Mitsubishi BD2G Questions

[JimInOz]

Bd2g

Hi Bubba,
You might have steering disc wear & will likely need to replace the discs.
Some people think it's a pain to do...but after working on Massey & JD machines,I think Mitsubishi are easy to work on.
I will get back to you with a Personal Message about the 500 parts.


Jim

 

[ellrod]

Thanks Jim I am going to order the book tonight from somewhere.. I will check outthe place you told me about but cheapest I have found them so far is apx.$90. They sure are proud of their books. I am afraid to try to order a part, If the books cost that much wonder what a real part would cost

PS: I have decided that on this hillside & in the rocks these swamp track or what ever they are called is about as handy as a headlight on a hog. "4 legged kind"

 

[crshifty]

Manuals

Get a hold of dave@rhineequipment.com. He will get back to you fairly quick. He is highly knowledgable on parts for the mitsu dozers. It's alot easier for him to quote you a price once he has the part numbers. I have had nothing but exceptional service from Rhine.... If they don't have the part, it's because Japan will have to make it for you.... He has had all the parts I ever needed. The manuals may be a little on the expensive side, but it's for the same reason a divorce is expensive.....'cause it's worth it!!! :drinkup Hope this helps...

Thanks Jim I am going to order the book tonight from somewhere.. I will check outthe place you told me about but cheapest I have found them so far is apx.$90. They sure are proud of their books. I am afraid to try to order a part, If the books cost that much wonder what a real part would cost

PS: I have decided that on this hillside & in the rocks these swamp track or what ever they are called is about as handy as a headlight on a hog. "4 legged kind"

 

[ellrod]

I did just that and they are some nice fellows and Dave answered every question I had. I have the book coming and thinking about more toys. I finally got the pirimid tracks in loose dirt and they are bad-to-the-bone I can take it where a goat cant walk and they work well. I pushed out a few stumps pointed up the hill ! and I have never been able to do that with normal tracks. I will have the cage finished this weekend with luck and then call a family reunion to help me put it on. I will put you a picture in your email when I finish but you can bet it won't be pretty but I hope not to be slapped clean out of the seat any more.
Thank for info.
Bubba

 

[ellrod]

Noise !

I got the book for the BD2G II and it's loaded with info but I cant find where to check the grease on the final drive and don't know how much it takes. This thing is getting noiser every day I use it. So far I have about 15 hours on it and I can tell a big differance just since I got it. Can somebody shed a little light here. I read that you should take the drain plug out and check for water, sand, or what ever might be there but I can not find where to do that. It get's noiser every time I use it. I have replaced 4 rollers & all looks good below (I think) I have checked the gear oil in the remaining rollers and it leaks out when plug is removed so I guess it has some in it. I did find a tool (that I dont have) to put gear lube in the front idlers and would like to know where I might find it & the pump that you use with it If it is needed for normal maintenance.

Fellows Thanks for the education on BD2G. Without advice from Jim I would be sitting here scratching my head :Banghead

 

[reddog848]

Bubba
You don't need that pump and stuff for the idlers, just use 90wt gear oil and remove th plug from the idler. Use any small type hose that will fit the oil bottle and hold it (push) it hard against the opening and squeeze the bottle. It is pretty easy when you get the hang of it. There is NO grease in the finals... it also uses 90 wt gear oil. Remove the big plug at the top of the final case with a 3/4 in breaker bar...remove the lower plug and when oil comes out the lower one that's it. I use lucas oil stabilizer in ALL of the oils in my BD2G and never had any wear signs or problems. It will also quieten it down if you haven't worn them out by running them dry. Ask Jay at Rhine equip or call Kent at Hughs Equip here in Tx.. 903-639-2765. The drain plugs are small plugs underneath the Hydraulic tank just below the clutch section. All those do is check for water etc. in the clutch housing, nothing to do with the finals.
Hope this helps,
Fred
reddog848

 

[ellrod]

reddog thanks to you, Jim & Dave St. Range rhineequipment.com I have had an education here on the forums on the BD2G II. I know some of the questions I have ask here on the forums had look real dumb to a veteran but I didn't know. Jim just told me today what it took to get the plugs out of the housing and when I looked at it I could see & boy did I feel dumb :Banghead After bending my 5 year old never been used 3/4 inch drive Harbour Freight power handle I got the top plug out and all looked real good. Really looked new ? I did notice when I got the plug ready to come out I could hear air come out of it ? does these things have any vents I should know about or in that natural. Unit was cool, I moved it apx 300 feet to where I checked it. anyway I would like to thank all you fellows for all the help especially Jim:notworthy I know he hates to open his mail up for fear of a stupid question from me and he is to nice of a fellow not to reply & Dave at Rhieequipment is a walking parts book with a really good attitude, if not he would have put a hit out on me by now. Anyway Thanks to all for the education

Bubba
AKA:ellrod

 

[reddog848]

Hey Bubba, Glad it looks better for you. I'm not really sure about the air vent on the finals, my book doesn't seem to show any and I never heard air from mine but thats not to say you should have it or not. I hope you try the Lucas oil stuff, really saves those gears and your engine.
Anyway back to dozin for fun!!

 

[ellrod]

I have been a Lucas fan for a long time
I guess the next thing I will do is throw away the SWAMP PADS :bash I had it in a bind just a while ago and the noise it made was REAL BAD and it all came from the tracks. All looks good, I just checked the rollers again to make sure and all was well ? I was lodged on a hillside on a LARGE rock & against a little tree and I was worried I was going to leave a track there I got it back to the garage now and with any luck I might start on the brush cage tomorrow. Monday I start calling to see who has pads and where they are at. Dave at rhineequipment had a good price & in stock but shipping will kill you from NY to Tennessee but if I cant find something local I can drive to pick up I will be calling Dave again.
Thanks again
Have a good weekend
Bubba

 

[reddog848]

track noise

:Banghead,Bubba, if the noise is from the tracks, stand about 10ft back from the side of dozer and look closley at the rails, you will most likely see one or more links at an elevated position. Reason is that sometimes one or more of the links are in a bind or stuck. Mine does that quite often and I use a 16lb and some spray lube to get it to release. sometimes it take heat to do it. I asked Kent about it and he said it is common with dozers that have sat for a while and it will usualy free up the more you use it. Mine takes spells and will be free for a while and then do it again. Most times it scares the crap out of you when it makes a load bang and sudden popping sound, you tend to think "I broke it" but no, it's OK, it just released the links back to normal. Call Kent in Hughs Spring, Tx and I bet he can get you pads a lot cheaper and closer to you. Most of the suppliers ship from their location straight to you and not the dealer. His # again is 903-639-2765.
Hope some of this helps.
Fred
reddog848:bash:bash

 

[ellrod]

More good info

Thanks Fred, I will add this number to my list of parts people. I will give him a call tomorrow. The noise I heard was bad ! and right after I was slapped in the back of the head by a sapling and thought I was shot I look like I have been in a ax fight and didn't bring the ax. I took the cage on the old IH 500c fro granted and knew it protected me from many near killings but I didn't realize how many times it saved me from brush & junk you never see.

ALSO I have a button on the right side of the BD2G II under rubber cover by the blade and I have no idea what it is I have had no luck finding a owners manual for this thing so I will just keep asking stupid questions till I get it all figured out i guess I love the little dozer the only problem I see is it has about a foot or more blade and 1900 lbs lighter than the 500C. Little harder to get around in a tight place in the mountians.
Thanks again for guidance on this thing, without you'all and this forum I would be walking around scratching my head wondering what I was going to break next.

Time to go see what my dog broke last night.. I was working on the dozer last night and locked my Airdale (60 lb dog) up when I left. Wife let her out this morning and I have been afraid to look but it's time to check for damage.

Have a good day * thanks again

Bubba

 

[reddog848]

rubber covered button

Bubba that is the horn button. The only stupid question is the one not asked!!! We've all been there,we just need to help each other as best we can. I got my books from Jay at Rhine equip. he had to order them from Mitsubishi and they sent them direct to me. If I did it over I would just get the service book, the operator manual is mostly duplicate and not near as comprehensive.

 

[ellrod]

HA HA HA HA HA A HORN ?? Does yours work and where is it located.
I would have never guess a horn. As soon as I get a chance I am going to add a manual oil & amp guage. The light stays on but I think it is charging, I have operated it for 3 or 4 hours with the lights on & most people have told me that is common for them and I never liked a oil light. I have not had the dash apart or even looked to see what it takes to get it apart but when I get all the other little bugs out I will get around to it. AFTER I build the cage.

I was looking at the track adjustment again and is it just me or does that look a little tight :beatsme I thought they should have more slack that what the book says.
Thanks again Fred

Bubba

 

[reddog848]

The horn is under the hood next to the fiewall.Mine works, and all the guages work, it only had 1200 hours when I got it. You can use a volt meter at the batteries to see if it IS charging...you should see about 26 to 28 volts when running..it is a 24 volt system. The tracks shouls have a min of 1 1/2 in of slack at the top and bet to run a little more at 2 in of drop. I like the 2in drop to save on rail wear and turning ability. To put slack in them just loosen the grease zerk until some air and grease starts to come ou.. you may have to move the dozer some but be sure to re-check them and if you have to.....put some more grease in till you get the right amount of slack. Bet that stops your noise.
Good luck,
Fred

 

[ellrod]

After jim told me where the grease fittings were I had the rest under controll. On this hillside I keep them a little tight cause I get into some pretty bad places once in a while but if I was reading the book right they want them tighter than I do. The measurement you gave is that the dip from the top roller to front idler ? if so thats about what I have now.
Thanks again for all the info
I need to go to work :Banghead as bad as I hate to.
Have a good day.
Bubba

 

[reddog848]

I look at the sag at any place before OR after the top carrier roller, it just depends whether you have tension from forward or reverse movement. Even on the hillsides,I would run them a little slack, it puts too much bind on the links if you don't. If your sprocket and rollers are good, you won't ever slip a track. If not.....you know what happens...no, no..
Fred

 

[ellrod]

new pads

Well I got the pads from Dave & Bolts & rollers from HeavyQuip here in knoxville & after a fire, some lost skin & and many words that I can't repeate I now have a BD2G II that looks somewhat like a dozer. Now you could slip up on a Indian before he knew you was there it's so quiet. All I need to do is cure the steering clutches and I should get some service out of this thing. The clutches will get me by for a while I hope but the cage is the next thing to get built. I love this little unit but by the time I get it right I will have 18K in a 12K machine but look at the education I have got from it ONLY thing I dred is trying to remove a blot ! every thing you try to turn breaks off. Do you know of anything that might help that. I twisted one of the bolts off the arm that holds the blade to the frame cause it looked loose ointhead I looked at the other side and they look the same way but I don't dare put a wrench on them. Did the same on roller bolts, but with time & care you can use a torch and clear the bolt & leave the track frame. Don't think that will work that good for the blade arm ( or whatever it's called). Anyway thanks for the education and I will post a pix. of a true Hillbilly BD2G II w/ homade brush cage as soon as I get it finished.

Bubba

 

[brous_5]

Anyone know where I can get some steel track shoes for my BD2G?

 

[ellrod]

dave@rhineequipment.com
Just ordered a pump part month or so ago. They were getting out of the Mitsi parts business so you might want to hurry that part up. Anything he don't have he can get but it's a long way to China
dave at rhineequipment is one of the more knowledge people I have dealed with and a killer sense of humor :-0


HeavyQuip can beat the price on bolts and if you have one close you don't pay shipping. Look up HeavyQuip.com and see where the nearest one is to you.

 

[brous_5]

thanks ellrod. I'll check them out and let you know how it goes.