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L90D fuel pump timing

JakeHarrington

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Joined
Oct 5, 2016
Messages
77
Location
Long Island NY
i have to send out my injection pump for some work.
I know i need to put the motor and pump back in time when installing the pump.
Also know that im supposed to have this position indicator timing light position tool from volvo to do this aswell. I dont have this tool and im not spending 780 bucks to buy it for one time use either.
Does anyone have any advice on installing this pump? I havent removed it from the machine yet and i dont plan on removing it until im sure i can reinstall it.
As of right now my only option is having my local dealer taking the service truck out and charging me $175 for 3-6hrs just to put the pump in time. And that sounds alittle unreasonable if you ask me.

Any tips and tricks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
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Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
YOU SIR, are in luck.. I just happen to know a guy that does them for a living and he would be HAPPY to help you out..
Look between the pump and the governor and you'll see a cap.. just below the shut off.
Remove that big cap and rotate the engine over BY HAND, until you see the pointer inside the hole, come DEAD CENTER of that hole.. & STOP.
Once you get the cap off, there will probably be a timing pointer in it, turned backwards so it doesn't interfere w/ anything..
Just put the timing pin in the hole to capture the pointer.. it goes side ways.. NOT up & down..
You'll probably have to rock the engine back & forth to seat it properly.. GO SLOW..
DONT BREAK IT.. ITS PLASTIC. once its seated, pull it back out and go thru the front and remove the gear..
IF you think the engine turned while removing the nut from the pump.. go back and do the pointer thing again..
The key is to get the pointer in the window, dead center..
You can tell your getting close, by removing the BIG 12mm allan plug on the side of the pump.. up by the mounting flange..
That sucker is tight, so rap it w/ a brass drift and hammer 1st.. then take it out..
The tappet will start to come UP when your getting close..
MAKE SURE your turning the engine in the normal direction of rotation BEFORE you start.. just hit the starter and have someone watch the balancer/ front of the engine.
You can send me a private msg if you run into problems..
 

Ben Witter

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Apr 3, 2013
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263
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On the outside
Are you saying $175 for 3-6 hrs of work or $175@hr for 3-6 hrs of work? $175 for 3-6 hrs would be one heck of a bargain. $175@hr. is normal rate for the area you are in.

The pump is driven by a coupler so if only remove the 2 bolts and don't disturb the adjustable hub and you will be very close on timing. As stated above there is a pointer/timing mark on the wheel inside the cap, it has 2 bolts to remove it. This needs to be centered when timing.
Remove the cover on the flywheel inspection hole below the spot where you bar the engine over. Bring the engine up to 13 degrees BTDC and check the timing mark on the pump. If it is centered it is good enough. If off loosen the coupling clamping bolt (there should be a lock over it) and rotate the coupling only in the direction opposite to normal rotation. If you need to go in the direction of rotation for further and then rotate back to adjust. This is to take up the backlash in the gears.
Spin the engine back a quarter of a turn, bar the engine up to 13 degrees and recheck the adjustment. Continue until correct.

If you get in above your head call the dealer.
 

Ben Witter

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Apr 3, 2013
Messages
263
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On the outside
Yes sorry pump guy is correct. I made a typo and copied when typing in the line right below "2 bolts".
Below is an image of what you will see on the pump and what the timing tool looks like.

Also depending on which engine you have it could have a coupler or be bolted to the timing gear case and require adjustment at the drive gear.

upload_2017-2-6_9-10-17.png
 
Last edited:

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Messages
7,523
Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
No problem.. You WOULD NOT BELIEVE how many pumps come in w/ the timing flange removed.!!!!
All you need is a cresent wrench to remove the cap or an 8mm allen wrench.. but somehow these "mechanics" find a chisel & hammer..?? Lol and spend 15 minutes beating on headless screws.. go figure..
OH, some Volvo application pumps HAVE a plastic pointer tool in the cap and others don't.. only way to find out is, pull the cap.
 

JakeHarrington

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Joined
Oct 5, 2016
Messages
77
Location
Long Island NY
Alright you guys are awesome. ill be giving this a try probably not till Friday morning. It doesn't sound all that tough as long as i follow all of pump guy's instructions.
thank you and i will keep you updated on how it all goes.
 

thepumpguysc

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Messages
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
If you know anyone at Mack or JD, they use the same set-up.. and maybe you could borrow the tool.
The fuel shop might let you borrow 1, if your bringing the pump to them..
Its called an "A-B lite" to set the timing pointer..
 

AllDodge

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Apr 2, 2011
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2,305
Location
Kentucky
The injection pump service company may also loan the tools. Diesel Injection service is a good source
 

JakeHarrington

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Oct 5, 2016
Messages
77
Location
Long Island NY
So i have the pump turned to where the pointer is at the dead center of that hole. I have all the lines and cables removed. Now all i need to do is remove the three bolts that hold the pump on the motor and the timing gear.
For the gear there is a big 30mm nut in the center of the pump on the shaft. Thats has to come off obviously. But there is a plate around that 30mm nut that has five like 14mm bolts through it. Do i remove that plate?

Am i missing anything else? Is there a way to pin the motor so i cant move it from 13 btdc?

Really appreciate all the help guys.
 

thepumpguysc

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Mar 18, 2010
Messages
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
The timing of the engine is most important.. then you can loosen the bolts in the plate and remove the pump..
The 5 bolts are in a slot and that's how you set the pump timing..
SO>> get the engine on the correct degrees and then remove the 5 bolts and the pump..
I hope that makes sense..
I don't know what the engine timing is SUPPOSED TO BE.. it should be on a sticker on the pump or valve cover.
Once you have it on the correct *'s, your not gonna move the engine by just using a ratchet to loosen the bolts..
BEFORE you remove ANY BOLTS in the gear.. use a marker to mark the 2 gears where they mate.. just for a starting point when reassembling it..
 

Ben Witter

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Apr 3, 2013
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263
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On the outside
You only need to remove the 5 bolts that fasten the gear to the hub. It should come apart then. As long as you do not rotate the engine you should be fine. Reinstall the pump with timing mark centered. Timing spec is 13 degrees BTDC. After you tighten the pump flange mounting bolts and the gear to hub bolts back the engine up 90 degrees and double check your setting.
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
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Messages
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Location
Sunny South Carolina
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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
The more I think about it, the more I question the procedure..
I don't recall getting that pump in for repair w/ a BIG drive hub..?? a small one, yes.. the "images" on google look right..
But I'm second guessing myself now..
Your not gonna mess anything up if you do it wrong.. you have the pump & the engine timed already, so go for it..
IF it doesn't work out the way we said, all you did was added a couple of steps to the process..
Sorry for the confusion but that happens sometimes when your 2000 miles away from the jobsite.. lol
 

JakeHarrington

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Oct 5, 2016
Messages
77
Location
Long Island NY
Alright so everything came off great just like you guys explained and now i totally understand the timing of this motor and pump. Really alot easier then the volvo books makes it seem. Actually probably my favorite setup ive come across especially with the fly wheel inspection hole and the timing degrees.
The latch that goes to smoke eliminator and the governor is cracked. So i had to get it from my pump guy and im welding it tomorrow and hopefully the pump is back in the machine Saturday.

Im welding up this piece rather then buying the new part because apparently it's unavailable. I have the bosch part number but left it in my truck. So ill post that later to see if anyone has a lead on where to buy one.

Really appreciate all the help guys it has been great
 
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