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John Deere 450C

Claus

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2013
Messages
41
Location
Hebron In
This week I bought a Deere 450C Track Loader. It has a 4 in 1 bucket. Unit is clean and in good shape. I'm cleaning up fence rows so I will be pushing hedge, brush, small trees, etc. The ROPS has been off of it, probably for years. The ROPS must have been laying upside down, filled with rain water and froze because it has some nasty cracks in it. I know somebody will jump up and down and yell you can't weld on a ROPS so before I go there how easy is it to find a good used one? Mine is the kind that mounts above the dash.

Also did any 450's have both a 4 in 1 bucket and a ripper?

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Hobbytime

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2016
Messages
709
Location
usa
Nice looking unit, would you say what you paid for it? I have a JD 355 track loader, its works pretty good with moving dirt and stuff around, the best option is the 4 way bucket...the tracks on yours are a bit tight and should be loosened slightly..
 

Hobbytime

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2016
Messages
709
Location
usa
I bought the full manual on mine on cd about a year ago for very reasonable , I think it was just $60.00..ill try and find the place I ordered it from, I have it book marked somewhere...but I did a google search to find it..
found it https://www.epcatalogs.com/john-dee...ler-bulldozer-loader-tm1115-technical-manual/
just search for your model if they have it... here is your model https://www.epcatalogs.com/john-deere-450c-crawler-tm-1102-technical-manual-pdf/ its 656 pages long on cd
they may have more manuals , just search their sight..this one is $60.00 on cd and or they give a down load link..then I made a few cds as not to lose it..

I think the ROPS you have is very salvageable, bring it to a qualified welder and they can replace the damaged areas and weld in new pipe of proper strength, it might cost a few bucks, but so is your life worth spending it on, especially pushing trees, too many widow makers can fall from way up or if some wind takes the tree back at you..dont cheap out in this area, your life isnt worth it, if your lucky you get killed and dont live like a cripple or worse...im sure many will tell you to do the same..do it...dont risk it over a few bucks in the big picture of expenses..I have the same looking ROPS..it also makes a great place to mount lights, fire extinguisher and keep the weather off of you rain/sun...
 
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crane operator

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
8,320
Location
sw missouri
I know somebody will jump up and down and yell you can't weld on a ROPS

You can weld on a ROPS. Just don't expect a MSHA inspector to pass it, or employees to run it (OSHA). If its your own track loader, on your own property, run only by you, no one can say anything about it.

If I was pushing trees over, a rewelded rops would be better than no ROPS.
 

Claus

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2013
Messages
41
Location
Hebron In
You can weld on a ROPS. Just don't expect a MSHA inspector to pass it, or employees to run it (OSHA). If its your own track loader, on your own property, run only by you, no one can say anything about it.

If I was pushing trees over, a rewelded rops would be better than no ROPS.
This is my thoughts and I plan on having it welded by a qualified welder if I can't find another one but didn't want to get into an argument with some Jack Wagon.

Thanks.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
Messages
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Location
Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
Considering I constructed my own until I got my donor with a welder made unit on it that will eventually go on my machine I would have little issue welding on that one until I could find a replacement NOT freeze split. Most are not called for as to saving a life many are just Sun and tree limb shades but on that one chance occasion I would want a good solid unit to save my bacon. And you can scoff or decline but I added a seatbelt in mine on reference to a local excavator that died being thrown out of a dozer where the ROPS crushed him.
 

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,534
Location
Canada
There were a lot of 450C's so finding a used ROPS shouldn't be too hard. Find a dealer who is part of the used parts network. They have a listing of who has what in their used departments. Be careful working around tree's with a 4 in 1 bucket. Tree branches are great at finding and destroying the hyd. lines on a 4 in 1, metal and rubber! I'm sure you could get hyd's for a 4 in 1 and ripper. You might find the valve for that and ripper too.
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
Messages
4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
The 455D I had with 4n1 bucket came with the plumbing and control for a ripper. Not sure if it was an option on a 450C but I would think so. I would definitely use a seat belt with a canopy. I am one lucky person that knows that.
 

CavinJim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
170
Location
Missouri
Your ROPS is like mine on a JD 350--they look identical from your photos, though mine doesn't have the splits (astounding that it doesn't!). The front of these attach with a 5/8" bolt (if I remember correctly). I almost hesitate to call them a ROPS the way they are attached--though something is better than nothing! If I recall, the shear strength of a 5/8 gr 8 is about 30,000 lbs. Considering your machine with a 4:1 is pushing 20K, it doesn't take much of an impact on a roll-over to shear a bolt. I consider mine to be more of a branch shield than anything (and it works well at that). All things considered, a good weld on the split and that pipe won't be the weakest link. Use grade 8 bolts on the front two points (I'd go Gr 8 all the way 'round).
 

Welder Dave

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Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,534
Location
Canada
There are 4 bolts at the back of ROPS too. I think a 450 will have a bigger ROPS than a 350/355. Maybe someone with JD experience will know?
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
Thanks for all the comments!

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If I remember right the bucket open feature is controlled by the upper lever in the last picture. You could easily plumb a ripper by installing Tees in the circuit at the control that controls the 4in1 bucket. Then it is a simple as disconnecting the quick connects at the bucket and use the control to raise or lower the ripper. Or add a power beyond single valve control in the feed line going to the bucket open/close control. Mine had a third lever in a slot next to the armrest that fed the rear quick couplers. It had no knob, just a 1/4" X 3/4" or so bar stock with a smooth rounded top so the hyd. oil tank access cover would still hinge open. Easy to feel which lever you were touching.
 

hetkind

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2015
Messages
472
Location
Unicoi, TN
I have the 450B with a Drott 4-in-1, and the 9300 hoe. I would love to find a ROPS for it...and your ROPS is repairable, and to repair to original design strength should not be a problem for a qualified welder. Note qualified and NOT certified. Mine has six teeth and not seven teeth, and to get the 4 in 1 working properly has been an adventure...hoses, rebuilt cylinders, and finally today, dismantlement for the relief valve.

Best of luck.

Howard
 

Claus

Active Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2013
Messages
41
Location
Hebron In
I have the 450B with a Drott 4-in-1, and the 9300 hoe. I would love to find a ROPS for it...and your ROPS is repairable, and to repair to original design strength should not be a problem for a qualified welder. Note qualified and NOT certified. Mine has six teeth and not seven teeth, and to get the 4 in 1 working properly has been an adventure...hoses, rebuilt cylinders, and finally today, dismantlement for the relief valve.

Best of luck.

Howard

I dropped the ROPS off last week to a very qualified welder/fabricator. After that I found a place to take it to have the ROPS sandblasted and powder coated. Can't wait to get it back in shape and over my head. Thanks!
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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Location
Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
One thing to remember on a John Deere crawler loader with a 4n1 when you have the lip open to use it as a blade drop the loader all the way down and rest it on the stops. That stiffens the loader and reduces greatly the cylinder stress while holding the loader stable. To adjust your cut you simply tip the bucket forward or back a bit to lower or raise the cutting edge on the back section of the bucket. It should have a page telling about it in the operators manual. You will be surprised how nice it will cut grade that way.
 
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