How do you adjust the steering brake on a D4E

[Nitelite]

I ran the dozer with the parking brake on, yep, stupid thing to do. Now I need to adjust the right steering brake band on the D4E. It is a direct drive. Does anyone know the adjustment procedure.
Thanks

 

[D6 Merv]

Normally you remove the approx. 4" square plate on back of the steering clutch case cover and use a 1 inch socket and extension to tighten the nut then back it off 9 clicks.
BUT in your case I think you might find this covers blocked by the winch. Which makes it abit harder you have to take the top cover off under the fuel tank; about 6 inchs square [is 1 cover ontop of another; u only need the top piece] and use a ring spanner to tighten then back off. Don't drop spanner torch will help too
D4E brakes can be abit touchy to adjust right. they don,t take much to 'wind themselves on' if adjusted too tight. Check the oil level too.
Best you find yourself a operations and maintence manuel. Will explain how to do a lot of things. Sounds like you have a lot of learning to do and if you have to pay someone to fix everything your learning curve will be expensive !!
Mine

 

[Brainzie]

Theres not to many long track frmae D4`s over here is there Merv ?

 

[D6 Merv]

Hi Phil
Was a few of the later ones came here with 6 roller frames and 2 carrier rollers [earlier 6 roller ones only had one] with the 80hp direct injection engine. [ earlier PC engine was 75 hp] The 6 roller frame was a option over the standard 5. Mine was originally NZFS new in 83 very first of the DI engines. Interestingly NZ army got the very last 3 Japanese ones built too. think they finished about 86.

 

[Nitelite]

My dozier pictures

Here are the pictures of my ( new to me) D4E. I need to adjust the steering brake band due to my driving with the parking brake on.

View #1


View #2


looking at the winch


View looking over the winch spool, note the two plates bolted to right and left. They are bolted on with four bolts each.


Inserting my camera farther in and panning you can see more of the plates, now you see that they are bolted on with four bolts each. If I remove the right plate can I then, through that opening, get access to the right brake band adjuster?


I have also been told by an old operator to remove the seat, that the adjuster was accessible through a plate located under the seat. Help!

 

[D6 Merv]

Dzr looks tidy nitelite Looks to be on 18" shoes too that will make it a lot better in softer ground and more stable too. Don,t know why someone has welded abit of bar on the drum for the rope ??? Be a pain to try and wind rope on properly. Once ropes on one wind and tight ferrule won,t come out.
Yep that's the cover to adjust brakes, I just an,t too sure you,ll get in there to adjust the brakes. If you get cover off look inside and you will see adjuster nut. Yes your mates right about removing seat then cover under seat and you will see the cover I talked about earlier. [its above the small cover in your pic also] So is 2 different holes you can get access through to adjust brakes. Top hole is also for adjusting steering clutchs.
Before you get too keen on pushing dirt; go over the machine and check all the fluid levels; even change them and the filters if you don,t know how old everything is. Definetly do fuel filter if nothing else; most U.S. dozers had what cat called a sleeve metering fuel pump and they are very expensive to repair if they get water in them [ and they don,t need much water either] the earlier scroll pump was much better. Also final drives can be weak if not looked after [both in $ and time and work to repair] Get that lubrication and maintence guide.
Winch is a Hyster D4E very robust and strong. Don,t run anything lighter than 3/4 rope will snap anything less without too much effort, plus bigger rope spools a lot easier. Won,t be any info about it in the cat book, But you can download a book for free from Allied winch [they bought hyster] look under early manuels.
cheers merv :drinkup

 

[Nitelite]

Brake adjusted and a lesson learned.

Actually it sits on 20"shoes.

Merv, I did take the seat off and cleaned and lubricated everything that moves under there. All of the seat adjustments were froze from lack of use and lack of lubrication. I also learned a lot about the dozer in the process. I was able to gain access to the brake adjuster through the rear inspection plate despite the winch. Just as Merv said, It took a one inch socket. Because of the winch I had to use a wobble socket and the angle was about 15 degrees. Before I stuck my socket in the housing I tied a heavy string to it just in case that I dropped the socket off of the extension. Just as Merv instructed, I tightened the nut and then backed off 9 clicks. The right pedal is now at normal height and engages the brake at a the same place as the left side.

I ordered a owners & maintenance manual. I will educate myself and become more familiar with the machine before I push dirt.

 

[D6 Merv]

Good to hear you,ve got her all sorted nitelite; 20" shoes be even better on softer ground, mine has 18s but 20s would be better; maybe next time when they wear out. I took the easy option and welded grouser bar on my worn pads. !
The handbrake 'should' lock down both pedals but know mine don,t do this always, and am very carefull if I have to park on a slope to change the angle of my blade.
The beauty of D4E/D is that they are fairly simple and rugged and can be 'rebuilt' esp like yours with gear drive nothing to go wrong and fuel efficient too. Powershift will eat almost double the diesel, but will move more dirt and is easier on the man in the seat. But abit of exercise pulling real levers will keep you fitter too; unlike this stuff :drinkup but I need it to keep me sane !!
The 3 winch levers nitelite. right one is Fwd Neutral Reverse with Fwd being to the REAR. middle lever is your brake, just like a drum brake in a light truck. outer one is drum disconnect for freewheeling cable out by hand. Fwd is engaged, backward is freewheel.
Have fun, and some more pics when its dirty.
cheers Merv

 

[Motat]

I has same problem adjusting brakes on one I had because of winch.
I was able take off access plate adjust brake etc ,but could never get the 3/8 bolts back in behind winch.
I welded a nut to a short length of plate ,loose screwed bolt into nut,then fed it over bolt holes,then undid bolt till it contacted winch ,thus pushing cover plate where 2 bolts missing.
This was not alway succesfull as often leaked oil.
No dought smart buggers like Merv can get those bloody bolts back in.
PS Those Wet brakes in E and late D models are great and under normal use hardly ever need adjusting.
However a pain if you brake a band as I did once.Have to lift both steering clutches and bevel gear out from above,and etc etc etc
Regards

 

[Nitelite]

Motat, I had no problem at all removing and replacing the 3/8 bolts behind the winch. I took the seat off first, to see if I might come out better going through the top access. The seat adjustment levers and tracks were froze from lack of use. The seat needs to slide forward to access the two rear seat mounting bolts. Now that really created a problem and cost a lot of time. No problem replacing the seat as I freed up all adjustments before putting it back in place. The seat is in really good shape and it even bounces now, as it now absorbs shock.

 

[ZEPP]

Is there a way to adjust the steering clutch levers as well?
I adjusted my brakes just as instructed here. The left brake still seems to have an slight catch or bump to it at the bottom though.
Also the steering levers do not do anything. I have to steer with only the brake pedals.

 

[DMiller]

Probably find the only times the hand clutch levers do much is in a hard pull/push or climbing grade. Clutches do not always fully retract for release so as noticeable in general use.

Nice looking unit, have one similar at a weld shop east of here getting some much needed work done to the blade system and hydraulics cylinders.

 

[ZEPP]

Okay thanks. I thought I was good just to adjust the brakes till I read the operations manual. It said the clutch levers provided small input steering and the brakes for sharper steering. I thought I might have an issue.