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Hitachi EX60URG -Identification of component.

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
I still have some electrical problems on this machine. After the problems in the posts above, I decided to replace all wiring on the lights. So now the lights are connected directly to the battery with a separate fuse and switch. And no longer to the fusebox inside the cab. I also replaced the grounds that were connected on each lights bracket, and made a new cable connected to the main ground behind the batteries. Now i can run all lightning, wiper, and heater together with out problems, as long as there is power on the batteries.
But the batteries are not charging, so i think maybe i have to replace the alternator.

Does anyone know wat kind of alternator that is fitted on this machine? Maybe someone has a part number i can use to find it?
Also i would need a tip how to meassure if the alternator is broken or not. Where can i connect the multimeter to check this? (As you see i'm not really an electrical genius...)
 

ycs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Messages
61
Location
malaysia
I still have some electrical problems on this machine. After the problems in the posts above, I decided to replace all wiring on the lights. So now the lights are connected directly to the battery with a separate fuse and switch. And no longer to the fusebox inside the cab. I also replaced the grounds that were connected on each lights bracket, and made a new cable connected to the main ground behind the batteries. Now i can run all lightning, wiper, and heater together with out problems, as long as there is power on the batteries.
But the batteries are not charging, so i think maybe i have to replace the alternator.

Does anyone know wat kind of alternator that is fitted on this machine? Maybe someone has a part number i can use to find it?
Also i would need a tip how to meassure if the alternator is broken or not. Where can i connect the multimeter to check this? (As you see i'm not really an electrical genius...)
Nissan or isuzu engine? If nissan just look for nissan fd33 alternator-
23100-90068
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
My machine has the Isuzu 4JB1 engine i think. But i seem to find different alternators when i search on this engine..
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
I'm not really sure how to do that. I don't really have any mechanical experience at all, and especially not when it comes to electrical components... :(
 

thepumpguysc

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2010
Messages
7,518
Location
Sunny South Carolina
Occupation
Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Altern. are pretty easy.. Just watch a couple of utube videos..
between a few special tools, {torx bits & a cheap multimeter maybe} & some inexpensive parts.. it'll pay for itself.
Alt.=$125.00>> fixing it yourself=priceless.
 

ycs

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2012
Messages
61
Location
malaysia
I'm not really sure how to do that. I don't really have any mechanical experience at all, and especially not when it comes to electrical components... :(
Hai again, pls look for this hitachi parts..

HITACHI LR220-24 or LR220-23
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
Thank you for that part number! :) It was exacly what i needed.

Anyone know a number or something for the exhaust Muffler/Silencer Box on EX60URG?
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
Forget the last question, i found it. :)

But back to the alternator! I have purchased the alternator, and everything seems to be exacly the same as the original one, except one single cable coming out of the original alternator.
I am wondering if this is something that i can connect myself on the new alternator?
After opening the old alternator it seems that this cable is twinned around three copper-threads inside the alternator. Can i just find three random threads and connect it on the new alternator?
Or is there somewhere else i can connect this cable? And what is it actually for?

The cable i am talking about is the one inside the red ring.
DSC_0668a.jpg
Inside the old alternator it looks like this:
DSC_0668a.jpg
Although some of the wiring broke of when i opened the old alternator...

Is there anyone that can help me with this one?
 

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CatKC

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
230
Location
North MO
Forget the last question, i found it. :)

But back to the alternator! I have purchased the alternator, and everything seems to be exacly the same as the original one, except one single cable coming out of the original alternator.
I am wondering if this is something that i can connect myself on the new alternator?
After opening the old alternator it seems that this cable is twinned around three copper-threads inside the alternator. Can i just find three random threads and connect it on the new alternator?
Or is there somewhere else i can connect this cable? And what is it actually for?

Is there anyone that can help me with this one?

I am not familiar with your equipment but as far as -alternators- go, the wire you refer to is connected to the FIELD COILS. Commonly such a wire is either used for an external regulator or a charge indicator/gauge. If you do not have such a wire on the NEW alternator, -something- will not work. No, there is no way of connecting one internally on the new alternator and making it work. I would guess that you have an incorrect alternator.
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
Thanks for your answer.
The New alternator fits to the same parts-number as the original one. It also looks exacly the same except that one cable. There is a hole in the New alternator where the cable should have come out. On the side of the hole the letter "P" is printed. What does "P" stand for?
Right now i have no other option that trying to make it work with the new alternator...
 

GregsHD

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Sep 26, 2014
Messages
557
Location
Mahood Falls, BC
Occupation
Self Employed HD Mechanic
The P terminal stands for Phase or Pulse, It's used for either a tachometer or hour meter, since your machine is basically a dash 1 it will not be used, hour meter is run off an oil pressure switch on the engine.

I bet if you follow that wire it will go nowhere, my 790D has this terminal on its alternator, at the nearest connection in the wiring harness it stopped, no pin/wire on the opposite side of the connector.

The field and voltage sense connection is in the plug with two wires.

If it charges and everything works, don't worry about it.
 

CatKC

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Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
230
Location
North MO
The P terminal stands for Phase or Pulse, It's used for either a tachometer or hour meter, since your machine is basically a dash 1 it will not be used, hour meter is run off an oil pressure switch on the engine.
I bet if you follow that wire it will go nowhere, my 790D has this terminal on its alternator, at the nearest connection in the wiring harness it stopped, no pin/wire on the opposite side of the connector.
The field and voltage sense connection is in the plug with two wires.
If it charges and everything works, don't worry about it.

Good that someone could help him.
As stated I know nothing about the equipment, only alternators, and responded to possibly help as no one else had responded.
I figured if I responded then perhaps someone would correct me and give a proper response.

Usually an alternator with four wires -requires- all four.
As it's a 'four wire' alternator, and as the connection had a 'fused' wire, it could go anywhere.
At least one field connection is required in order to 'excite' the alternator, the second one is 'tapped' to not include 'all fields', which is what this alternator had. Sometimes the 'tap' is for A/C. from the alternator.
 
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imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
Thanks for the help i am getting!
I have replaced the alternator, te ignition switch (As there was a bad connection in it) and i have replaced the batteries (As the old ones have been charged and emptied many times already)
But still no charging.. :(
After a day with measuring this is what i found:
- The alternator itself gives almost 30V (29,9) to the Voltmeter. So this indikates that it is working, right?
- Between plus on the alternator and ground on both batteries and chassis it shows about 30V
- But between alternator ground and battery plus, i get only 24V.
- Also ground and plus on batteries shows only 24V.
- Also the positive (+) connection between the alternator and starter-motor seems to be OK.
I have also checked and cleaned several ground points. So i think maybe the positive (+) connection between alternator and batteries stops somewhere.
Could it be the Battery Relay? (That i don't even know what is for?)
As it got dark i have not been able to measure on the Battery relay, but maybe someone knows what my next step can be?
 
Last edited:

CatKC

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Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
230
Location
North MO
Thanks for the help i am getting!
I have replaced the alternator, te ignition switch (As there was a bad connection in it) and i have replaced the batteries (As the old ones have been charged and emptied many times already)
But still no charging.. :(
Have you checked to see if the 'mystery wire' that -is not on- the 'new alternator' went anywhere ???
 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
probably haven't checked good enough as it disappears into a cable hose together with the rest of the cables... Have to check it more when I have time, probably not before next week.
In the mean time all tips and tricks are appreciated!
 

007

Senior Member
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Dec 28, 2016
Messages
282
Location
Australia
Just read the thread so will back track a little.
The wire coming out of the old alternator was a connection to what they call the star point in the stator windings.
Even though the alt is 24V the voltage when running at that wire will be Aprox 12V with respect to ground.
That wire can be used for many things but typically used as run indicator or start inhibit function.
In your case the alt is running but lost its connection to the battery.
It is almost certain to be blow fusible link in the wiring or the battery relay.
Typically the battery relay isolates the alt from the battery in the off state.
Below are three threads that i commented on which describes the same problems.
If you read these threads and still have a question i will try to help, cheers.

Hitachi EX60 URG need electrical diagram
Hitachi EX-60 issues - not charging
Hitachi EX200-2 Diodes

 

imcase

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Norway
Thanks for your answer!
I haven't had the time to read through all threads, but after some researching today I have maybe come up with one solution. But i am not sure if this solution will have any consequences for the rest of the electrical system on the machine...
What does the Battery relay actually do?
When i put a cable between the plus on alternator and the plus on the battery relay, the cable that goes to the battery, then it started charging. I got up to 28V on the batteries. So in theory, if I make a permanent cable between those points, the charging problem would be fixed, but could this affect the rest of te electrical system?
 

GregsHD

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Sep 26, 2014
Messages
557
Location
Mahood Falls, BC
Occupation
Self Employed HD Mechanic
There will be a fusible link in the alternator output wire coming off battery disconnect relay, plastc encased, 1/2" round, 2" long. It has large spade connectors under the rubber seals, check the connections then continuity of the fusible link.

Hard wiring the alternator without a fuse is a good way to start a fire. Also don't run the machine very long when the alternator isn't able to connect with the batteries, the field windings will overheat when the power has nowhere to go!
 

CatKC

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Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
230
Location
North MO
"So in theory, if I make a permanent cable between those points, the charging problem would be fixed, but could this affect the rest of te electrical system?"

As I have said I know nothing about your particular equipment but I know electronics and alternators, and I would not recommend that you do that.
Alternators 'require controls' as to -when- they can connect/disconnect and charge a battery and/or provide power to controls and instruments/gauges.
While you WILL charge the batteries, you MAY bypass a 'safety circuit' which protects other components from possible voltage/power surges.

I always enjoy figuring out how to bypass and eliminate/redesign the unnecessary things (KISS) but - usually - the design of electrical connections and components are REQUIRED for some specific reason(s).
 
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