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Hitachi EX60URG -Identification of component.

imcase

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Jul 2, 2017
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34
Location
Norway
Hi!

Is it possible anyone can tell me what I have taken a picture of on my Hitachi EX60URG.
It is located just in front of the air-filter, on the start of the pipe that takes the air to the engine. It has (or in this case:
should have) two cables connected to it. One cable has snapped of a while ago, and the other snapped of when I was
checking how to fix it. It seems not to be possible to connect the cables again, so i probably have to by a new one.

What is the function of this part?

DSC_0595.JPG
 

lantraxco

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Elsewhen
Somewhere in the cab you have a warning light for air filter restriction, that black plastic lump is the switch that turns it on when the air filter gets packed up with dirt and vacuum in the intake gets too high.
 

imcase

Active Member
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Jul 2, 2017
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Location
Norway
Thank you. This is not a big issue then considering that I have recently changed the air filter?

I have another question. (Sorry, i'm a total newbie when it comes to excavators)
Can anyone explain what the switches in my cab are for. I assume the "E-P" switch is something like Eco and Power, as the RPM on the engine goes down when pushing "E"
There are two toggle switches, what are they for?
There is also a grey round switch on the bottom of the display. It has a sticker besides it, but it is only possible to read "Stop" It should say something before that... Does anyone know what this is for?

Thanks for the help already.DSC_0598.JPG
 

GregsHD

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Those toggle switches are aftermarket, who knows what they control, you'd have to trace the wires. The grey button (buzzer stop) is to cancel the travel alarm (alarm was probably disconnected), there used to be a button in the hole under that toggle switch also, it was a fluid check (coolant/hyd)

And you are correct on the other switch, power mode gives you full throttle, economy limits to about half throttle.
 

imcase

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Location
Norway
Thank you for your answer.
Regarding the "E-P" Switch: when the engine runs at about half throttle, it really struggles when moving any hydraulic components. Is this normal, or is the Eco-mode only when the machine is not in use?

Also one question that comes to mind: I have changed the big hydraulic filter, but there should be a small one too. Where do I find the small one?
 

GregsHD

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You should be able to use the machine in Econo mode, might have to adjust the cylinder on the throttle linkage before the injection pump (on bracket for air filter?), I wouldn't mess with it unless you're really bored, easier to leave it on power and manually adjust the throttle to the desired speed.

Should be a pilot filter canister inline shortly after the pilot pump.
 
Last edited:

imcase

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Jul 2, 2017
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Location
Norway
Thank you again! I think I found the other filter, altough it was well hidden for a guy without any knowledge.

Is it possible you also know what kind of oil and what amount that goes into the slew motor?
I noticed there is very little oil on there now, only 1 or 2 millimeters on the dipstick. Should i drain the old oil and then refill with new, or is it ok just to fill it up to the right level?

I am struggling to find the right service manual for this Hitachi EX60URG, so i hope to get as much help as possible here untill i find one.
 

GregsHD

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Should be 80w90 gear oil in the swing drive (if it has a strong odor to it), make sure the machine is on flat ground when you check the level. Wouldn't hurt to drain and refill, only holds 2L or so IIRC?
 

imcase

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Jul 2, 2017
Messages
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Location
Norway
Thanks!
Do you know where I can tap the current oil? The only alternative I see is a small tube from almost at the bottom on the swing drive, aprox, 20cm long that goes to nothing and is plugged in the end.
Is the oil filled thru the hole where the dipstick is placed?

I really appreciate al this help! :)
 

GregsHD

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That tube at the bottom of the swing drive just above the flange is the drain ( arrow in the picture translated into "oil cooler piings"??) the fill plug (#40) is on the opposite side of the motor from the dipstick tube, should be a square head pipe plug. p10c-1-4_017-0.png
 

imcase

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Thanks! Found it and fixed it! :) I reckon I will get back here when I get more questions. Now i have changed all filters except the fuel filter, changed engine oil and oil in the swing drive. So i hope the machine wil work for many hours.
Do you have the procedure for how to change the fuel filter? How do I bleed the fuel system after changing?

Is there a chance that you have any kind of manual for the EX60URG?
 

GregsHD

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Once the new fuel filter is installed (you can pre fill it with filtered fuel if you wish but not necessary) There is a primer pump on the transfer pump (on side of inj pump). The knob unscrews then you can pump, once done push down and tighten.

The inj pump inlet banjo bolt (close to primer pump) has a bleeder screw in the centre, loosen a few turns to let the air escape. Pump away until bubble free fuel comes out the bleeder, snug the bleeder then pump a few more times.

Start the machine and run immediately at half to full throttle for a few minutes, shut off and check for leaks.

One more thing, on the bottom of the fuel tank there is a petcock with a plug in it, this drains any water etc from the bottom of the tank. Drain a Litre or so out every year into a clear container and check for contamination.

Sorry I don't have a manual, but these UR(G) machines are very close to a EX60-1 other than being harder to work on (zero tail swing)
 

imcase

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Thank you! I find it dificult also to find manuals for the EX60-1. Wherever I search 60-2 is the first to show up. If someone has a service manual for the EX60-1 i would be really interested in a copy.

Is the electronic system on this machine 12V or 24V?

After running the machine for a while, the display in the machine shows that the engine is very hot. The arrow is in the red area. Sometimes it takes 30 minutes, other times i can run it for hours.
I have checked the thermostat, and it starts to open at about 80-85 celcius. I have filled antifreeze and water.
When i turn the ignition key of (turn the power of) while the machine is running and let the arrow make its way back to the middle, then switch the power on again, the arrow is not climbing back to the red area.

Is this a problem with the temperature arrow in the cabin, or is the engine really hot. I can (barely) touch the top hose that goes to the radiator. If it's the engine, what can cause this problem?
 

imcase

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No feedback on my previus post? - Although the temperature has been stable the last 16 work hours...

Now I have a new problem: The battery lamp in the cab is shining, and neither worklights, wiper, or cab heater works. The machine starts fine, and it doesn't seem like there is low power on the batteries.
Batteries are maximum 1 year old. Could it be the dynamo, or are there problems with cables anywhere?

Would appreciate feedback on this one. :)
 

GregsHD

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I didn't see that last post, should be 24v, get a multimeter on the batteries and see if it's charging, also buy an inexpensive IR thermometer gun, next time it's showing hot check the temp at the thermostat housing, guessing its a false reading on the gauge.

Sounds like wiring issues, the wiring gets brittle in these older machines, just like the pic in your first post. Go over all the wiring and connections, check all the grounds, look for any broken wires, corrosion or loose connections at the harness plugs.
 

imcase

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Norway
Today the machine wouldn't start... :(
It makes one or two turns on the start engine and then stops. Sounds like the batteries are empty, but on the multimeter it shows 22,8v. Shouldn't that be enough for starting the engine?
The machine has been started several times without any problems at all after the battery lamp started showing.
When i startet checking the batteries, i noticed that the cable that goes from main power switch, was loose from the the minus-connection on the battery. After tightening nothing changes. Can this loose cable cause any permanent problems?
As i'm not so good at electrical stuff, i don't even know where to start looking for faults... :(
 

GregsHD

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Your batteries are too low at 22.8v. if you don't have a 24v charger just charge each battery individually.

Need to figure out why it's not charging, the loose ground may have been an issue, and no it won't cause any damage.

These machines have very little electrical draw when running, plus it's a small engine to crank, that's why it took so long for the batteries to go flat.

Get the batteries charged and check for bad wiring/loose connections at the alternator to start with.
 

imcase

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Thanks!
Turns out this was a false alarm...
I was going to check what was working and what not. So i pushed the toggle switch that on the picture earlier in this post is situated on the side of the original panel. On the picture bottom left.
When i pushed this, the battery lamp stopped shining and lights, wiper and heater all worked again. I have not checked yet, but i think, and hope, that the alternator also is charging again.
Turns out i have pushed the button without notice. What is this button for? I have a main power switch situated nearby the batteries, so i dont see the point of this switch.

Also. Does anyone have the dimensions on the bolts and bushings on the bucket and linkage? I am not nearby my machine right now, and wanted to order new bolts and bushings to get rid of the slack.
Or is it enough to change only the bushings?
 

imcase

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Jul 2, 2017
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Turns out there still is an electrical problem on my machine.
Because most of the worklamps were broken, i have now replaced all worklights with new 48W LED lights. When testing all lights after replacement, it turns out that the switch mentioned in the post above, is a light switch for the lights on the cab. The original lightswitch is for the lights on the stick. When all lights are turned on, they are not shining as much as they should, the wiper goes slowly and the heater doesnt work. Without lights, both the wiper and heater works fine.

The batteries have gone flat once more. When measuring the alternator it shows little above 30V both on idle and full throttle without lights. when lights are turned on it shows only 8V. The batteries show 25V both with or without lights turned on. I can't seem to find any loose wiring on the alternator, and i'm not shure where to check next.

Is this problem caused by broken alternator, or is there another problem?
 

seville009

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CNY
I'm no electrician, so this is just a guess, but you probably have bad ground(s) somewhere. I wouldn't think it's a short or chaffed wire, because that would probably blow stuff out or not work at all (versus working slowly or lights bring dim).
 
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