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Grizzly Trucks

diamondtguy

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
Occupation
machine fitter/fabricator
Still thinking about that one BP...I have a few Ideas but haven't started on anything yet..
 

diamondtguy

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Small rack I made today.It will sit up on the fuel tank and fit in between the tool boxes.Screen will protect the rear window and I have holes in the frame work for tie downs..Holes in the short angles are to clear bolts that are already there and I cant move..Gussetts/Trusses have yet to be figured out.
I have no room in my shop to fit it together and weld it up so I will have a friend weld it for me..He is a far better aluminum welder than I so all is good...
grizzly 002.JPG grizzly 003.JPG
 

diamondtguy

Senior Member
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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Just another story....I went to start the truck a week ago and it complained horribly and would barely turn over..Batterys are good and I have no shortage of grounds on the truck..Solenoid clicks 90% of the time and the starter might try and work the other 10%..
Truck was built with a Ford trans and the starter was on the right side.It also was a two bolt mount.New trans has the starter on the left (std dodge stuff) and its a 3 bolt mount.The guy who sold me the bellhousing gave me the starter but its obviously a dud..
Now...I am no fan of jobber rebuilds.The people I knew who rebuilt my starters recently closed shop in North Van due to ridiculous property taxes on industrial land in North Van.
I refuse to put a used starter or jobber rebuild in.Once the fender is back on it wont be a fun job to change..
There is a high torque starter available new but of course its not available in Canada.
I am too far along to worry about trying to save a couple hundred dollars so the new high torque starter is ordered along with a new sender unit for the fuel tank..
I have used these (same brand) starters in all the muscle car stuff I do and am very happy with them..Gear reduction and high torque...
Till it shows up I will tinker with other things..
 

Bumpsteer

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,333
Location
Front seat on the Struggle Bus
Occupation
Mechanical designer
Woah.....slow down.
Is it a Denso starter?
If so, needs the contacts replaced, available on ebay for cheap.
I've got them on damn near everything around here, big & small block mopars, Yanmars and Kawasikis. They get pitted and don't make good contact, other than that they are bulletproof.
It's a one beer job once the starter is off.

My 92 CTD has a Denso......

Ed
 

diamondtguy

Senior Member
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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Yes its a Denso starter...Is contacts another term for brushes ???
I switched my 7.3 ford to the denso starter but they didn't seem to last long.I did buy a new one not a rebuild..
I know its just the internet but quite a few people were not happy with the longevity of them..
Not much of a starter guy but I'll take your advise and pull the starter apart tomorrow.If nothing else I will fix it and keep it as a spare..Spare parts are good and I have no intention of selling the truck..
 

Bumpsteer

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Sep 2, 2009
Messages
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Location
Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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Mechanical designer
No, not brushes.
Pull the end cap off the solenoid, theres a round plunger that gets pulled into 2 copper contacts to complete the circuit and fire off the starter. They get pitted over time, won't make clean contact to turn the motor.
20170731_011356.jpg
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
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Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Well that would certainly make it slow down....
I can get new contacts fairly easy ?????
I will have a look tomorrow.....Thanks
 

Bumpsteer

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Sep 2, 2009
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Front seat on the Struggle Bus
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Mechanical designer
Ebay is your friend, or your local starter / alternator rebuild shop, if you still have one.
Got my last kit on ebay, place out of Chicago, they put together what I needed since it wasn't a stock kit.

Comes with plunger, contacts, studs, gaskets, above and beyond what was needed.
I'll try to get you the seller tomorrow.

Ed
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
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Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Pretty simple to expose the contacts..Mine are no where near as bad as those pictured but you can see by the arc spot it certainly wasn't making proper contact..starter 001.JPG starter 002.JPG starter 003.JPG starter 004.JPG
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Two of the 3 are badly pitted but I have cleaned them up and will probably try the starter again later today....starter 006.JPG starter 007.JPG starter 009.JPG
 

diamondtguy

Senior Member
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Feb 4, 2011
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1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
Just put the starter back in and its not at all interested in working...Clicking solenoid is all I got.I hot wired it to verify I was hearing the right solenoid and I put my ratchet on my barring tool and had no problems turning the engine over...
Sure glad the fender is not on yet....
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
No worries....I thank you for your help and I now have a little bit of insight into these starters...
 

John Shipp

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
641
Location
England
Occupation
forestry contracting
Just had a battery showed 12.66v, barely lit up the dash lights. Cleaned several terminals, nothing happening, cleaned immobiliser contacts and started worrying about that. Then noted battery now 12.4v, so tried jump leads. Turned over 1/2 before solenoid skipped. Put battery from other machine in, yippee fired up great. This was at 5 pm fuel up after running normally all day. One cell was kaput, even though somehow still showed 12.66v. Just in case your batteries been around a while...
 

Camshawn

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
585
Location
Langley BC
Occupation
retired
I would second the battery check.... I have saved a lot of work several times in the past. I would have a volt meter checking at the starter. The voltage should not drop below about 10v while cranking. A bad cell can hide. You could also test with a known battery or jumper cables to prove that it is the starter and not the battery.
Cam
 

diamondtguy

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Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,472
Location
Mapleridge..BC
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machine fitter/fabricator
For the most part I hid from the heat today.The Grizzly tent is stupid hot inside and outside isn't much better.I did some voltage checks tho
Left side battery that is new is 12.89V.Ground is a cable to the frame.
Right side battery that came with truck is fairly new and was 12.91V.Ground is a cable up to the front.Both battery's are stud mount not lugs and both are diesel battery's..
Dual battery cables are from the 78 F-250 I got the front axel from.It was a dual battery truck set up from the factory to plow snow.All cable ends were glass beaded and the cables were good..Engine is grounded to cab with a braided cable and grounded to chassis with a cable.All grounds are freshly cleaned with new bolts (no never seize) and I use shake washers on everything .Also most of the ground locations are new and I drilled the frame (1/4 thick) and tapped the holes..Bolts for grounds are new stainless to avoid corrosion issues down the road..
Not sure if I have a direct cab to chassis ground but all the cab and box lights work so the way I have it is working...
Don't think I missed anything.....
 

Camshawn

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
585
Location
Langley BC
Occupation
retired
Sounds like you have the wiring down. Can you clip on a volt meter in a place you can see and then crank it over? That should show a dead or going dead cell if you have one. Duel battery systems seem to be finicky. Quite often one battery will charge / use more water than the other.
I am hiding inside this evening due to the smoke. It was quite thick here in south Langley around 5:00.
I look forward to seeing your project on the road. Cam
 
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