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ford 3000 help

Discussion in 'Agricultural Equipment' started by Dualie, May 23, 2011.

  1. Dualie

    Dualie Senior Member

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    I inherited a ford 3000 from a friend that was moving and didnt want to deal with it.

    The back story is his neighbor borrowed it and blew it up, neighbor found a good used engine and put it in. IT ran marginal for a while then started smoking and running rough and now it wont run at all.

    It was very low on fuel so i added 5 gallons to the tank. Bleed out the system all the way to the injectors. I get fuel squirting out of all the injectors but not with as much force as i would think there should be. also getting fuel all the way to the tank return from the IP.

    It spins over but doesn't even try to fire even with a "who cares at this point" shot of either.

    anyone know where i can get a compression checking adapter for the ford 3000?

    Im trying to save it from going to scrap but Its not making it easy on me. its very close to getting the torch.

    I have a tractor wrecker willing to give me $1200 for it but its probobly worth more than that as prepared scrap.
     
  2. funkinalive

    funkinalive Well-Known Member

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    not even firing? maybe a number of things, mind you i dont own a 3000 or a ford for that matter but,im guessing motors got no compression to ignite mixture. maybe also check for blockage in the air intake (rats nest) it the motor fairly easy to turn over?
     
  3. koldsteele

    koldsteele Well-Known Member

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    Hey Dualie ..I made one out of an old injector ...just gut the injector and thread a gauge on ....These motors where bad to blow the head gasket between two cylinders ..I'd just pull your injectors and spin it and I'll bet you'll find your troulbe ..Good luck.
     
  4. Richardjw~

    Richardjw~ Senior Member

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    I had a similar problem with my 3000 at home, it would only start with easy-start, anyway come the end it would only rev to about 1200 and lost all its power and was running on 2 cyls......turned out to be that rotary fuel pump, put a new one on it and its fine now....starts better as well
     
  5. Dualie

    Dualie Senior Member

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    Not even trying to cough and fire. intake is clear i can feel it trying to suck on the intake stroke. IM starting to suspect atleast a bad Injector pump. im trying to decide if its worth throwing a $700 Injection pump at...
     
  6. funkinalive

    funkinalive Well-Known Member

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    if its not even attempting to fire with ether or quick start sprayed into the intake tract than im not so sure you should jump to that conclusion just yet...
     
  7. Richardjw~

    Richardjw~ Senior Member

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    simple, take the fuel lines off the injectors & see if its delivering fuel......end of
     
  8. funkinalive

    funkinalive Well-Known Member

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    Dualie stated in his first post that he already did that
    "It was very low on fuel so i added 5 gallons to the tank. Bleed out the system all the way to the injectors. I get fuel squirting out of all the injectors but not with as much force as i would think there should be. also getting fuel all the way to the tank return from the IP."
    additionally, the tractor refuses to lite even with quick start, which should get the motor to cough, this in my book would indicate little or no compression...
    i maybe wrong but im leaning away from a fuel delivery issue based on whats been said.
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2011
  9. Richardjw~

    Richardjw~ Senior Member

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    OK, well let us know what you find Dualie because we're on the edge of our seats here
     
  10. grandkobelco

    grandkobelco Well-Known Member

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    Dualie, can you pull one injector out of the head, and it's fuel line and reassemble them out were you can see the injector tip? Cranck the engine over and watch the injector tip. Stand back. This fuel is under high pressure and can be dangeress. If you get no spray at all the dellivary valve in your inj pump is probably bad.
     
  11. Willis Bushogin

    Willis Bushogin Senior Member

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    Guess Ill hijack, this thread
    Im trying to help a neighbor, he has a Ford 3000 also, according to him he let someone borrow it and now the lift will not lift the box blade. It will lift it, if you rev the engine up and manually lift on the blade, but if you let it down, you have to manually help it back up.
    The tractor doesnt have a hydraulic filter and you can take the pressure line off and it apprears to have good pressure. Im really not a tractor person, I was told it might be the lift cylinder is bypassing. I looked at the service manual and it looks like a bad job to get to the cylinder
    I think the tractor has had a rough life, but Im just trying to help a friend
    Any suggestions
     
  12. smittysrepair

    smittysrepair Well-Known Member

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    Will it hold the box blade up on its own after you get it up?
     
  13. Willis Bushogin

    Willis Bushogin Senior Member

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    yes it will stay up for like 10-12 hrs before it leaks back down to the ground
     
  14. smittysrepair

    smittysrepair Well-Known Member

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    It's not the cylinder then. You need to get a pressure gauge on it and see what kind of pressure you actually have.
     
  15. Willis Bushogin

    Willis Bushogin Senior Member

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    now the big question, where to put the guages and what should it read
     
  16. smittysrepair

    smittysrepair Well-Known Member

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    If I remember correctly there is a threaded port under the seat that you can check the pump pressure on. I am not sure what pressure it should be though. But I am digging through my library for your answer and I will let you know what I find.
     
  17. smittysrepair

    smittysrepair Well-Known Member

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    I did find a spec sheet on a Ford 3000 tractor and it says hyd pump output is 4.8gpm and 2,500psi at 2,000rpm engine speed. Also I am almost positive on the test port being under the seat. Let me know what you figure out or if there is anything I can help you out with.
     
  18. Willis Bushogin

    Willis Bushogin Senior Member

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    Thanks, I will try to check it out in a few days
     
  19. mitch504

    mitch504 Senior Member

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    That test port is on a small (about 5"x6") cover under the seat. In order to get a dead end test pressure you must take that cover off and reverse it. The test port is an o-ring boss fitting, bout a -4 or -6. If there is an aux. valve installed it will be in place of that cover, and you just use it.
     
  20. koldsteele

    koldsteele Well-Known Member

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    Willis I dont think you have pump trouble ...Its fairly common after time these lifts get out off adjustment ...The only thing is you have to take the lift cover off to do these adjustments ..Good luck..