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First time pulling tranny

Truck Shop

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I've worked in shops with a pit sometimes it's good but most of the time not so good. Good way to brake a leg. Make sure and keep it covered-insurance companies just love those.
right along with osha and l & I.

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still learn'n

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Yes sir the balls were all laying in the bottom of bearing case.

Since it's just a throw out bearing do you get a new one and put it back together or replace clutch to while I got it apart
 

crane operator

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I guess with the pit/ no pit, its whatever you're used to. I could see that being really nice for greasing undercarriage, and adjusting brakes. I could see it being a pain for the job he's doing right now.

If he has to dive into that transmission, you'd have to drag the truck off the pit, pull the trans off the jack, then swap/fix it, put it back on the jack. Unless the jack goes high enough to work on it right on the jack, but then you'd have to put the cover back on the pit. I know I'd loose some important part and it would roll under the cover and to the bottom of the pit. Then once you had the trans fixed, you have to drop it in the pit, roll the truck back over, and then install.

If you use the same jack to install the clutch, where do you set the transmission down at? Otherwise you're installing it over your head, or probably putting it on the transmission first. I'll admit, I've never installed the clutch on the transmission first, I've always put it on the engine first, but I haven't done near the number of clutches that some of these guys have.

Since it's just a throw out bearing do you get a new one and put it back together or replace clutch to while I got it apart

I've rarely taken a transmission off where I haven't just gone ahead and done the clutch, unless I was just there a year ago and replaced it. You can pull the clutch and inspect it for wear, and look at the flywheel.

If you're fixing it to sell it, just do the throwout bearing, if you're keeping it for 5 years and need it, I'd spend the $ and do the clutch while I was there.
 

kshansen

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I've rarely taken a transmission off where I haven't just gone ahead and done the clutch, unless I was just there a year ago and replaced it. You can pull the clutch and inspect it for wear, and look at the flywheel.

If you're fixing it to sell it, just do the throwout bearing, if you're keeping it for 5 years and need it, I'd spend the $ and do the clutch while I was there.
That's a Spicer Angle Spring clutch, the throw-out bearing is part of the pressure plate assembly. Sure if you are trying to save a buck one could probably buy just the throw-out bearing and not take the clutch out but don't think I would try that unless I had an old one sitting there and was going to trade off the truck next week.
 

kshansen

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Yes sir the balls were all laying in the bottom of bearing case.

Since it's just a throw out bearing do you get a new one and put it back together or replace clutch to while I got it apart

Like I said above 99% of the time I would say replace the complete clutch. If the truck was abused enough to cause the bearing to fail I would wonder how bad the other parts are. OH! by the way when you order the new clutch assembly don't forget to get a new pilot bearing that goes in the flywheel.

If you don't know how to properly adjust an "Angle Spring" clutch let us know and we can walk you through it or maybe even find a link to a manual on it. Sometimes the new clutch will come with instructions.
 

mitch504

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Can you even replace that bearing in the truck? I know it has to be pressed on while the pressure plate is compressed.

Can you buy the bearing anywhere? I had one come apart once less than 6 months and 10,000 miles. I tried everything to find one, but I wasn't going to put in a used bearing. Pulling the tranny is too much work and downtime to save $500.
 

Truck Shop

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Replace that clutch with a Eaton 208925-20 clutch rated for 1850 torque, six paddle easy pedal. Use the two piece Babcock SB200 pin type clutch brake it's the best one out there.
Install the clutch loaded in the transmission.

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Tenwheeler

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I thank 6 cylinder engines normally stop at one of three places. If the engine has not been turned install the pressure plate with the adjuster at the bottom. Then it should be easy to find for adjusting in the future. Mark a reference spot on the flywheel before removing it. That makes for quick and easy installation.
 

RZucker

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I thank 6 cylinder engines normally stop at one of three places. If the engine has not been turned install the pressure plate with the adjuster at the bottom. Then it should be easy to find for adjusting in the future. Mark a reference spot on the flywheel before removing it. That makes for quick and easy installation.
Usually when I do a clutch adjustment I find a reference point and mark the balancer with a paint pen using a "CL" mark. Easier to just line it up with the appropriate turning tool and be done with it with out the 2 man "bump it" method. But then I see the same trucks over and over.
 

Tenwheeler

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That is a good idea! Heavy duty Snap-On remote starter button and a sliding Matco tool that holds the clutch down are often my second person.
 

farmerlund

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Ok not meaning to hijack but, since you brought up the clutch brake Truck Stop, I had to cut out my factory one in a 2005 KW900. It was wore out. I replaced it with the hinged style, TRP I think. About once a year it breaks the little ears off the inside. Is the babcock better in that way. I have not tried that brand before.

Ya I know don't push the pedal down all the way while you are still rolling.:rolleyes:

Would you not use the factory one since he has the trans out?
 

still learn'n

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Thanks for the input I did go on YouTube and watched clutch adjustment videos by Eaton. Thanks for the manual. I am going to go ahead and replace clutch this water truck gets pushed by a soil stabilizer/reclaimer and sometimes the truck has to pull and the clutch gets slipped .

IMG_20180117_142109962.jpg IMG_20180117_142106986.jpg IMG_20180117_142057524.jpg IMG_20180117_142045304.jpg
 

DMiller

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Heat cracks from slipping. So long as do not propagate to an edge should be alright. Could get it refaced but the dark spots are now hard spots and will forever chatter once heated again.
 

Tenwheeler

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still learn'n: That is a neat looking set up but I question some things. I prefer a larger fixture under the transmission that allows adjustment of tilt front to back and side to side. Also being able to move side to side can be beneficial at times. Maybe you have some of that and I just can't see it in the pictures. I am sure you will work it out. Keep us posted.
 

Truck Shop

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Ok not meaning to hijack but, since you brought up the clutch brake Truck Stop, I had to cut out my factory one in a 2005 KW900. It was wore out. I replaced it with the hinged style, TRP I think. About once a year it breaks the little ears off the inside. Is the babcock better in that way. I have not tried that brand before.

Ya I know don't push the pedal down all the way while you are still rolling.:rolleyes:

Would you not use the factory one since he has the trans out?

The SB200 is easy to change just give it a blast with a torch where the pins are and it will fall out. That is a common problem with the hinge type clutch brakes, it's normal to
find them laying in the bell housing-junk.

Truck Shop

babcock-brakes__34756.1467330040.500.500.jpg
 

still learn'n

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still learn'n: That is a neat looking set up but I question some things. I prefer a larger fixture under the transmission that allows adjustment of tilt front to back and side to side. Also being able to move side to side can be beneficial at times. Maybe you have some of that and I just can't see it in the pictures. I am sure you will work it out. Keep us posted.

No I quick built this hoist and I didn't put that in it but I need to change it.
 
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