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D9G or D9H - What do you recommend?

Scrub Puller

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Mar 29, 2009
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Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . .

Going O/T with apologies to O/P.

Ripping hard rock was never a big part of my career but I did a few thousand hours mostly on D8's and smaller.

I must say that having put some time in watching excavators in road cuts it seems to me, these days, a similar weight excavator with a tine and bucket can be more effective in a road cut than a similar weighted dozer.

The application is obviously much easier on the operator and probably the machine and of course there is the advantage of being able to pull the batters and load into trucks.

I certainly would not have liked to have been smoking a D8 tine on some stuff a thirty ton Hitachi handled with relative ease.

What do you fellers reckon?

Cheers.
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
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112
Location
Nevada
To me an adjustable angle ripper is the way to go. That way you can a) use the angle cylinders as a giant prybar to lever difficult rocks out of the ground and b) the angle of attack of the ripper tooth/teeth can be varied to get optimum ripping performance depending on how the grain of the rock is angled. BTW before someone says the shank is upside down the machine was new and that's how it shipped from the factory.

View attachment 160346

Hello Nige:

I didn't think the picture was upside down. I thought it was an arrow pointing to where I need to sit! :)
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
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Location
Nevada
Another consideration for the OP, WINTER USAGE enclosed cab with good working heater...N.E Nevada? gets chilly, sitting exposed on a dozer is miserable.

Cold in winter and hot in summer. My odds of getting a 4-barrel, rock guards and an EOROPs are close to zero. If I can get the 4-barrel and rock guards, I'll build my own enclosure if I must.
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
Messages
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Nevada
Yair . . .

Going O/T with apologies to O/P.

Ripping hard rock was never a big part of my career but I did a few thousand hours mostly on D8's and smaller.

I must say that having put some time in watching excavators in road cuts it seems to me, these days, a similar weight excavator with a tine and bucket can be more effective in a road cut than a similar weighted dozer.

The application is obviously much easier on the operator and probably the machine and of course there is the advantage of being able to pull the batters and load into trucks.

I certainly would not have liked to have been smoking a D8 tine on some stuff a thirty ton Hitachi handled with relative ease.

What do you fellers reckon?

Cheers.

Can an excavator move the same volume in the same amount of time as a dozer?
 

Scrub Puller

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Mar 29, 2009
Messages
3,481
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Gladstone Queensland Australia
Yair . . .

Can an excavator move the same volume in the same amount of time as a dozer?

Yes Sir, that is the question. Rather than "time" I am inclined to substitute "cost".

My gut feeling is in some applications/situations they can. There are folks on here such as Nige and JDOFMEMI who can give a pretty definitive answer.

Their opinions would be interesting.

Cheers.
 

ol'stonebreaker

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Apr 26, 2015
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333
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Idaho
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retired
Cold in winter and hot in summer. My odds of getting a 4-barrel, rock guards and an EOROPs are close to zero. If I can get the 4-barrel and rock guards, I'll build my own enclosure if I must.

For winter use the old cats from D8-K and back have reversible fans so in the winter you set the fan to pull and put the canvas curtains along each side of the engine so the heat blows back on you. Summer you reverse the fan to blow the heat out the front. been there, done that!!
Mike
 

StanRUS

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Mar 7, 2016
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767
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Cal
Cold in winter and hot in summer. My odds of getting a 4-barrel, rock guards and an EOROPs are close to zero. If I can get the 4-barrel and rock guards, I'll build my own enclosure if I must.

Rock Guard changed to Track Guides; we mostly remove them on older Cats D8s-D9s, Komatsu dozers; ripping daily wears out the rearmost rollers because the weight is pulled down at the rear of the machine. Some non-OEM bottom rollers wouldn't last over 60hrs...circa late 90s
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
Messages
112
Location
Nevada
For winter use the old cats from D8-K and back have reversible fans so in the winter you set the fan to pull and put the canvas curtains along each side of the engine so the heat blows back on you. Summer you reverse the fan to blow the heat out the front. been there, done that!!
Mike

Any port in a storm, right?
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
Messages
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Nevada
Rock Guard changed to Track Guides; we mostly remove them on older Cats D8s-D9s, Komatsu dozers; ripping daily wears out the rearmost rollers because the weight is pulled down at the rear of the machine. Some non-OEM bottom rollers wouldn't last over 60hrs...circa late 90s

So StanRUS, you removed the rock guards? Aren't they suppose to keep rocks out of the rollers and also keep the sprockets clean of rocks between the chain and the sprocket teeth?

60 hours on rollers from ripping? Whoa! That's major time off and big expense to change one.
 

Scrub Puller

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Yair . . .

The biggest hassle with changing rollers is removing rock guards and I'd be leaving the suckers off too if I was changing rollers every few days.

I must say I recall no such sixty hour issues when I was pulling hooks.

I believe StanRUS is on the money . . . "rock guards" is a misnomer but (I believe) they are effective in-as-much-as they can preserve roller flanges by helping to keep worn and snaky chains a little straight.

Cheers.
 

StanRUS

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767
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Cal
Yair . . .

The biggest hassle with changing rollers is removing rock guards and I'd be leaving the suckers off too if I was changing rollers every few days.

I must say I recall no such sixty hour issues when I was pulling hooks.

I believe StanRUS is on the money . . . "rock guards" is a misnomer but (I believe) they are effective in-as-much-as they can preserve roller flanges by helping to keep worn and snaky chains a little straight.

Cheers.

Look @ the D10T photo posted by Nige, no rock guards. The articulating Boggies have a bolt on track guide...very similar also are newer Komatsu dozers.
60hrs roller failures were caused by using Berco and Chinese manufactured rollers trying to pinch pennies on older dozers; they literally just come to peaces from the continuous impacting of running on rocky surfaces. RT Korean manufactured undercarriage parts provide reasonable service life and Berco has improved after being taken over by ThyssenKrupp AG. For larger High Drive dozers D8 up, OEM undercarriage still gives the best ROI and field service is available if required!
 

Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Yair . . .

The biggest hassle with changing rollers is removing rock guards and I'd be leaving the suckers off too if I was changing rollers every few days.

I must say I recall no such sixty hour issues when I was pulling hooks.

I believe StanRUS is on the money . . . "rock guards" is a misnomer but (I believe) they are effective in-as-much-as they can preserve roller flanges by helping to keep worn and snaky chains a little straight.

Cheers.
Although they are colloquially referred to by all in the industry as rock guards in "The Book" their official name is "Track Guiding Guards" ............. QED.
 

ol'stonebreaker

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Maybe passionhawk needs to contact jakeharrington, the OP of "D8-H worth thread. He has 5 of them but no mention of rippers. He's a long way from Nevada.
Mike
 

Tones

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Ubique
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Ex land clearing contractor, part-time retired
Passionhawk, I have been following this thread with a great deal of interest. As mentioned by Scrub and others a good sized excavator will out rip a dozer but becomes uneconomic when they move the same dirt more than once unless it's in a confined area. So I'll put this to you, get and excavator to do the primary ripping and stacking then use a wheel loader to move the material to required destination (muck heap or processing plant). Doing this I believe will lower your operating costs by heaps. Just my 2 cents worth and good luck which ever way you choose.
 

JDOFMEMI

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Jan 3, 2007
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SoCal
Thank you. Lots of good information here. I've really gotten the "message" about the older larger Cats. I saw the one with the cracked head and I thought to myself, "If that's all there is wrong with it - why wasn't it fixed?"

I'm seeing D8Ls and D9Ls in the $60-120,000 range on Machinery Trader. Is there any book that lists the FMV on these used CATS?

Now you mention that the D8L-D9L and even 10's are being scraped. Really? I thought CATS could be refurbished over and over and over? Why do you say they are being "scraped"?

Do you know (or does anyone know) how many average hours an engine, transmission, torque converter, and finals can or should last? When I see ads that say "Only 6000 hours on the engine" - that does not seem like a sweet deal to me but then, I have no idea.

Thank you so much for your comments,
Jim Mitchell


Re: Fair Market Value: Due to the widely varied condition of machines, there is no simple answer. Case in point, a recent auction in CA had six D-10T dozers. All were within a year or two in age, but in condition there was a huge gap. Three were cleaned, painted and had new UC. Three did not, and looked worn. Careful inspection revealed a large discrepency in condition of the first three. One which looked like the lesser visually was the best on close inspection. The best had a transmission failure before it moved a blade of dirt, and the third had a sickly engine, along with so many other issues it was not worth looking at. The sale prices ranged from $350K to $220K for the "clean" ones, and the unpainted, well worn went for $150K.

Buyer beware and make sure someone with a good knowledge of these machines inspects them before laying down hard earned money.

There are lots of potential problems that can hide on a big cat until you put it to work. Part of my education was being involved in purchasing a D-9N dozer many years ago. It was shipped to the job, and found to have many problems. It went to the dealer for $150K in repairs before it could go to work. That said, the same machine is working, 15 years and one more rebuild later, and due to being pre electronics, it is one of the most reliable. I plan on rebuilding it again in a year or so for its third life with me, and at least two prior to me.

As for repairs, you need someone local to do basic repairs and maintenance. The dealer rate is in the ball park of $140 per hour, port to port, or from the time they leave the shop until they return. In addition, they charge mileage as well. 200 miles away and you could have a $2,000 bill before they ever work on the machine.

As for Cats getting scrapped, when they no longer provide an economic benefit to their owner, they get scrapped or sold. Different owners have different levels at which this happens. There are large machines scrapped at 15,000 hrs because of poor care, and ones still running at 100,000 hrs, with good care and several rebuilds.

For the operation you describe, I would look for a D-9N or R, D-8N or R, or possibly a good condition D-8L or D-9L. The L will be hard to find in good enough condition to last for you. The last D-9L engine I was in was $85,000. Go into track frames, equalizer bard, pivot shaft, etc, and the money adds up fast, especially if you have to hire it done.

A properly rebulit Cat engine in a large dozer should see 10,000 hrs even in bad conditions, and 18,000 hrs with excellent care, but who did it? was it done correctly? If it has no documents or warranty, buyer beware. Just becuse it only has 6,000 hrs does not mean it will last more than out the driveway.

You are on the right track by wanting a Cat, as they are the only thing that you can get good parts and servive for once thay are past their prime.

Good luck with your venture.

In my opinion, the only ones that can get by with old large dozers on a small scale are people that are their own mechanic, and quite adept at it.
 

Passionhawk1

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Nevada
Hello Jerry:

I have been off and gone for a looooooong time. I so appreciate your insight and recommendations. I came within a whisker of buying a D8L. The chain looked good, the sprocket teeth were thick and unchipped, the pads were not too bad and I didn't see any oil around the engine. Took the cap off and didn't see any blow-by and I thought it was good. An older gentleman like myself saw me looking it over and struck up a conversation. I quickly learned the clutches were bad, the finals were dry, one rail was damaged and the retarder was malfunctioning. It was then I decided I would not purchase a machine without paying a 2nd disinterested expert to look it over. I got lucky.

I also found a D9G that had really been cared for by the owner. Moreover, it was less than 200 miles from my property. Very tempting. After reading about the ripper problems in the D9G and D9H models and also the high fuel consumption, I passed with reluctance.

It also seems prudent that I find an experienced mechanic close-by and build a lasting friendship with that fellow before I buy any iron!!!!!!!!!!

Now, two questions:

#1. Nige recommended that I keep with a machine with friction/clutch/brakes and stay away from differential control. I found that eliminates most of the machines manufactured after 1990 so that really narrows the field. Now, you have recommended to stay clear of machines with electronics. At what time period did the electronics kick in? I assume you refer to electronic ignition.

#2. I found several D7 machines with extremely low hours. The military and county governments apparently like that size machine. Trouble with the D7 machines is that the 2-barrel rippers seem like they were intended to rip loosened gravel (joke) and nothing much more related to fractured rock or cemented conglomerate. From what I could tell, a person needs at least a D8 or more to do serious ripping. Is that generally true?

Again, I greatly appreciate your insight, Jerry.

Kindest Regards,
Jim Mitchell
 

Passionhawk1

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Oct 3, 2016
Messages
112
Location
Nevada
. . . . . and it would seem that you could be quite selective with an excavator - picking it apart. These hills are filled with quartz veins that run all over like Fleur de lis.
 
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