D4E Brakes

[LarryH]

I have a D4E SA. While adjusting the brakes I discovered the lining on the right side was split and broke free of the rivets. There was also a piece of the lining broke off. I need to put new brakes in it. My question is: What kind of a job am I looking at? Haven't been able to get a definitive answer yet and haven't received the service manual I ordered. Can the bands be removed through the rear access holes or out the top? This thing has a factory cab so guess that will complicate matters if need to access through the top. Can anyone shed some light on this for me. Thanks.

 

[Old Magnet]

Band assembly is one piece. First step in process is remove steering clutches then remove the brake drum and brake band assembly as a unit.

 

[LarryH]

Thanks for the reply. I have read with interest many of your posts on this and other forums. My D4E has a wet deck if that matters in removing the brakes. What was Cats reasoning in going backwards on this model? If I'm not mistaken, on the D4D they could be removed/replaced through the top cover without removing the clutches. What a huge job to replace a wear part on the D4E!

 

[Check Break]

The cross shaft has to come out to remove the bands. When you remove the top cover, the top of the pinion hub is exposed, allowing you to remove the bolts from the side. You have to be able to turn the pinion hubs 360 degrees to expose all bolts. The cross shaft will then come out and the bands will slide off the side of the drums. If your drums are not useable, you'll have to pull them off the cross shaft with hydraulic tooling. You'll need a special tool or homemade tool to get the top cover off. A pin joining the steering clutch linkage (from the hydraulic assist) has to be positioned just so under an access hole drilled in the cover. The special tool is inserted in the hole and used to unscrew the pin holding the two pieces of linkage together. The cover won't come off until the linkage is disconnected. Remember to measure the bearing retainers on your cross shaft before you remove it so when you put it back the bevel gear is still in the same place. I still have some excellent 27X parts if you need something when you get inside.

 

[LarryH]

Thank You. All good information. I will keep you in mind when I get into it. A lot bigger job than I originally anticipated.

 

[Old Magnet]

Thanks for the reply. I have read with interest many of your posts on this and other forums. My D4E has a wet deck if that matters in removing the brakes. What was Cats reasoning in going backwards on this model? If I'm not mistaken, on the D4D they could be removed/replaced through the top cover without removing the clutches. What a huge job to replace a wear part on the D4E!

Lot more to the D4E hydraulic boost arrangement then the mechanical version. Drums and band will just slide off once the steering clutch assemblies/cross shaft is removed. It's the steering clutch disc hubs that need hydraulic assist for removal.

 

[tctractors]

Just as O.M has posted there is no special tools needed to refresh your 720 brake bands, the drums are bolted to the pinion flange with 14 bolts, the bevel gear pre load is best done with a thin spanner that can be made before the cross shaft is re-fitted, also the backlash is possible to be reset without a dial gauge, if you posted up a few snaps we can help you tackle the task, it is simple if you know how like most things.

tctractors

 

[D6 Merv]

Is a lot of work.
Was only the dry back end D4Ds [and earlier] that had a 3 piece band that would come out in place. All the wet back end D4D and D4E have double wrap brake bands that come out in one piece along with the whole bevel gear shaft.
Reseal the final drive pinions while your that deeply into it.

 

[Check Break]

Lot more to the D4E hydraulic boost arrangement then the mechanical version. Drums and band will just slide off once the steering clutch assemblies/cross shaft is removed. It's the steering clutch disc hubs that need hydraulic assist for removal.

Yes. I forgot the drums slide off. Now that you mentioned it, I remember I almost lost one when removing the steering clutch. I was disassembling to save parts and wasn't paying attention to how the brakes came apart. Just popped the whole assembly off the cross shaft at the same time.

 

[Old Magnet]

Check the clutch pack thickness also while your in there, may be time to do the whole works.

 

[LarryH]

Thanks for all the replies. Although not the best news at least now I now what I'm up against. I agree that it only makes sense to check everything when I get into it.