D333 To 3306 conversion possible??

[kshansen]

And to just confuse things more I took a look at the piston page on SIS and see this:

Not sure if that is important, but don't think there is any place in Iowa that is half way to 4,000 feet!

 

[ferrret3238]

Hopefully the altitude doesn't matter much for this engine. My survey last year put my altitude at 700ft. I wonder why the engine would spec out as a high compression engine when it was supposedly a mining crane that would almost be assured to be low altitude? Unless they just spec high compression and more fuel to get 150hp out of it? I was also told it had some sort of air scrubber behind it also for mining, not that it really matters for what I'm doing though.

 

[kshansen]

Hopefully the altitude doesn't matter much for this engine. My survey last year put my altitude at 700ft. I wonder why the engine would spec out as a high compression engine when it was supposedly a mining crane that would almost be assured to be low altitude? Unless they just spec high compression and more fuel to get 150hp out of it? I was also told it had some sort of air scrubber behind it also for mining, not that it really matters for what I'm doing though.

Wish I could answer that, it was strange to me too. Maybe the mine was up at the top of a mountain?

 

[ferrret3238]

I finally got the 3306 engine loader running!!! It fired right up after pumping the primer for a little bit and about 7 seconds of cranking it over. I had to weld a 1/2 pipe fitting to the intake to go to the air compressor inlet, hook up the Bendix air compressor governor, and finish up the little bit of wiring to the engine. I put a gauge on the oil pressure port at the engine and It has about 70 psi of oil pressure so I thought that was good although not sure what they should actually be for pressure. I was wondering in the attached pictures what the little port with the brass plug goes to? It originally had a brake flare fitting in it and not really sure where it went to as this is a different setup. I'm also looking for a cap for the road sign blockoff plate for the accessory drive if anyone knows a part number or a source for one. The sign is holding but I would like a more permanent solution. I also had to custom make the radiator adapters to fit up to this engine, the top one is 1/4 plate with a 2-1/2 od pipe welded to it and smoothed out. The bottom one was a 3/8 plate 3 bolt flange with a 2-1/2 pipe fabricated to a 90 out and a 45 at the end to hook up to the bottom of the gear driven water pump. Making them wasn't too bad cause I own a machine shop. I was just hoping my welds held and didn't drain 25 gallons of coolant onto the city street! Ill get some more pictures when I get the intake filter and exhaust fabbed up and installed. Thank you to all for your help on this, it is very much appreciated.

 

[ferrret3238]

I'm back again. The loader and the 3306 are running decent, used it to load some rocks and concrete from the yard the other day and it worked pretty good. It's blowing some white smoke when I rev it up a bit but when its at a steady rpm whether revved up or at idle it doesn't smoke. The oil pressure is at 100 psi and I was thinking that this might be the cause of the smoking? It looks like it might be seeping some oil out the exhaust cause it looks burnt oily on the underside of the exhaust pipe. Has this ever happened to a engine before? Maybe I got a oil line in the wrong place or not hooked up correctly? Also I need to put a winter heater system on this engine. Its a 110 volt plug in type unit with a heater and a pump to circulate heated coolant thru the engine. The heater has a 3/4 inlet and a 3/4 outlet and I was wondering if anybody knows the best places on the engine to hook up the inlet and the outlet? I'll get some pictures of the loader and engine loaded up soon. Thank you all for your help.

 

[Delmer]

The white smoke is most likely unburned fuel, from late timing or bad injectors, or? The turbo can leak oil too, I wouldn't worry about your oil pressure or oil lines wrong causing the smoke. If the turbo doesn't have oil pressure it will let you know soon enough, same with anything else that's not getting oil pressure.

Are you talking about the common tank style heater?, or something that looks like it cost a grand originally that you pulled off a hospital genset? because those common tank heaters are called "circulation" heaters, but they don't circulate unless you install them to thermosiphon. There's no pump, but as long as the lines slope up towards the engine, then the coolant will circulate on it's own. You want the hose from the lowest spot on the water jacket of the engine going into the side of the heater, and the hose from the top of the heater can go to anywhere else on the water jacket. If you can get about 2' of height in the hose coming off the top, then the heater will lose less heat to the air because it will stay closer to the temp of the engine from the stronger circulation.

 

[ferrret3238]

There is no turbo on this engine, In the manual for the D6C I have with a 3306 it says low oil pressure is 20 psi so i was wondering if normal oil pressure is around say 40 psi? If its 0 or 100 though ill take 100. As for the heater after looking it up online it says circulating but I believe it to be of the thermosiphon style. Attached are pictures of the oil stains down the exhaust tube and the side of the block. I was thinking I could pull the top square head pipe plug on the water pump and that would be the suction? Then pull the one next to the top of the oil filter in the picture and that would be the return? If not this engine has coolant lines going through the exhaust manifold per the steel braided lines in the pictures too. What about teeing it in to that somehow?

 

[ferrret3238]

More pictures of the project. I also need to repack one of the lift cylinders on this machine so if anybody knows the seal kit number for one of these I would appreciate that too. It seems that putting the engine in was the easy part but hooking up the weird accessories to the engine is the hard part. It also has a cab heater but I think I can tie that into the coolant lines that come off of the exhaust manifold. The one is close to the cab so it wouldn't be too bad to hook another steel braided line to the heater in the cab and return it to the block I could put a bypass valve on it too so it didn't have to go to the cab heater for warming up the engine.

 

[Jonas302]

Looks like you did a good job its always the details that take time
there should be a block heater to screw right in

 

[Delmer]

That sure looks like motor oil on the exhaust. I was thinking it would be unburned fuel, but that would be more sooty. I don't know what to think of the oil pressure, does it go down when the engine gets warmed up?

Those plugs will work as long as they don't trap an air bubble. Ideally you want the cold water to come out of the bottom of the water jacket, and the hot to go into the middle horizontally (like cylinder 3 or 4 , it can go high or low, only difference is how low you have to hang the heater to get the same circulation)

 

[Birken Vogt]

I work on lots of generators that usually have tank type thermosiphon heaters.

I see them plumbed all sorts of ways but mostly just hook the low side of the heater to a low port on the engine and the high side to a higher port. Any convenient block drain and a heater outlet seem most common.

 

[Enzo304]

More pictures of the project. I also need to repack one of the lift cylinders on this machine so if anybody knows the seal kit number for one of these I would appreciate that too. It seems that putting the engine in was the easy part but hooking up the weird accessories to the engine is the hard part. It also has a cab heater but I think I can tie that into the coolant lines that come off of the exhaust manifold. The one is close to the cab so it wouldn't be too bad to hook another steel braided line to the heater in the cab and return it to the block I could put a bypass valve on it too so it didn't have to go to the cab heater for warming up the engine.

Good day Ferrret, just want to know whether you finally completed your installation of 3306 engine on your 966B wheel loader. Did it work well on the 966B after installation

 

[ferrret3238]

I did but it has issues. It doesn't have quite the power that the owner seems to think it used to with the d333. Even though the hp is close to the same maybe the turbo gave it a snappier response. It moves good and has quite a bit of torque but I think it could dig better also. The owner seems to think that it would spin all 4 tires when digging into a pile of dirt but I don't see that happening with a 32,000 lb machine. It still has 100 lbs of oil pressure which is a little issue but it runs. I was discussing it with some mechanics and was possibly thinking that maybe 100lbs of oil pressure was hindering it from producing more power as it was robbing combustion but not really sure. We were also possibly thinking of tapping a oil pressure regulator or a flow control into the pressure line on the side of the block to reduce the oil pressure and see if it has a little more power. I had to fix the air brakes a while back so its been a off and on project for the last year. The mechanics and me were also wondering if the D333 with the turbo revved a little higher than the 3306 and maybe this would cause the transmission pressures to be different and make it a little slower and slip some?

 

[Enzo304]

I did but it has issues. It doesn't have quite the power that the owner seems to think it used to with the d333. Even though the hp is close to the same maybe the turbo gave it a snappier response. It moves good and has quite a bit of torque but I think it could dig better also. The owner seems to think that it would spin all 4 tires when digging into a pile of dirt but I don't see that happening with a 32,000 lb machine. It still has 100 lbs of oil pressure which is a little issue but it runs. I was discussing it with some mechanics and was possibly thinking that maybe 100lbs of oil pressure was hindering it from producing more power as it was robbing combustion but not really sure. We were also possibly thinking of tapping a oil pressure regulator or a flow control into the pressure line on the side of the block to reduce the oil pressure and see if it has a little more power. I had to fix the air brakes a while back so its been a off and on project for the last year. The mechanics and me were also wondering if the D333 with the turbo revved a little higher than the 3306 and maybe this would cause the transmission pressures to be different and make it a little slower and slip some?

thanks for your response , I bought a 966 machine two weeks ago and I got to know some days ago that it's a 1967 966B. The machine runs fine with enough power. I want to know whether the engine parts are readily available like 3306 and whether the engine is workable just like the 3306 engine

 

[ferrret3238]

Parts are available but they're scarce and expensive. The crankshaft was bad on the D333 and cost $2000 for a new one. The ones on ebay won't work, They screwed up listing them and the journals are different somehow. The 3306 is a really common engine and parts are readily available. The whole 3306 was $1000 compared to just a crank for $2000 so it was a no brainer to put a different engine in.

 

[ferrret3238]

Hello all again, I'm back to working on the 966B again. It doesn't have the get up and go as it used to so I'm looking at a rebuild. It has a lot of blowby and is sending oil out the exhaust so I think the oil control rings are shot. Could it possibly something with the valves too? The engine has a tag on it that says
SER# 23C02271 3306
AR# 1n2469 Perf spec OT3188
Power 150Hp
The block number is 7N5456.
Not sure if its a "n" in the AR# cause the tag was scratched up a little bit. Been looking at a kit for this engine with a Kit # 3306 8N3182. Was wondering if anybody has info on the kit and if the parts in it will work for my 3306?

 

[Nige]

Engine Arrangement Number is actually 1W-2469. See attached.
8N-3182 is listed as a piston body for a lower compression (17.5:1) engine. Your engine is 21:1 compression ratio and uses an 8N-3184 Piston Body