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Cat no 12 grader starter conversion

Jakebreak

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IMG_1278.JPG The pony motor finally went belly up on me a few months ago I found an electric starter conversion kit for it that came in this week I started last night tearing into it I didn't get very far into when I had to go help the brother in law pull a calf from one of his heifers here are some photos with more to come. I'm trying to decide if I want to pull the pony motor completely off and maybe put the batteries where the pony used to be instead of putting them on axles. Looking at it doesn't seem like its not to involved in pulling it off I could be wrong IMG_1280.JPG IMG_1281.JPG IMG_1282.JPG
 

old-iron-habit

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Removing the pony motor and installing the batteries in it place is very common. Being in Bakersfield you are in a hot bed of old Cat aficionado's. Don't throw your old pony away. Folks are often looking for parts. Your 12 must be new enough to have the starter hole machined in the bell housing already. That makes for a lot easier conversion when you don't have to make a jig and cut the hole in the casting yourself. 318 engine?
 

Jakebreak

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IMG_1285.JPG Yes it does have the 318 engine in it the company I got the kit from sent me a boring template and a 3 3/4" hole saw for the starter to fit the block but by looking at the hole I'm not 100% sure if I need to drill the hole I will have to get the starter out and fit it my plan is to try and sell the pony motor and the old genarator for parts if I can find someone who would want it. In the picture it looks like the starter will fit and possibly the bolt holes lining up without having to bore a hole and tap new bolt holes
 
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old-iron-habit

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That is the starter hole. If you have trouble for the ACMOC forum and in the discussion forum there is a sticky on top of the first page that has tone of information on conversions to direct start. You can make a log in for free. Some require the base of the starter to be indexed differently for the solenoid to clear. I also believe you need to grind a small relief at the back bolt and use a small headed 12 point bolt to get a socket on it to tighten. Old Magnet whom frequents this forum wrote the book (literally) on conversions. He has forgot more than I will ever know.
 

Jakebreak

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Gotcha I will have to go and check out that website hopefully old magnet will get some time to check it out and lend some pointers I was thinking that I should go down and pick up some 12 point bolts I had to go down today and get some for the gear driven alternator the top bolts fit but the bottom one doesn't theirs not enough clearance on the housing for a regular 6 point bolt so I just picked up 3 of them so their all the same. Right now I'm thinking of leaving the pony motor in place and mount the batteries on each side of the frame just so I can get it back up and running their wanting a bunch of their roads graded so they can build fence for the cattle before it gets to hot I appreciate all the advice
 

Jakebreak

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I got the new alternator put on tonight it I'm hoping sometime this week I can get ahold of some batteries and trays and maybe possibly putting the starter on this weekend but it is easter weekend here is a picture of the new gear driven alternatorIMG_1289.JPG
 

Jakebreak

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auto-lec rebuilders out of Sherman tx they have kits for graders and dozers it came with gear driven alternator, starter, amp gauge, starter button 10 ft of 0 wire, hole saw, bolts and all the cable ends to make the cables up
 

Jakebreak

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IMG_1292.JPG Well the good news is I don't have to bore a hole for my starter it already has one starter fits nice but I got the wrong bolts today so I didn't even get to put it on oh well next week
 

Jakebreak

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In my service manual I got for this grader I'm curious as to where I can drain the radiator fluid and oil out of the pony motor the manual isn't real clear on how to do that I don't really want to drain the whole cooling system for the engine or all the oil out of the main it's my understanding that oil is separate and the coolant runs through the block to the pony motor
 

Old Magnet

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Look for the pony oil drain spigot on the other side from the starter. Comes out of the flywheel housing.
Block drain is the plug in the side of the block by the governor.
 

Jakebreak

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Look for the pony oil drain spigot on the other side from the starter. Comes out of the flywheel housing.
Block drain is the plug in the side of the block by the governor.
Gotcha I will check it out hopefully this weekend it's been hot here 112-114 all week thanks for the help I'm hoping to pull the pony soon and get all my cover plates and battery tray made up so I can use the machine again
 

Jakebreak

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I was able to pull the pony motor this weekend I was wondering since I drained the fluid out of the pony motor do can I leave that housing dry that was used to lubricate the pony motor or should it be filled back up I'm not sure if it's part of the main engine
 

Old Magnet

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You will need to block off the water passages only. The floor of the pony motor is the flywheel housing. The oil drain just passes through. No need to replace oil in that passage.
 

Jakebreak

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You will need to block off the water passages only. The floor of the pony motor is the flywheel housing. The oil drain just passes through. No need to replace oil in that passage.
Ok I'm having our machine shop make me up some block off plates for the water passages and where the pony motor used to set at so I can put my batteries there thanks for the info I got a little bit of antifreeze got into where the oil was at I wasn't sure if I need to refill it also to would you or anybody that you know might be interested in this pony motor for parts
 

Old Magnet

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Doesn't seem to be much market for D318 pony motors. Best bet would be to advertise in the parts for sale section of the ACMOC (Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club) bulletin board. You should consider joining anyway.
 

Jakebreak

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Doesn't seem to be much market for D318 pony motors. Best bet would be to advertise in the parts for sale section of the ACMOC (Antique Caterpillar Machinery Owners Club) bulletin board. You should consider joining anyway.
Thanks for your help I joined acmoc beginning of may I just haven't been on there much I wasn't sure if there was much of a market for that motor or even for parts I have read a bunch of your threads on doing the conversions I appreciate your advice have you ever messed with these types of graders much I was curious how hard it would be to try and get the brakes working again on itwould be nice to have since I do a lot in rolling hills
 

Jakebreak

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The hardest part is pulling the brake drums to get access.
that's what I was afraid of I don't know when the last time the wheels were off let alone the brake drums I know the master cylinder needs rebuilt or a new one not to mention I'm pretty sure the brake lines are more than likely corroded up for not being used in a long time
 

Jakebreak

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I finally got time to wire up the grader engine spins like a top only problem its not getting enough fuel bleed the system cause I figured I might of got air in the system but the light came on and I figured it out I need to see if I can get new fuel filters for this thing not sure if what's in there are strainers and if I can clean them up and flush the system IMG_1448.JPG
 
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