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CAT 977 been sitting for 21 years

fourwheelinj1

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Joined
Jan 14, 2016
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62
Location
nc
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Project Manager
I work for a grading contractor that owns a CAT 977 that they inherited when they bought out another grading company 30 years ago. Anyway they used the 977 very little over the first few years since they already had newer 953 and 963s. I have been told that the 977 always would fire right up after sitting for long periods even years as long as they put new batteries in it. Anyway the last time they used it was 1996 doing hurricane cleanup using the large hydraulic winch that is on the back of the 977. The owner and main operator here said it ran fine when they parked it but they never needed it again so it has sat in our yard here in the same spot for the last 21 years. Anyway now they are getting some more equipment and have decided the 977 needs to go. They have asked an equipment broker we use to find a buyer for it. i have my doubts that he is really interested in spending his time on something that might be scrap or parts after sitting for 21 years. If the broker isn't interested in it I think my boss would give it to me if I would haul it away. We have a 350+ acre family farm and something like this would be handy at times. I know that the machine is way bigger than what we need and 953 or similar would be a much better fit, but free is hard to pass up sometimes. So the question is do you guys think it would be worth it to sink some time and money into seeing if I can get the old beast running again? It appears to be in decent shape for a 50+ year old machine. The paint in flaking bad from sitting in the weather and one cylinder looks like it has been leaking/seeping for a while. One of my biggest concerns is that the track chain on one side is kinked pretty good. The operator here said that it did that once before long ago and they used our CAT 330 to knock/push the kink out. Not to sure about how that works. Other than the kink the chains and sprockets don't look very worn. So what do you guys think? By the way i am not looking to spend 10k+ to get it usable so if it won't crank with new batteries, fresh fuel, and some tinkering i may just pass on it too. Thoughts?
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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16,436
Location
Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
977 is a beast, what series H,K, L? H would be seriously in jeopardy of parts availability as is become considerably obsolete, Still lots of them around and still working. K&L lots of parts and materials still at hand. Roughly 38-42000 lb machine, a little awkward to get used to but once in hand can be quite useful. A kink in dry pin rails is just from remaining on a idler or sprocket long enough for rust to set the link pin to bushing or bushing to link ears and should work out.
 

fourwheelinj1

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Joined
Jan 14, 2016
Messages
62
Location
nc
Occupation
Project Manager
BEB49A5E-E825-468C-8136-80FEAC2B07D7.jpeg Not sure on the model I think it might be a H. Where can I find a serial number plate?
 

CavinJim

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Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
170
Location
Missouri
Holy cow! Look at the sharp angles on those grousers! One hour of work on my rocky acres they'd have more wear than that! Awhile back I had an opportunity to get a running 977 in worse shape than that for about 3 grand. It didn't fit with my needs at the time and it ended up going to the scrap yard. I kick myself for passing that up. Free (well, almost free) is even better! I'd say figure out the scrap price, less hauling, and give it a shot but don't go over that amount. Wouldn't have anything to lose and maybe a lot to gain.
 

DMiller

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Feb 21, 2010
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Hermann, Missouri
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Cheap "old" Geezer
As noted H, rail shoes are in great shape, should check the wear on pins and bushings before get too enthusiastic with dry pins a little rust goes a long way in eating the wear rate up. If a freebie get it running and haul it before they know its gone. Parts will be scarce but if you behave with it should last awhile and at the price well worth it.
 

spitzair

Senior Member
Joined
May 4, 2007
Messages
1,009
Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
I have 2 of these things and absolutely love them! The tracks on that one look good, and overall looks nice and straight. Both of mine had sat for a long time since the owner passed away and both fired up with fresh batteries. Parts can be bought from Offroad Equipment, haven't had any issues finding parts (yet) for mine... Too bad it's not closer, I'd take it off your hands in a flash! The hydraulic winch is a big bonus too, one of my machines has one and so far I haven't found anything yet that it won't pull! Keep us posted.
 

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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11,129
Location
Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
I'd be tempted to just give it a try just for fun. Maybe see if there is some easy place to get a wrench or bar on the engine first to see if it is free. If it does turn I'd go for a couple revolutions just for peace of mind.

If it is a pony start I'm sure there are some who can advise on that. Same thing make sure it will turn by hand if possible. Maybe some kind of lube down the spark plug holes to soak over night or so.
 

old-iron-habit

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Nov 22, 2012
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4,233
Location
Moose Lake, MN
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Retired Cons't. Supt./Hospitals
Grab it. Cat will probably have anything you will ever need for it. It is amazing how many parts they still make and carry. Not sure what pump that one has but might have to pull the cover off and make sure the plungers are not stuck. If its a pony start report back and I can give you some pointers about starting and running them. Check out the ACMOC board for more information from experts than any of us can digest on older Cats. As Kshansen said turn the engine a couple revolutions before you try to start it. Also be sure to have a piece of board or some means to choke of the air intake in case it takes off and runs wild. Take the top of so you can plug of the air. Things sticking in the fuel system can cause that to happen.

EDIT: The kinky tracks will likely free right up with a little running. Kinky tracks are often a sign of like new track rails, they don't get tight very often in well worn tracks..
 

spitzair

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Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
Like OIH says most if not all parts are still available, and quickly too if need be. When I repaired the engine in one of my 977s my dad accidentally destroyed the nice new head gasket I bought from Offroad, he was trying to help and clean up a bit, cut and bent the box it was in in half without first looking inside... Only after it didn't fold in half like he expected after cutting the box did he realize the new gasket was still in there. Since I was in a time crunch I called up the local cat dealer and he got one going right away from the main warehouse, this was December 23rd, I had the new one on the 26th! Another time I needed a master pin for the tracks and they had one in stock!
 

fourwheelinj1

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Jan 14, 2016
Messages
62
Location
nc
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Project Manager
Ok so help me with some step by step instructions. I am have experience with smaller gas engines and understand the basics on diesels. I have a mechanic that helps with big stuff but I would like to try to get it started myself before I start paying for his help.

1. Turn engine over by hand if possible. On a car/truck I would pull spark plugs and put a rachet/breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt. What's different for a diesel? Standing in front of machine looking at front of engine is it clockwise rotation?
2. Put new batteries in. I haven't seen a pony motor. Check oil and coolant.
3. Drain old fuel install fresh fuel, crack injector lines open at each cylinder.
4. Heat glow plugs.
5. Crank engine over until get fuel out of lines. Tighten lines.
6. Crank engine and pray it starts.

Anything else?
 

Delmer

Senior Member
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Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,865
Location
WI
You should be able to turn the crankshaft by hand if you can reach the fan, pulley, belt? It will turn a tiny bit until compression builds in a cylinder, let it bleed down a couple seconds and turn it again. If it goes two turns that way then it's fine. Maybe check the oil drain plug for water, loosen it until you get a drip and wait for a few drops of oil, no water and you're good to go.

I wouldn't drain the diesel, if the fuel is bad then the tank needs to be cleaned usually. Use a jug, or boat tank and run some temporary lines to the transfer pump, or wherever the supply goes first. Use #1 or a mix of #2 and cetane boost. I wouldn't open the injector lines. Follow the priming procedure for the filters, and injection pump if you know the procedure. Know the shut off procedure before you crank it, and have the backup that Old Iron Habit mentioned.
 

catman13

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Aug 22, 2011
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435
Location
oregon usa
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refrigeration engineer/excavation contractor
( 1 ) check motor for roll over
( 2 ) check motor oil and see if it is over full , this would tell if there is water in it.
( 3 ) just check the fuel tank for water and if the fuel looks good put battery's in it just try it and go form there .
( 4 ) if it starts try and drive it , and you have a new TOY .
 

spitzair

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May 4, 2007
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Location
Squamish BC (Home), Slave Lake, AB (Work)
There's a compression release lever on the back of the cylinder head. Looks like the exhaust stack was uncovered so there is potential for water to have gotten in. I would flip the compression release and roll the engine over with the starter just to make sure there's no water in any of the cylinders. This way you'll also circulate some oil through the engine and lube things up before it starts up. Also, this thing uses 2 12V batteries in series to make 24 volts so keep that in mind.
 
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