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Cat 955L saved from being paperclips. Looking for help on tensioners and injectors.
- Thread starter kb9tci
- Start date
I really think that crank will clean up at .010 under. I know the shop I take it to likes to play it safe and take it a bit further. There are no gouges in the crank and the smallest measurement is .006 under. It should clean up. I am going to talk to them Monday and see if they will at least give it a shot. If that can happen I'll still have a savable block in the end to put on the shelf
Nige
Senior Member
If the smallest current measurement of the crank is .006" under then it will almost certainly clean up to .010" under.
Just talked to the grind shop this morning and found out the crank is bent .060! Wowzers! 
They are going to see what they can do to get it back in spec. If they can get it staight, they are going to grind it and see if they can get it cleaned at .010 under.
They are going to see what they can do to get it back in spec. If they can get it staight, they are going to grind it and see if they can get it cleaned at .010 under.
Nige
Senior Member
I may have a procedure for straightening that crank. If you need it send me a PM with your email address. If nothing else you may be able to use it to understand and/or question the grinding shop about how they measured the total bend of the crank as being .060".
Unless the grinding shop can get the crank dead straight (or within less than maybe .001-.002" of being straight) then you can forget my comment above about it cleaning up easily to .010" under.
Unless the grinding shop can get the crank dead straight (or within less than maybe .001-.002" of being straight) then you can forget my comment above about it cleaning up easily to .010" under.
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I would be interested in the procedure. I am passing the point of no return on getting by block refunded, so I will either have to have this crank strait, or go for a new one. I am starting to lose faith I will ever get this gal back going again... :Banghead
Nige
Senior Member
PM me your email address.
Something doesn't seem to gel here.... (at least according to the book I'm looking at which may well be wrong).
955K 71J04007 comes up as having a D330c originally, which would make sense as the machine serial number is stamped into the block as was the way at the time. The changeover to the 3304 (43V) was at serial 71J04558 when they became 955L series.
955K 71J04007 comes up as having a D330c originally, which would make sense as the machine serial number is stamped into the block as was the way at the time. The changeover to the 3304 (43V) was at serial 71J04558 when they became 955L series.
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Something doesn't seem to gel here.... (at least according to the book I'm looking at which may well be wrong).
955K 71J04007 comes up as having a D330c originally, which would make sense as the machine serial number is stamped into the block as was the way at the time. The changeover to the 3304 (43V) was at serial 71J04558 when they became 955L series.
The block castings match. The only thing I noticed different was a oil drain on the side of the block that was in a plate on this new one. I am at crunch time, so today is the last day I can take the block back or keep it. It did come out of an L, but I know there is a lot of confusion between the transition from the K to the small track L machines.
Nige
Senior Member
Send a PM to tctractors. He'll know straight away if there is any reason why the used block you have bought won't be suitable to rebuild your current engine.
tctractors
Senior Member
kb, your engine that you removed from the frame is the 3304 PC engine, that duff block that you bought in good faith needs returning to the owners as it stands a good chance of becoming a Mill Stone, so let them that owned it hang on to it, the only reason they had it on the shelf was its something No one wanted to mess with, you need to be looking for the big lump that runs a bit as the parts cost can soon build up.
good luck tctractors
good luck tctractors
I am going to take your advice and send the overbore block to the grave. Thanks for the input!
Time to knock the dust off this thread again...
I have finally got the gumption (and a little time and funds) to get this machine back in working order. I have stripped down the block that came out of the machine and brought it in to get it line bored. It should be savable. We will find out soon. As soon as there is a green light on the block, I will be ordering a crank and a major overhaul kit and get this thing back to life. I hope.
I have finally got the gumption (and a little time and funds) to get this machine back in working order. I have stripped down the block that came out of the machine and brought it in to get it line bored. It should be savable. We will find out soon. As soon as there is a green light on the block, I will be ordering a crank and a major overhaul kit and get this thing back to life. I hope.
Nitelite
Senior Member
Good to see you back at it kb9, and I thought that I worked slow????
Still sitting in pieces... The block shop may get to line boring this week. Glad I am not in a hurry!! I am going to wait until I get a green light from him before I order the rest of the parts. Anyone have a good crank laying around? Found some new ones not horribly priced.
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Well, After half a coon's age, I finally have a bock back!!!
They were able to cut caps and move the bore a smidgen (0.007") and got it to clean up. I am now going to get the crank ordered and get this project restarted. Again.
They were able to cut caps and move the bore a smidgen (0.007") and got it to clean up. I am now going to get the crank ordered and get this project restarted. Again.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
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- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
While your waiting on the crank I remove all the plugs from that block and get out your gun cleaning kit and clean out all the bores. Are you going to be replacing the cam bearings? If so while the bearings are out make sure the bores for oil to them are also spotless.
Any chance the shop that did the linebore job has checked the counter bores for the liners. Be best to be sure they are right before you spend too much time cleaning as if they do need to be cut you will need to clean things again.
Any chance the shop that did the linebore job has checked the counter bores for the liners. Be best to be sure they are right before you spend too much time cleaning as if they do need to be cut you will need to clean things again.