CAT 955K TURNS over but wont run.

[Themaskman72]

It is just a pin holding the linkage. I'm going to check it today and get some better pics.

 

[AllDodge]

Looks the same as mine, and leaning toward its not the pump but time and testing will tell.

I link the big pics because there show more detail

 

[Themaskman72]

Also I have gotten fuel at the pcs while bleeding with the primer, have not bled the fuel lines by turning it over, guess I should have did that to ensure pump and everything was actually functioning.

 

[AllDodge]

Also I have gotten fuel at the pcs while bleeding with the primer, have not bled the fuel lines by turning it over, guess I should have did that to ensure pump and everything was actually functioning.

Very much so. After changing some fuel line items on mine it was a bear to start. My problem was just getting all the air out and being new at the time I was doing it the hard way by my self

 

[CavinJim]

Splined shaft and splined lever can go on 24 diff. ways

Ah, yeah, didn't think about that last night. But consider this--from the crud on the pump there's no indication that anything has been removed or changed since the machine was running. TMM has enough to deal with regarding vanishing coolant and potential other damage from a freeze. I still think it's best to fix known problems before chasing after might-be's. Just my two pennies.

 

[Shimmy1]

Also I have gotten fuel at the pcs while bleeding with the primer, have not bled the fuel lines by turning it over, guess I should have did that to ensure pump and everything was actually functioning.

Umm, yeah?? If you have not bled fuel out by cranking, maybe the pump isn't even sending fuel?

 

[CavinJim]

Back at post #15:

Btw I cracked the fuel lines at the injectors and turned the engine over, all lines push fuel out, the second back appears to be pushing a lot of air bubbles out also, the others straight fuel, thanks.

TMM is getting fuel out when it's cranked. He's also reported smoke when cranking. Give the pump a break.

 

[Shimmy1]

Well, he may have said that in post #15, but in post #163 he says he hasn't bled the lines by turning it over, so which is it????

 

[Themaskman72]

Sorry, should have been more clear in my last few posts, originally before I started pulling pcs and replacing seals and so on I did bleed the lines while cranking, since I've pulled the pcs and replaced all the seals and put it all back in I have only bled with the primer. I got the cracked part in and gonna try and get it installed tomorrow along with doing the checking of the valves and pushrods, also gonna fill the coolant system and bleed fuel lines at the pcs while cranking then run another coolant pressure test and see where we are. Let me know if there are any other things that you guys think I should check or take pics of, thanks.

 

[Themaskman72]

I got about an hour before it got dark tonight to work on the 955L and I pulled the valve cover and turned it over and everything looks like it is moving properly, nothing as far as the mechanical end looked out of order or improper, that being said There was water inside. I took a couple pics and a video I'm gonna try to load. Let me know what you think.

 

[Themaskman72]

Says video file is too big to load. Looking down in where the pushrods are while turning it over it looks like water at the bottom of the push rod.

 

[thepumpguysc]

You can load it to utube and put a link on here.. don't ask me how.. I've just seen it done, someone else did it..

 

[Themaskman72]

 

[Themaskman72]

Thanks pumpguy!

 

[kshansen]

Not sure what others would say but I sure would be tempted to wash everything on the top side with fuel oil leaving drain plug out. Maybe fill a garden sprayer with fuel oil to spray down the push rod holes. Then let it set over night with drain open and before putting valve cover on fill cooling system and pressure test again and look for any signs of leaks, The if that look good dump some fresh oil down the push rod holes before putting the valve cover back on. Replace oil filter with new and see if it will start. If it does start I would only run a short time to warm it up a little and change oil and filter a second time. If it is still running run a little warmer to get good and warm and at least one more oil change. Sure the oil and filters will cost a bit but that would be cheap compared to a major failure.

 

[Themaskman72]

Now that I know how to do that, is there anything that I can do to help you guys help me by taking video?

 

[Shimmy1]

Hate to say it, but it sure sounds like at least one cylinder is compromised, maybe two. I thought you had new batteries and starter?

 

[kshansen]

Just listened to the video, sounds like the batteries are dying very fast. Even a good running engine would have trouble starting turning that slow.

 

[Themaskman72]

That sounds good, I agree about the cost of the oil changes in stead of having a major failure. I have also confirmed today that it was a new head installed and not a new block. About 80-100 hrs ago.

 

[Themaskman72]

Well it was like 30 outside and I thought of doing the video after turning it over a couple times without the charger hooked up. They are new batteries and a New starter. I am using a car charger to charge them, I have them in the machine hooked up and I put the red clamp on the bottom battery + and the black clamp on the machine, is that right or do I need to do something else to get the batteries back up?