CAT 955K TURNS over but wont run.

[Themaskman72]

Here's a couple of my chargers I'm using.View attachment 164891 View attachment 164891 View attachment 164892

 

[56wrench]

sorry, i wasn't clear. i was referring to the newer 1 piece gaskets and not the old multi-piece. i always re-use the brass water directors but not the grommets on them. coolant may be leaking from a pinched grommet or if the recess isn"t cleaned real good. sometimes the recesses can be quite pitted

 

[Themaskman72]

Here's a couple short videos to update you guys on where I am with the 955L right now, thanks.

 

[kshansen]

Here's a couple short videos to update you guys on where I am with the 955L right now, thanks.

Not sure what the problem is with the videos, both come up after a time saying Error.

Did that water start leaking from exhaust after you filled the coolant? Is it in fact coolant? Or is water getting in the exhaust somehow? This really does not look good! If you have not tried cranking the engine over with that water in there DON"T!!!!! You will have more problems.

If that is not the coolant but water that somehow got in the exhaust system remove all fuel injector nozzles, not the prechamber just the nozzles that are about the size of your thumb. Once they are all out crank engine over slow by hand a couple turns. If it turns okay that way try spinning it over with the starter to blow any water out.

I might now try spraying about half a can of something like WD40 in each cylinder and let it set a short time then crank over with the nozzles still out with the battery again. Once it stops blowing stuff out the prechambers then you could reinstall nozzles and try to start it. Also fix what ever allowed the water to get in there in the first place!

If that is coolant that started coming out the exhaust while filling radiator you might have two choices neither of which you will like. First walk away and forget this machine. Second start shopping around for a good running used engine. I would not be comfortable trying to patch this one short of a total tear down checking block, head, coolers and so on for damage from freezing.

 

[Themaskman72]

 

[Themaskman72]

It didn't start coming out until I filled the coolant.

 

[Nitelite]

At some point you are going to have to at least pull the engine head. If the hood is already off it is not that big of a job, might as well get those wrenches out and get started. I would first remove the glow plugs and spin the engine to get a clue as to if it is one cylinder or all of them. You can also fab up threaded pluming to screw into the glow plug holes and put about 100 lbs air pressure on the cylinders, one at a time, to see where the water comes out. You might also drain the oil and leave the plug out to see if the water goes to the oil pan. CAUTION, remove the radiator cap before putting air into the cylinders. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Themaskman72]

Yea nite I came to the same conclusion. I'm planning to pull the head and have it machined and of course all new gaskets. To this point I haven't had any water/coolant in the oil pan other than a very small amount I credit to condensation. The things I've fixed thus far needed to be fixed anyway so I'm sorta glad to get to the main issue. I will post detailed pics of everything as I tear it down so you guys can get a good look at the internals. Thanks.

 

[AllDodge]

I hope there is no water in the oil, if there was you might not notice it. Water floats to the bottom and checking the dip stick would not show it.

 

[Themaskman72]

Yea I've opened the drain plug on the oil pan twice, first time I got about an ounce, nothing the second time, checked it 2 weeks apart.

 

[AllDodge]

Yep my bad, remember you checking that now

 

[kshansen]

At some point you are going to have to at least pull the engine head. If the hood is already off it is not that big of a job, might as well get those wrenches out and get started. I would first remove the glow plugs and spin the engine to get a clue as to if it is one cylinder or all of them. You can also fab up threaded pluming to screw into the glow plug holes and put about 100 lbs air pressure on the cylinders, one at a time, to see where the water comes out. You might also drain the oil and leave the plug out to see if the water goes to the oil pan. CAUTION, remove the radiator cap before putting air into the cylinders. Just my 2 cents worth.

Well I'll add 1 or 2 cents of my own to what I already said.

If you are going to do as Nitelite says and put air into the cylinders, one at a time, I would start by removing the rocker arms to make sure all the valves are closed. Or you could just back off the adjusters enough to let you pull out the push tubes. As I recall the rocker assembly of these engines are held on with four of the head bolts, so leaving them tight for this "pressure test" might be a good idea.

Hate to be a "Negative Nancy" on this engine's prospects but would not get my hopes up too high at his point and be prepared for the worst outcome. If at it appears this machine was parked with straight water in the cooling system one could be chasing all kinds of problems from ice cracking things. It makes me sick to think how someone could destroy a piece of equipment all to save the price of a meal or two at MacDonalds. Or even worse if they knew it had straight water in the system something a simple as opening a drain valve on the bottom of the radiator!

My old Farmall was low on coolant this summer one time I needed it to mow the lawn and I did not have any coolant so to get to work I topped it off with straight water. It probably had about 1/2 the normal amount of anti-freeze in it from doing that so when I parked it for the winter I just drained the system and will refill with fresh 50/50 coolant in the spring. Remove one pipe plug and saved a 68 year old engine from destruction!

 

[Themaskman72]

Ok guys I have an update....finally got time to pull the head hoping for just a blown gasket. The pics show what I discovered. Head gasket looked ok and in tact. My question, is there anything salvageable on this head.....valves, springs, etc..?

 

[AllDodge]

Man that is a bummer. There might be some parts reusable, but need to find a used head first. Once you have a used one, then try to see what can be used from it to rebuild, then use what is needed from this one to make up the difference

 

[Themaskman72]

I found a reman CAT 8N1188 Head for $500 but it comes bare with just new valve guides. I was wondering if the valves and springs in this head would work or if this is one of those things that need to bought New every time you have to change heads?

 

[Shimmy1]

Old valves in new guides might be ok on a machine that won't see a lot of hours.

 

[Themaskman72]

I'm just gonna use it to clear some of my land and maybe cut a driveway, not gonna be putting it to work fulltime. When I get this old girl purring again I'm gonna keep her in good shape because to this point doesn't look like she's gotten the tlc she deserves.

 

[DMiller]

Your head has been run hot and dry, look close at the liners for scuffing, may not have gotten that deep but could have. I could trust the valves springs but I would be hesitant without cleanup and crack/stress inspection of the valves, you put the old ones in a new head and drop a valve head you just ruined your repairs PLUS.

Go with the reman but look to replacing the valves with it. Cheap investment. If the liners are really slick and shiny may be losing compression as well by the rings.

 

[Nige]

TBH the value of new valves, springs, etc, should be nowhere near the cost of the head itself. I wouldn't put used valves in new guides if it was mine, and unless the valve springs were really low hours no way would they go back. Once you get past those items you only have the rotators & valve keepers. As you said this machine has been short of some TLC and you just got elected ...........

Regarding the Reman head, check on the Core Credit ciriteria before you start jumping up & down. I'm not sure a cracked head would qualify for Core Credit, so you'd end up paying new price (Reman + Core Credit = New Price) for what could well be a refurbished head. Just saying ...........

 

[DMiller]

If the head supplier you are looking at will not accept this head as a core call these guys:

http://www.chapincylinderhead.com/

They specialize in weld repaired heads, may need to send them your photos to see if they may accept it or not. Are in Chapin IL.