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CASE W14 Loader

Discussion in 'Wheel Loaders' started by elektorus, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. elektorus

    elektorus Member

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    Nov 21, 2012
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    EU
    Hello to everyone,
    i 've been reading you for very long time, but now decided to join (looks like very nice crowd here :notworthy)

    I am considering buying a old CASE W14 loader built 1978. Do you have any usefull advices what to look up, what are weak points of this machine etc, anny advice would be welcomed.

    Also there is an option that i am considering to buy JD 544B loader, so let me hear your opinion which is better, and why. Price is the same.

    I am living in EU, but i kinda like US steel... that is why i am considering it...

    Once again, anny advice is more than welcomed....
     
  2. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    QLD Australia
    Re the W14 -
    Look for wear at the articulation joint & steering cylinders.
    Give the transmission a good work out if you can - be sure it drives the same cold & at operating temperature.
    I guess this can be counted as good advice even for the JD .....
     
  3. elektorus

    elektorus Member

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    Thanks for your reply, can annybody please tell me how to test the transmission specifically on this machine ? what are other weak points of this machine?
     
  4. sheepfoot

    sheepfoot Senior Member

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    To do it right you need a wrench with you, start with engine idle speed (725-775 rpm), then high speed no load (2330-2370 rpm). Next set your main on the loader hydraulic control valve to 2200+/-50 psi at 2200 rpm. Next you need to do a converter stall test 2150-2250 rpm/hydraulic stall test 2150-2250 rpm/ combined converter and hyd stall test1600-1750 rpm. You will need a strobe tac to due this. The clutch pressure tests are as follows low idle N/F/H/R record readings, same again at the 1800 rpm range record readings. Next is pressure out of the torque converter tests are as follows low idle N/F/H/R record readings. same again at the 1800 rpm range record readings. OIL temp 140-165. remove the temp sender on the trans, install test hose and gauge 300 psi for the pressure out tests. Remove pressure switch/pipe plug on end of control valve to do pressure tests, install test hose and 300psi gauge. Once again we are dealing with a machine 30 yrs old and is not new. The machine has a high and low range, some while in low you have to pull up on the lever to shift to high, the machine has a tt Allison in it. Alway's use the rt brake pedal while testing, park brake/lt brake has a clutch cutout that will dump pressure if used.These are the tests that a dealer would use to check condition for a customer and should not take more than two hrs for a good tech, filter change and sump screen change would add more time if needed also. You are looking at 138-165 psi on clutches and 65 psi on converter out, more info if needed.
     
  5. elektorus

    elektorus Member

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    Thanks for info but the problem is that it is very ackward to go trying machine and take wrenches and gauges with me, after all it is 35 years old machine etc...
    So my question is, can i do inspection in somewhat simplier method? for example just using tacho, and gauges that are in the cab and brakes... annyway machine is priced ca 6k and looks like a good bargain ... anny advice more then welcomed... JD 544 is off too bd shaped, so i am thinking Case would be fine... Anny data of this type machine is appreciated...
     
  6. sheepfoot

    sheepfoot Senior Member

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    Engine 336BD, around 85 hp, drum brakes, 1.5 to 1 3/4 yard bucket, around 18,000 pounds depending on tires,bucket,weights,cab. Check fluid levels, start machine warm up, release parking brake and shift to low range, move forward and apply rt hand brake pedal, will it stop? do the same in reverse will it stop. Next find a light slope to park the machine on and release the parking brake,while in netural, will it hold?. Move machine to a dirt pile and load bucket in low, will it spin the tires while loading the bucket?.While holding it in the pile raiseing the loader and putting power to the ground with the trans does the engine pull way down, will it drive up or back up a hill with a loaded bucket?. If there is enough room, try to shift into high range and road it some, any bad sounds?. Move machine to a safe area away from people,pets,cars, buildings just in case it will not stop or parking brake will not hold while testing. You also sit and drive from the loader end so make sure you know where your butt is at all times. Gauges may not work due to harness,bulbs,sending units. Don't be scared to run it, it may heat,slow down,stop working, better there than at your place.
     
  7. Mike Van

    Mike Van Well-Known Member

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    Have someone in the cab move the wheel from side to side [running] Watch the joint pins to see how loose they are, it's a major job if they're shot. Don't get pinched in there -
     
  8. AT&SW

    AT&SW Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    equipment owner/operator
    Location:
    central Fl
    We own a W14 and use it at our sawmill for loading and unloading trucks, stacking burn piles, and other daily duties have been very happy with it. Biggest expense have been hoses.
     
  9. Jim D

    Jim D Senior Member

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    It depends on what you need a loader for/to do. If it sits in a yard and loads trucks, it'll do just fine. I wouldn't buy an old loader like that and expect to drive it off-road...

    We have a couple of W14's. All they do is load sand trucks, 30 or 40 days a year. Can't beat them, for their price.

    If you can find a W14-B for a good price, buy that instead. They have a Cummins 6BT, Clark (I think) 3 speed trans, air over fluid disc brakes, third valve in all of them that I've seen.
     
  10. elektorus

    elektorus Member

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    I need this loader for loading trucks (small 5 ton trucks) and efectively it will work for 3 hour max per day, that is why i am going low budget, i am aware that it is very old machine, but there simply is no economic reason to buy more expensive machine. If annybody knows... how is situation with spare parts, specially for transmission, how much does cost tranny rebuilding kit ?
     
  11. Jim D

    Jim D Senior Member

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    I don't know about spare parts, i've never bought any. We've run two w-14's and a w-14B for more that 10 years and except for fluids and filters, the only repair I can remember is a treadle valve for the air brakes on the 14B. Our machines run about a 100 hrs per year.

    I very much doubt it would be worth it to rebuild a transmission in a Case machine that old. The value of the machine is too little. Drive it gently till it breaks and then buy another cheep machine.

    Some one near me runs two W-14's for snow removal, also very limited use per year, and they look like they haven't had any bolts turned on them in many years.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  12. Cat_man320

    Cat_man320 Well-Known Member

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    I had old 14s for years . Swing pins are a torment . They wear quickly if not greased religiously , the motor is so so , it can't take revs . I took my old engine out and installed a 471 Jimmy . It was a little slower but i had reliability fro almost 15 yrs before I sold it . Make sure your wheel planetaries are full . Bucket pins tend to wear a lot because the bushings are not stout enough . If your using it winter time in sub zero temps , make sure your throttle cable is new or working excellent , they have a tendency to freze up winter time
     
  13. Peter_H

    Peter_H Well-Known Member

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    Do you folks still own the Case W-14. If you do please contact me. Thanks
     
  14. Peter_H

    Peter_H Well-Known Member

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    Jim: Do you still own those Case W-14 loaders? If you do, please contact me. I have a question for you. Thanks.
     
  15. Jim D

    Jim D Senior Member

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    Yes, but I can't see how to PM
     
  16. Peter_H

    Peter_H Well-Known Member

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    Jim: Email me directly at pholmander@gmail.com
     
  17. Peter_H

    Peter_H Well-Known Member

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    Jim: The reason I was asking if you still had the W-14 loader is I have a complete service manual that I would like to sell very cheaply. I would like to see someone who can use the manual have it. I actually have two of them, but one is in a little better shape than the other. Both are complete. Email me if you are interested or if you know of a W-14 owner who might be interested. Thanks