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CASE 580SK Project

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by AU.CASE, Nov 29, 2011.

  1. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Hi all,

    It has been some time so I thought I'd actually upload some action on my CASE's!

    Have been very busy using my machines around the DIY sheep station here so now that most of the bugs are ironed out, it is time to get some production done and that has been happening faultlessly.

    As we have a small gap in the property work, I decided to make ready a cheap JCB bucket I bought online from our local Council asset reduction.

    Wanting a narrow bucket (to bury pipes and particularly a power cable job that is waiting), that doesn't disturb too much ground, as most places I have to back fill by hand where it is tight.

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09668.JPG

    The JCB is a handy 8" unit, like new but of course the ears are totally different from my CASE 580SK.

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09677.JPG

    Not to be put off as I have a swag of stock already and decided to get machining and welding.

    The pins in the adaptor (or as my "trouble and strife" says correctly 'coupler') are K10-50 piston shaft from my 1150D and an front idler shaft from same.

    Some bore pipe and ½" plate is all that is needed.

    Next part follows...

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09670.JPG
     
  2. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    It took several days to make, off an on but I think it will be worth the effort, especially since I would have to drive about 180 miles to even look at any buckets.

    Will get the spray gun busy once I can be sure it is all ready to paint.

    This photo is a fitting test, with it all just tacked together.

    I used AWI Low Hydrogen rods to build it, mostly 8G and some 12G for the finer stuff, there wasn't any distortion as the pins still fitted into the JCB bucket like normal, so that was ok.

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09690.JPG

    Took it for a spin in the side of a small waterhole just in front of the house tonight and although it was wet clay, it always seemed to empty which was good, because I can see how the small buckets bog up and become a nuisance.

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09680.JPG

    Worked out a few rocks and because of the reach, it seemed to get to a metre deep really easily.

    CASE-2-JCB.Adaptor-111111-DSC09699.JPG

    The adaptor is in for testing and the finish is phosphoric acid, hence strange look to it all.

    Cheers all, will report back with a few other little jobs I have knocked over recently too!
     
  3. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
    Location:
    QLD Australia
    No doubt about you AU!
    Now just don't put the bucket through the boom....... :rolleyes:
     
  4. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Occupation:
    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Emergency radiator repair

    Thanks alrman!

    Both my machines have had radiator leaks this year!

    The 1150D always had a weep, the seller said (1996) that he had the radiator rebuilt and the core inverted, but they didn't pressure test it after re-soldering the cores' at both ends, so his solution was to leave the radiator cap loose, which isn't much good, but I noticed it took up over time - read on.

    A bright idea I had recently was to pressure clean the radiator when I was servicing everything and this dislodged a heap of dirt in the foot of the core at the front, then when I filled the new coolant it was running out fairly quickly, somehow the build up was sealing the radiator and the cooling system only needed a couple of litres per year.

    Deciding that the removal of the radiator was much too huge of a job, I cleaned and dried the area down with compressed air and filled it with silicone.

    Letting it cure for twenty four hours, it has held well and I have done about ten hours with normal cooling system temperatures and pressures' so all seems ok.

    CASE-1150D_RADIATOR.COCK-TOOL-080811-DSC09066.JPG

    Dodgy idea, but it works, if the silicon is put on very clean surfaces it will tolerate the job well.

    The backhoe radiator developed a lower tank leak right at the front, just below all the grass and rubbish that was in between the cores'.

    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-111111DSC09497.JPG

    When I went digging I found a mass of grass and debris between the cores and about ½" of seam leak in the front that had been previously repaired in Brisbane according to the sticker, dated 2005, which I noticed they somehow removed the core to the rear and damaged the oil cooler both ways, so I spent about twenty minutes straightening all the fins of the oil cooler that the repairer bent both up and down.

    Same again, cleaned the area where the weep was and spread a good thick layer of silicone in there and let it cure for 24 hours.

    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-111111DSC09501.JPG
     
  5. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    Silicone supposed to be good for 20yrs.... I wouldn't like to think about trying to get that stuff out if a proper repair had to happen.
    BTW - you know that a couple of tablespoons of black pepper will stop a radiator leaking ...... if the leak is not to bad that is.
     
  6. bowen

    bowen Senior Member

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    Location:
    N. GA USA
    Last week someone else told me this and he said it worked for him!
     
  7. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Radiator bodge -> failed :))

    Hi alrman and all,

    Well there is only one way to do a job, properly.

    Went to use my hoe a week ago and noticed a small pool of green under the front diff again!

    Yes the silicon just busted off under pressure, so dodgy repairs nearly always fail, although the weep on my 1150D radiator is holding.

    It isn't very pretty soldering, but once the crack was opened and all the oxide and dirt cleaned out, it sealed quite easily, with the help of another layer of solder, just in case.

    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-160212DSC00071.JPG

    This time I pulled down all the radiators with the help of "she who must be obeyed" with all the experience from the previous time plus a few delays from calls and visitors, it wasn't a long job!

    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-160212DSC00058.JPG

    Thought I would take a few random images of the tear down, not really any reason to remove the counterweight, just did it to get a better look at the leak again and all the loose silicon I stuck to it :nono several months ago.

    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-160212DSC00060.JPG
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    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-160212DSC00064.JPG
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    CASE-580SK.RADIATOR_SEAL-160212DSC00069.JPG
     
  8. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    :pointlaugh Looks like a bomb went off in her - bits of SK everywhere! :pointlaugh

    I knew you would sort it out eventually .....;)
     
  9. trevor b

    trevor b Well-Known Member

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    Aug 17, 2011
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    Location:
    eastern ontario
    long time no hear .glad all's well keep us posted with pks as the job go's on tb
     
  10. case 580sm

    case 580sm Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2011
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    Occupation:
    full time backhoe operator
    Location:
    Canada, Ontario, Ottawa
    nice hoe. Seems like you have put a lot of work into it, and it looks good.
    Keep us informed,

    case 580sm
     
  11. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys, yes am quite slick at the front end now, hope I don't have to visit any rebuilds there again for a while.

    One tip I need to tell myself is to push the radiator shroud right back before finishing the four lower cap bolts, otherwise the bonnet won't seat down properly.

    It is a great hoe and I am amazed at how short the jobs are when I go to do them, so handy - a life saver!
     
  12. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Yeah, actually now that you mention it, that does look like what happened! :D

    Another little project I set to after the bucket coupler was a dock for the three I have.

    Made from literally a 'scrap heap challenge' in a day, it has enabled me to change buckets without them falling all over the place, also keeps them off the ground and a neighbour mentioned, if I wanted to the whole lot could be lifted onto a tray back to shift them about between work - not a bad side effect!

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    CASE-580SK_Bucket.Dock-191211-DSC09827.JPG
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    CASE-580SK_Bucket.Dock-191211-DSC09829.JPG
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    CASE-580SK_Bucket.Dock-191211-DSC09832.JPG
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    CASE-580SK_Bucket.Dock-191211-DSC09833.JPG
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    CASE-580SK_Bucket.Dock-191211-DSC09839.JPG
     
  13. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    Good one AU CASE!
    You could better the design by making it so the loader bucket can slide in under the frame & then use the hoe to carry them around. ;)
    Looks a little too wide to do that though?? - maybe sit the buckets 90 degrees around the other way to lose some width.
     
  14. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Hi alrman,

    That is an excellent idea, I'll run the tape over it soon and see what I can do! :)
     
  15. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
    NSW Australia
    Hoe drives one rear wheel

    Hi all,

    Long time no speak me! :eek:

    Must be because my CASE's are so reliable, actually we are fitting a new set of cattle yards on an old site, so my hoe has been a 'god send' to remove the old timber posts and rails in a jiffy!

    We had to import about 59 loads (so far to yesterday anyway) of road base from a quarry on site nearby to get an even surface over protruding rocks and erosion in the old yards so that has been an incredible asset to be able to solve ourselves.

    Also some of the yard panels and fixtures are hoe sized lifts and it has been brilliant to have invested in this machine two years ago.

    One thing I have noticed is the wear on the left tyre and in my quarry dump it is the only one driving and bogging in, is this normal?

    To work around it I have resorted to always use the diff lock and even out the push.

    Should I swap the rear tyres one day to make them last longer?

    Some images of the hoeing!

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    Rebuilding Cattle Yards Hill Top 250312-DSC00358.JPG

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    Rebuilding Cattle Yards Hill Top 250312-DSC00342.JPG

    --
     
  16. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    Avoid using the diff lock AU - they tend to break diffs . Better to just use the 4wd ;)
     
  17. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Hey alrman, good to hear from you, thanks for the tip!

    Is it normal for one side to do all the work?

    I'd say this machine has original rear tyres and the left is down, now I know why, so I thought if I changed tyres from rhs rim to lhs rim and vice versa it might put more traction on the left and start using the right anyway = no gain! :rolleyes:
     
  18. funkinalive

    funkinalive Well-Known Member

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    maybe youve already tried, but assuming your brakes work, lift the machine off the ground and run it in the air, unlock the right and left brake and apply pressure to each side individually. the results should be that the opposite wheel (to that with the brakes applied) begins rotating. if this seems to work without any noise then the diff should be alright.... also check that the brakes are not binding (park brake included)... love the posts and pics you look like quite the handyman with metal.
     
  19. alrman

    alrman Senior Member

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    AU - there are a lot of reasons why one wheel will spin. The diff is not limited slip so it is normal to have one wheel let go a little while pushing. Things that can affect this are weight distribution with the hoe; tyre inflation, wear; angle of the terrain will cause tractor to lean a little.
    You could try to compensate by offsetting the hoe a little so there is more weight on the spinning side, it is something you can experiment with, if it really worries you.
    It is not a good thing to have happen though, it does cause unnecessary wear & tear on the transmission. Try to smooth out your movements while using the loader controls, it will help.
     
  20. AU.CASE

    AU.CASE Well-Known Member

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    Occupation:
    Grazier // Rancher remote NSW
    Location:
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    Thank you for the comments, yes the brake tests show 'ok' on the diff, I did them around the time I bought it so I think alrman has focussed me 'on the money' about the balance area - cheers!


    Thank you alrman, yes sideshift hoes (in Australia) have a habit of placing the swing on the machine's right hand side (as viewed from the rear) so with all that weight it would spin the left wheel, I will experiment with moving the hoe over, although I have to admit to not being a fan of the what the hoses go through when it shifts across, but for the benefits to the machine and certain jobs that need a close park to the other side at a fence (or wall), the sideshift is there for a reason so it is about time I started using it!

    --

    Rebuilding Cattle Yards Hill Top 250312-DSC00359.JPG

    Taking down the old yards!

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    Dismantle Old Cattle Yards-270312-DSC00411.JPG

    Taking down the old yards!

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    Dismantle Old Cattle Yards-270312-DSC00389.JPG

    Knocking over some dead trees that have become a hazard.

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    Dismantle Old Cattle Yards-270312-DSC00397.JPG

    Stacking them away for the saw bench and Winter heater!

    --

    Wedge Tailed Eagle 280312-DSC08874.JPG

    Now this guy is a native Wedge Tailed Eagle, I snapped this after it came into home base one day about 11AM looking for some poultry for lunch, courtesy of our chooks, didn't work though, sent it packing, the boss was most impressed that I heard the racket from the chooks as they made a dash for their penthouse!

    --