Our machine lost power today and stalled. Seemed like maybe a fuel filter issue? I replaced both fuel filters. I went to prime filters up with primer and noticed the rubber pump cover is dried rotted and shot. I remember awhile ago reading on here that if the rubber is cracked and ruined it will let air back in when trying to prime. I could get fuel to come out of the bleeder screw and machine would start. Then loose power again. I primed and get more air and it would start then same thing. Could a bad pump/ bad rubber primer pump cover cause this issue? It seems like fuel filters may have been clogged then when priming the rubber boot did not let me get all the air out? Does it sound like I am on to something?
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case 580 super L series 2 fuel transfer/lift pump question
- Thread starter rickw
- Start date
hammertime
Well-Known Member
My rubber is all tore up like you describe have not had that issue. Definitely sounds like a fuel deal though
GaryHoff
Senior Member
There is also a screen in the lift pump. Removed the inlet hose, and fitting, and you will see it. It may be plugged if your machine doesn't have a inline filter before the lift pump.
Lift pump is relatively easy to change, you may have to bump the starter a few times, so the lever isn't on a cam lobe (this will make it easier to bolt on the pump)
Lift pump is relatively easy to change, you may have to bump the starter a few times, so the lever isn't on a cam lobe (this will make it easier to bolt on the pump)
I replaced the inline filter and the single screw on filter. I replaced the pump and bled it. fired up and ran great for 2 hrs. Then dad called and said it is starving again and barely runs? Like it is starving for fuel? When I unhooked hose from the inline filter with the fuel cap off the fuel shot right back into the tank like the line is clear.
Maybe the fuel shut off solenoid could be getting weak and not wanting to hold open. Just using logical thinking? Clean filters and good transfer pump with good flow to the bleeder screw when bleeding. When it happens it goes from running strong to no power or no start in a instant. Dad was able to limp it back out of the field so at least it is not stuck in the middle of the drive. I havent looked at the solenoid yet. Is there a way I can grab the rod and help it to see if solenoid is bad? I have seen so post about solenoids breaking done on this machine. I appreciate the input
Billrog
Senior Member
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You can hold it open with a piece of wire.
And I have the solenoid that has the 3 wire plug in that hangs over the pump.
Billrog Thank you for the diagnostic tip!
Yes that's a typical failure for electronics, getting weak after warming up. You could do all kinds of diagnostics on it, but if it runs an hour or two and stalls with no vacuum in the tank, then hold the shut off open and if it keeps running that's the simplest diagnostics there is. If you wait until the engine is hot and stalled, then you can release the solenoid and watch it die again just for the satisfaction of being sure.
DARO
Well-Known Member
Next time it dies. Remove spin on filter and see if there is air in there. I would think if a fuel shut off is letting go. U could restarr with out priming the system.
UPDATE:
I found the problem. Fine rust particles sucked back up and clogged the new inline filter. When I changed it the first time I unhooked the line on the up side of the filter and I guess it let the rust and junk suck back down the line. Put the new filter on and it pulled back up and clogged the new filter.
I unhooked the tank side if the filter first this time and emptied the filter into a cup and a bunch of stuff came out. I hooked up my manual fluid extractor to the fuel line going to the tank and pulled about 1/2 gallon of fuel out and I got a slug of junk out. Then we raised up the back of the machine and angled it toward the front right corner of the tank where fuel drain is and drained the tank. Luckily we only had about 8 gallons in it. Replaced filter and I will run it a few hrs and drain filter to see if anything comes out then suck the fuel line from the tank and see if I get anything else. I will keep a couple of filters, 10m wrench and 1/4 nut driver incase it needs changed again on the fly. Thanks for all the replies. Hope this helps someone else in the future.
Lesson learned: Unhooked incoming line first in the future.
I found the problem. Fine rust particles sucked back up and clogged the new inline filter. When I changed it the first time I unhooked the line on the up side of the filter and I guess it let the rust and junk suck back down the line. Put the new filter on and it pulled back up and clogged the new filter.
I unhooked the tank side if the filter first this time and emptied the filter into a cup and a bunch of stuff came out. I hooked up my manual fluid extractor to the fuel line going to the tank and pulled about 1/2 gallon of fuel out and I got a slug of junk out. Then we raised up the back of the machine and angled it toward the front right corner of the tank where fuel drain is and drained the tank. Luckily we only had about 8 gallons in it. Replaced filter and I will run it a few hrs and drain filter to see if anything comes out then suck the fuel line from the tank and see if I get anything else. I will keep a couple of filters, 10m wrench and 1/4 nut driver incase it needs changed again on the fly. Thanks for all the replies. Hope this helps someone else in the future.
Lesson learned: Unhooked incoming line first in the future.