I too am having a traction lock problem. I've removed the solenoid but cannot get the plunger out. I put the new solenoid over the plunger and still have the traction lock. I would like to bypass the system to get it into my shed. The wires on the solenoid are Red, Black and White. which do I need to energize to get the plunger up
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Bobcat 753 Traction Lock Problem
- Thread starter Eprn1n2
- Start date
I was able to use vise grips to keep the plunger up and move it to the shed. Now at least I can work in comfort.
willie59
Administrator
Is this a C, F, or G Series machine?
It is a G series.
crewchief888
Senior Member
traction lock is a 2 coil system.
pull coil is powered by the fuse and relay,
hold coil is powered by the controller.
the controller has to see an RPM signal from the engine before the brake will unlock.
if you have an electrical problem with the park brake system, it should be throwing a fault code.
no signal from the RPM sensor typically will not throw a code
:drinkup
:drinkup
Thanks for the great info CrewChief. It is flashing 6 times which I assume is a code.
crewchief888
Senior Member
g series machine will show a 4 digit code in the LH display while the code is active.
start machine,
seat bar down,
hit the PTO button.
when the idiot light starts to flash, DO NOT shut the key off, press and hold the light button down until the hour meter display changes and gives you a 4 digit numeric code.
once you key off, the code is cleared in the display, but is saved in the controller.
check the brake fuse and relay before you go too far.
the relays are all the same, you can swap a good known relay in it's place.
if the fuse is blown, you likely have a bad park brake solenoid.
you can check the resistance of the coils (red to black and white to black)
:drinkup
crewchief888
Senior Member
traction lock pull coil error off...
check the fuse and relay.
ohm test solenoid
:drinkup
check the fuse and relay.
ohm test solenoid
:drinkup
Thanks for that. I've replaced the solenoid with a new one so I can only assume that the solenoid is good. Where is the fuse on this thing? Also when I replaced the solenoid I could not get the plunger out. I've just placed the new solenoid over the old plunger.
crewchief888
Senior Member
fuses and relays are below the seat between your feet.
the brake assembly should pull out as long as one (or both) of the disks aren't against the wedge, and have the brake locked.
:drinkup
willie59
Administrator
Look for evidence of a bad connection at the relay socket. You'll typically see evidence of the black plastic of the relay socket melting from heat generated by a bad terminal connection. Could even have a bad wire/terminal connection on the back side of the relay socket. Happens most often with open cab machines where things are exposed to the elements.
Thanks Willie. The socket looks good with no burning or melting. I'm going to replace the relay and see if that takes care of it. I'd like to hook up the relay to 12V and check continuity.
Hi can u help me with my F 863..samething happens. Power it on, runs for 5 minutes or maybe more then traction locks and doesnt want to move anymore. Then i just power it off wait a few minutes power it back on and same thing happens. any suggestions what it might be??
crewchief888
Senior Member
on C and F series machines also had some issues with the ground wire that runs from the brake and bics coil back to the battery. the wires shake and vibrate breaking strands of the wire. eventually the ground doesnt make a good connection all the time.
the grounds are tied together in the main harness not far the brake solenoid connector. find that crimped connecting and add another 14g ground to the connection and run that all the way back to the battery.
corroded battery connections will also cause the same symtoms, just because the cables look good, doesnt mean you have a good connection.
the grounds are tied together in the main harness not far the brake solenoid connector. find that crimped connecting and add another 14g ground to the connection and run that all the way back to the battery.
corroded battery connections will also cause the same symtoms, just because the cables look good, doesnt mean you have a good connection.