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best way to digging with a skid steer bucket

Discussion in 'Skid Steers' started by case310350, Nov 18, 2007.

  1. case310350

    case310350 New Member

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    I am trying to dig into the ground with my bobcat 743, I need to remove some topsoil. I have a bucket with no teeth. When I try the bucket just seems to bounce off the ground and never digs in. Is the 743 to light to do this type of work? Do I need teeth on the bucket before I can dig?

    I know this is first grade stuff, but not sure what my next step should be.
     
  2. HeyUvaVT

    HeyUvaVT New Member

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    I don't know off hand what the weight of that machine is...we have an ASV RC100 which is about 10k lbs i still have trouble starting a dig in hard soil...usually I will just chop away at it with the cutting edge for a few seconds then once I can get the lip under just use the forward power of the machine to shave the top soil off..if you are in rocks then I dont know what to tell ya...maybe someone with a bit more experience will chime in soon :beatsme
     
  3. will_gurt

    will_gurt Charter Member

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    Good way to get started. I don't know of any "special way" to start. Just pick or, like above"chip" at it , until you can move forward then expand the cut.
     
  4. IH PULR

    IH PULR New Member

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    You really need teeth to dig effectivley with out them you are only burning fuel and putting needless wear and tear on the machine , if you have alot of stripping to do an excavator is the way to go because you can sort out the rocks from the top soil and use you skid steer to move the piles of rock and top soil to your truck or stock pile :my2c
     
  5. Steve Frazier

    Steve Frazier Founder

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    I've been very successful in stripping topsoil with my skid steer, I've done it on several occasions. My edge is smooth, no teeth. What I do is set the blade angle fairly sharp to the ground to break through then quickly level out once the desired depth is reached. I usually cut 4 to 6 inches in a pass. Our soil here is called hard pan, a combination of topsoil, clay and gravel which can be hard.

    Moisture content of the soil can effect the ease in which you can dig. In my case, if it's extremely dry the soil can be almost like concrete. If your area is dry you could hose it down the day before and allow the water to soak in, that will help soften it.

    As is often the case, we don't always have the best tool for the job at hand and make do with what's readily available.
     
  6. Alan Mesmer

    Alan Mesmer New Member

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    If my excavator is not on site then I sometimes need to also dig with my skid steer. I try to get a half bucket full of dirt (for extra weight)and use the boom angle combined with the bucket angle to break through the hard pan. My New Holland is only 6000 lbs. and by using the extra weight in the bucket I can keep all 4 wheels on the ground and usually chew through the hard surface stuff. Without the right bucket angle you are just going to bounce along. As others have said it makes a big difference in the moisture content of the dirt and what it actually is you are digging in. For digging there is no replacement for an excavator. Around here many times you get through the crust only to find it harder and more rocky the deeper you go!
    For raw digging, it is best to have teeth on your bucket - maybe try a removable tooth bar.

    Alan
     
  7. fireman050

    fireman050 New Member

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    i'd say get a bucket with teeth
     
  8. KSSS

    KSSS Active Member

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    I see this mistake with inexperienced operators or operators who are experienced just have never been taught anything.

    It is seldom productive to bring the loader arms against the frame and use the tilt of the bucket to gain entry into hard ground (tactic works fine in softer material). Immediately the front wheels come off of the ground, you lose tractive effort and the bucket tends to skip across the ground.

    Try this instead. Raise the loader arms about 1 foot give or take, then use the tilt to make fine bucket corrections. This keeps the weight from transfering totally to the rear, helps keep more front tire contact (you may still pop off the ground slightly at times). Keep the cutting edge at more of a tight acute angle (10-25 degrees) to the ground will penetrate better than steeper entry angles. Some issues that you cant control. Your machine is light and is not overly powerful. I have a scarfier attachment that I use for hard ground. Works great does a good job and does not waste time and fuel prying into overly hard ground.
     
  9. unimog

    unimog New Member

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    A bolt on tooth bar would be a more economical way to add some digging capability. That' if you don't want to spend the money on a whole new bucket.
     
  10. Fieldman12

    Fieldman12 New Member

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    It all depends on the type of soil you are in and ground conditions. I always have had good luck with lowering the boom all the way down and gradually lowering the bucket into the ground while going slow. If you try to go real fast with the machine you wont give it a chance to dig in and bite. Once it digs in be prepared to start curling the bucket back especially when you tires start to drop into where you just dug. Teeth do make it allot easier and in some soils Im sure that would be the only way. What ksss, says will work also as I have tried it.As has been mentioned you can always rip the ground open with something if it is really tough. So far I have not found anything my skid steer would not dig into in these parts.
     
  11. case310350

    case310350 New Member

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    Will get some bolt on teeth for the bucket. The 743 may be to small for this task. The ground is soft here this time of year, and still cannot dig in.
     
  12. lccmo

    lccmo New Member

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    a tooth bar made a night/day difference in my skid steer.
     
  13. Countryboy

    Countryboy New Member

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    Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums lccmo! :drinkup
     
  14. lccmo

    lccmo New Member

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    Thank you
     
  15. mdigger

    mdigger New Member

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    digging without teeth is like p_ _ _ _ _ g into the wind if you weld the shanks on top of cutting & if u line them up right they will line up with cutting edge so u can still use the bucket on a hard surface
     
  16. Cretebaby

    Cretebaby New Member

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    I would agree

    Get the tooth bar or a tooth bucket if you are going to use it a lot
     
  17. LBTCon

    LBTCon New Member

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    I have a 743 and the tooth bucket makes a world of difference for this machine. The machine only weights in at 4700 lbs. You really need the teeth to help penetrate the ground. A bolt on tooth bar also works great. You can probley get a good deal on a bucket with teeth at an auction, thats where I got all the attatchments I got and saved alot of money on them.
     
  18. Bentworker

    Bentworker New Member

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    I have a Case 1835C which is about the same weight and size as your 743.

    1) Get teeth.
    2) Try digging like this...

    Run with the bucket fully down, adjust the depth of cut with your bucket tilt only. Try to take about a 4-6" cut. You may have to take a run at it then tilt your bucket to dig in (this will be MUCH easier with teeth). After you get a swath cut the width of you bucket, run your machine about 3/4's of the way in the swath you cut, with about 12-18" of your bucket cutting on one side of the original swath. The dirt should peel right up and roll over in your bucket. Continue to widen the excavation in 12-18" swaths until you reach the intended size. Repeat until you get to the depth you need.

    I've seen a lot of swimming pools excavated with similar technique, and it seems to work well with my crusty old Case.
     

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