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Best Driveway material for hills

Discussion in 'General Industry Questions' started by dsgsr, Aug 22, 2011.

  1. dsgsr

    dsgsr Well-Known Member

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    I've been asked to give a quote on re-doing a camp road approximately 600 700 ft.
    it's very hill-ly/steep 50 too 60 degrees or so. Sub-grade is solid granite. Whats on it now is rotten granite and it's washing away/ruts 5-8inch deep. I was thinking whatever is put on it would have to have a steep center to edge grade maybe 2" to every 1' over an 8' drive. Whats the best material?


    Thank you
    David
     
  2. CM1995

    CM1995 Super Moderator

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    Grade it out with crusher run and pour 4-6" of concrete depending on what type of traffic uses the road. That would be a lasting solution.
     
  3. grandpa

    grandpa Senior Member

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    He live's in Maine cm....lol.... water gets cold there, and slippery.... would have to put some radical grooves in it for braking,,, and then the snowplow would hook them. I guess rap (recycled asphalt) would be my material of choice... but still 60 degrees would take its toll for sure.
     
  4. CM1995

    CM1995 Super Moderator

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    Hmm, note to self - see location of member before posting.:tong

    Question - What would be the difference in a rough broom finish concrete and RAP in a slippery, frozen type situation? Seems to me it wouldn't make that much of a difference but I have no experience with the conditions you guys up north deal with.:)
     
  5. grandpa

    grandpa Senior Member

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    Well if its real thick ice on it CM (like the kind that coated willie's ford last winter, ha ha) it wouldn't make much difference. But just normal winter when you put the brakes on you can pull up some rocks from the rap to slow you, but then with today's anti skid brakes your in for a ride that make your southern rectal muscle pucker....ef.ef..ha ha.
     
  6. CM1995

    CM1995 Super Moderator

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    Yeah had one of those one time but it was on very slick wet clay. It was a temp. road on a project the loggers were using to carry out loads. It was the middle of summer, everything was dry as a bone and an afternoon T-storm came up and dumped 1/2". I take off down the road, clay slicker than owl snot and well...that is why I have a Ranch Hand front bumper - cheaper than a factory replacement and tough as nails.:cool2
     
  7. tuney443

    tuney443 Senior Member

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    If the subgrade is solid rock,why just not remove all of the ''base'' material there now as long as you can get a decent plane on her.Anytime you have ledge rock as a subgrade,nothing granular will hold up in a gullywasher except blacktop or concrete,especially on a steep hil
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 23, 2011
  8. da'yoop

    da'yoop Well-Known Member

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    Wouldn't 22a be good enough? Maybe compacted?
     
  9. alco

    alco Senior Member

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    Wow, are you sure about this?....that's somewhere between 110% and 133%. Are you sure it's not 50 to 60%? Not that it really matters here, but I've never seen a grade like that and I'm curious.
     
  10. dsgsr

    dsgsr Well-Known Member

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    Alco you may be right, I'm not that familiar with grades. The sub grade is rotten granite with granite boulders embedded, so you either cover them or blast them. Hot top and cement are too expensive for options. The only thing I can think of is a very stony 2" minus with a lot of binder, somthing that would pack like cement and maybe grade twice a yr. No plowing to worry about (summer camp).


    David
     
  11. stock

    stock Senior Member

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    What about lean mix topping something like a 5 newton concrete ?
     
  12. grandpa

    grandpa Senior Member

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    Interesting note Stock. Soil cement, do you mix that in a pug mill?
     
  13. stock

    stock Senior Member

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    There are a couple of ways of which a plug mill is one, a draw back might be contamination of biodegradable material. mostly here when we did it we used tippers hauling from a batching plant. I was laid with a paver on motorway projects 12" deep on top of compacted 3/4 down crushed road base. I have also laid it on smaller projects with similar criteria to this one but domestic usage, and of course we don't get the extremes of weather that Maine has a a norm.
    It can be laid with a grader or excavator,compacted with a roller but must be left for a week to reach full load bearing strength. O' don't forget the crack inducers or expansion cuts every 6m or 20'.............
     
  14. grandpa

    grandpa Senior Member

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    Do you know the percentage of cement that is used in the mix?
     
  15. tuney443

    tuney443 Senior Member

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    If blacktop is cost prohibitive there dsgsr,you can always go with blacktop millings if there's a plant by you that offers it. Tell that camp's owner to dig a little deeper into their cookie jar because it's going to be that old scenario:Do it cheaply,it will look good for awhile[read that until the next gullywasher comes],then redo,again and again---OR--do it once,invest WISELY,and put down some type of hard[blacktop,concrete,millings] surface that rain won't scour and undermine.I would also put down a HEAVY crown and have 1.5'' crushed stone on each side for drainage.
     
  16. stock

    stock Senior Member

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  17. willie59

    willie59 Super Moderator

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    Wow, that's a neat tool Stock. :yup
     
  18. brianbulldozer

    brianbulldozer Well-Known Member

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    I don't know how well this will work on top of solid rock, but the only way I have ever had consistently good results on dirt is to place a layer of large clean quarry rock (we have 4" to 8" quarry spalls available here) then spread a thin layer of smaller rock on top (3/4" minus or small crushed concrete). I usually spread the top layer 2" to 4" thick. After the mixture rolls around a bit the small crushed rock drops down into the voids and locks everything together. I like it when after it is all settled and packed down you can just see the tops of the quarry spalls poking through. It is not the best looking road (homeowners always want to add more 3/4" minus on top to make it look better, but this just screws it up), yet it has always worked for me. Good luck.
     
  19. joispoi

    joispoi Senior Member

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    Grade it out the best that you can (given that you´re working around outcrops) and put down crusher run with up to 3'' aggregate on the problem areas. You´ll need to redirect the flow of water from where it is forming the gullies.
     
  20. dayexco

    dayexco Senior Member

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    asphalt recycle.....8" deep....wet and roll in 2" lifts...come back next fall, have them chip seal....won't be able to tell it from virgin paving...maybe even better.