No 1 seem to be showing air when it shut down. I try to bleed it. I get a lot of comressed air . That is why iasked this question
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941 B Loosing prime
- Thread starter asleiman
- Start date
Ken yes this engine is prechambet engine. With flow plug
I want to wish you all a happy fourth of July . Great bunch , I love all these question, and debates. My engineering background just won't stop over doing it. I am gona Travel to brother in .ca for short while, family business. Once I get back I will test the nozzles , may be put back the old one. Put new check valve in the filter housing. Go from there.
This machine I have been trying to make it dependable, did line bore the bucket , arms etc new pin every where.
The engine bee running great till this issue. I have leak in the flywheel housing , probably rear main deal. Will fix it little at time
This machine I have been trying to make it dependable, did line bore the bucket , arms etc new pin every where.
The engine bee running great till this issue. I have leak in the flywheel housing , probably rear main deal. Will fix it little at time
kshansen
Senior Member
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- Mar 11, 2012
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- 11,165
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- Central New York, USA
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- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Well when I watched the video I could not tell what was happening as after hearing it run for 15 seconds the video just stopped, engine seemed to be running right up to the end!
kshansen
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You say you are getting "compressed air" ??? Is this when you loosen the fuel line connection at the head, the one that takes a 3/4 inch wrench? You are not loosening the nut that holds the nozzle in the pre-chamber are you? Believe that nut takes a 7/8 or 1 inch wrench, been a few years!
Just for fun try running the engine and loosen the fuel line nuts at the pump with them tight at the head. Let us know if you still see air pressure coming out of #1
Mobiltech
Senior Member
I would say you've got a bad nozzle on number one. Can you replace number one with an old one to see if it helps.
Also try cracking the # 1 injection line at the pump while it's running to see if there is a lot of air coming through the line from the injector tip.
Also try cracking the # 1 injection line at the pump while it's running to see if there is a lot of air coming through the line from the injector tip.
continue with above post , after taking off the filter , cleaned the mating surface , checked the valve and cleaned around it it appears to be fine. the insert that the filter screws on it , will not come off . cleaned the water separator plate and all the holes, took off the drain plug cock, it had some stuff in drain hole but not pluged, cleaned as well
filled the filter and reassembled it.
filled the filter and reassembled it.
next step gona inspect the fuel line closer , it is rubber high pressure steel wrapped like the hydraulic type.
I replaced the steel one long ago .
after which I am gona attempt to start it from a external tank like a gallon to see if it would run
I replaced the steel one long ago .
after which I am gona attempt to start it from a external tank like a gallon to see if it would run
kshansen
Senior Member
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- Mar 11, 2012
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- 11,165
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- Central New York, USA
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- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Have you checked for air in the line connected to #1 like myself and Mobiletech suggested on July 3rd and 6th?
If there is a problem with the injection nozzle leaking compression pressure into the pump no matter what you do with a external tank or cleaning of check valves in filter heads is going to help! Just trying to know that making suggestions at this end is being heard at your end.
Sometimes listening to people who have been there before will save you tons of time and money if you just check one simple thing that only requires using a 3/4 inch wrench and one minute of time.
If there is a problem with the injection nozzle leaking compression pressure into the pump no matter what you do with a external tank or cleaning of check valves in filter heads is going to help! Just trying to know that making suggestions at this end is being heard at your end.
Sometimes listening to people who have been there before will save you tons of time and money if you just check one simple thing that only requires using a 3/4 inch wrench and one minute of time.
Good kshansen, I am totally with you on taking people advise seriously . I was taking by surprise when this problem occurred. as I tried to back track all my steps and this I have changed too understand all possibles problems.
Today I will remove all Nozzles inspect them and replace them with the old ones.
I have a discussion with a friend whose a service manager at the Thompson cat dealer.
he suggested that I may be getting compressed air from the injectors tips. The reason he said if
they are not seated right.
To install them I should be able to feel a snap that is indication that the tip is properly seated.
Well , that is new information for me and a key information.
I hope that will be reporting good news
Today I will remove all Nozzles inspect them and replace them with the old ones.
I have a discussion with a friend whose a service manager at the Thompson cat dealer.
he suggested that I may be getting compressed air from the injectors tips. The reason he said if
they are not seated right.
To install them I should be able to feel a snap that is indication that the tip is properly seated.
Well , that is new information for me and a key information.
I hope that will be reporting good news
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Messages
- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Now more than before I'm confused! This is a pre-chamber engine going by the S/N. I'm not understanding this "snap" this guy is saying you should feel. The nozzle screws on to the end of the adapter finger tight and then the two parts drop into the pre-chamber lining up the splines. Next the nut with the oring screws in and is torqued to proper torque. Then you put the oring with the steel ring molded into it on and hook up the fuel line and tighten it to the proper torque.
Does this "service manager" understand what engine you are working on? Sounds like he is thinking you have something with electronic injectors that have oring seals around the outside, like a C15. If I heard a "snap" while installing nozzles in a pre-chamber engine I would get worried something broke!
hello Kshansen,
I think you all called it , give the credit where it is due.
I pulled the all injectors tips this afternoon. starting from the back forward. And voila , the no. 1 injector tip all covered with fume Now I need to to fix that and what to know what caused it .
if you click on the link above you will see a video of no 1 rotating.
I think you all called it , give the credit where it is due.
I pulled the all injectors tips this afternoon. starting from the back forward. And voila , the no. 1 injector tip all covered with fume Now I need to to fix that and what to know what caused it .
if you click on the link above you will see a video of no 1 rotating.
DMiller
Senior Member
Check the seat in the prechamber, make certain it isn't cracked. One cracked they are all suspect.
kshansen
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
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- 11,165
- Location
- Central New York, USA
- Occupation
- Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Yea, I think on that engine I would be draining the coolant and pulling all the chambers to get a real good look at them. All those nozzles have what I would call suspicious marks where they seat in the chambers.
Not sure how good a job you can do cleaning the seats down in the chambers, especially that number one! If I was working on this for the company or a customer I think I would be leaning heavy towards new chambers and nozzles.
Not sure how good the "Classic" brand chambers are but looks like they run about $50.00 or so depending on exact serial number of engine. Nozzles/Fuel Valve Body in the classic version go for about $15.00 so for around $70.00 a hole on a four cylinder engine you are only looking at under $300.00. Would be a bit more for sure if you went to all original Cat parts so one has to factor in how much this machine will be used and how critical downtime might be.
As this machine has been sidelined for over a month as of now I can't think it is a mainline machine in a major quarry so I would be leaning towards the Classic parts and some careful work installing them. Probably go for a set of new glow plugs to avoid problems with those next week! One will need the correct tool to install the new chambers and the instructions on how to do it but that should not be a problem, just ask. And if he has a friend who is a service manager at a dealer that should be no problem getting hold of either.
d9gdon
Senior Member
Looks like a simple fix. Make sure to torque the pre-com chambers and the fuel nozzles to the correct torque. That may be the cause of your trouble if someone put too much torque on the fuel nozzles when they tightened them. It can deform them.
Good Morning All,
Finally had sometime to get back on the machine. Well my surprise all the new injector were bad, I tested them at the pump shop. the old ones tested excellent . so reinstalled the old ones. Torqued them to them specs, bled and primed and couple start it fired up ran for while and it did not shut off as usual
Finally had sometime to get back on the machine. Well my surprise all the new injector were bad, I tested them at the pump shop. the old ones tested excellent . so reinstalled the old ones. Torqued them to them specs, bled and primed and couple start it fired up ran for while and it did not shut off as usual
