I need to replace two hoses to steering valve just under the steering wheel. Everything is apart except removing the wheel which has two 8/32 holes tapped the first 1/4 inch or so deep. I don't see those as being of much use to pull with also if I hook under the hub with a three jaw puller that area is all plastic which is not going to work. If anybody has any ideas I would very much appreciate.
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580B steering wheel removal
- Thread starter Wills03
- Start date
Okay. Here's my steering wheel removal method for cars, trucks, machines, anything really that has a steering wheel on a tapered spline;
1. Loosen the nut by about one turn.
2. Sit in the driver's seat and grasp the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
3. Brace your feet against the floor.
4. Pull, rock and rive the wheel with all your strength. It will pop free once you're trying hard enough.
If anyone has a more efficient method, I'm open to criticism.
1. Loosen the nut by about one turn.
2. Sit in the driver's seat and grasp the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions.
3. Brace your feet against the floor.
4. Pull, rock and rive the wheel with all your strength. It will pop free once you're trying hard enough.
If anyone has a more efficient method, I'm open to criticism.
Thanks Cmark I will try your method again trouble is I now have the wheel with the casting directly below it which contains the steering valve I need to access out of the machine and will have no good way to hold it down. I have pulled many wheels in vehicles and always to my recollection was someway to attach a puller. This makes no sense to me & what an 8/32 tapping is for really baffles me.
Tinkerer
Senior Member
I have had good success removing steering wheels with an air chisel with a pointed bit in it. Put it on the center of the shaft and put upward force on the steering wheel while vibrating the shaft with the chisel. It is an air chisel like muffler shops use . Small and inexpensive.
GregD1
Well-Known Member
You guys make it a lot of work !!!!!!!!!!! Go find a ball bearing and weld the steeringwheel nut to the bearing with some stainless rod. Thread it on in place of the nut that holds the wheel on. Now have someone pull on the wheel while you smack the ball bearing with a brass drift and a hammer. It will pop off the taper and you won`t go flying as the nut will hold it on the shaft.
So you're out on field service in the middle of nowhere. You've now got to find a spare steering wheel nut, a suitable size ball bearing, a welder, a stainless rod and a willing assistant.
Now THAT sounds like a lot of work.
Thats exactly how I do it with cars and other taper fit things just a small controllable air hammer to rattle it a bit and its off in seconds even a tap with a regualar hammer will work
GregD1
Well-Known Member
Yeah I guess it is a lot of work for some people to actually think ahead about solving the problem the first time so the next time you encounter it you are actually prepared to do the job.
If a problem is easily addressed the first time it's encountered without the need for fabricating special tools then the next time it's encountered, it ceases to be a problem.
Confirmation bias can be a big hurdle for some people to overcome.
Confirmation bias can be a big hurdle for some people to overcome.
I have had the joy of working on machines decades older than myself, with the original steering wheel still on, and a lifetime of Great Northwet rust. Sometimes they just don't, and have to be cut off. On the other hand there were some hollow shaft units that I had success with by heating the center hole of the shaft with a welding tip and then letting it cool, moved just enough to loosen the rust weld and off she popped.
I have also used a bearing splitter under the steering wheel with a puller and some threaded rods to tie it all together. You can't get tons of pressure but more than you can pull usually, and then yank and rock in addition.
I would imaging the two machine screw holes would be for a horn switch plate, it's most likely a generic steering unit.
I have also used a bearing splitter under the steering wheel with a puller and some threaded rods to tie it all together. You can't get tons of pressure but more than you can pull usually, and then yank and rock in addition.
I would imaging the two machine screw holes would be for a horn switch plate, it's most likely a generic steering unit.
hosspuller
Senior Member
Without doubt, there will be Kroil or some other penetrating fluid applied to the joint. :thumbsup
Turned out the holes were 10/32 and I ran in socket head cap screws with several fender washers , used a bar type puller with a center feed screw and was amazed with the pull those two tappings would take without tearing out. It would not budge and then a quick shot with the welding tip off it came. Not a generic steering wheel the hoe has been in the family since new & not for a horn they are not even exposed until the center hold down nut is removed. Thank you all for your ideas.