580B Filter and fluid question

[geomerc]

Hey guys where is the fill line for the shuttle? Yasmar I just went through similar with mine. Only the guy has already changed the fluids. I wound up getting a new radiator cause the shop said the old one had too much well water run through it. Now I'm putting it back together but want to check all the fluid levels before I start using it.

George

 

[yasmar]

Major dis-assembly yesterday...Removed the spacer tube between the booms (over the fuel tank). Used a spreader to open to gap enough to remove the tube.

Removed the fuel tank...removed the hydraulic crossover lines...unbolted and "come-alonged" the steering column to the roof...unhooked various linkages...

One interesting development...the flow control spool on the shuttle control valve assembly was not connected. The pin that runs through the clutch cam was gone. May explain some things.

Removed the access plate on the torque tube to get at the pump.

What I found: A couple of handfuls of "gunk" in the tube cavity...fiberous stuff, looked like old gasket material...a few metal flakes, nothing too serious for a 33 year old machine. Flushed torque tube cavity with diesel. Pick-up tube screen was pretty much clogged with this gunk.

Pump was toast. One bushing was worn away.
Installed new pump.

Scraped and cleaned everything and re-assembled.

I'll have to wait until next weekend to test everything...but I'd say I found the problem.

 

[Phil]

Great Yasmar, sounds like you got the bull by the horns. I remember the valve you refer to, being a dump valve, that is actuated by the clutch pedal. The set-up dimension is 1.3" with clutch pedal released. I can get you more info on that if needed.

When the clutch pedal is released, the pedal should return fully to the "up" position, pulling out the dump valve with it to the proper position, and bringing available clutch pressure back to maximum. The return spring for the clutch pedal always seems to be a little weak on the B and should be checked. Phil

 

[yasmar]

Great Yasmar, sounds like you got the bull by the horns. I remember the valve you refer to, being a dump valve, that is actuated by the clutch pedal. The set-up dimension is 1.3" with clutch pedal released. I can get you more info on that if needed.

When the clutch pedal is released, the pedal should return fully to the "up" position, pulling out the dump valve with it to the proper position, and bringing available clutch pressure back to maximum. The return spring for the clutch pedal always seems to be a little weak on the B and should be checked. Phil

It's funny, but it was actually a relief to find all these problems...it's easier then having to hunt them down.

 

[rrh2000]

rrh2000

I hope I can jump in and ask a question on the problem I'm having on my 580b case, I have the shuttle shift also and I now the clutch does not disengage enough to put machine in gear ,I have to shut off engine and put in gear then start, once it's in gear I can shift between gears if I shift fast. when I put it out of gear you can hear the transmission spinning like something is turning.
What ever information you all can give me would be appreciated.
And sorry for jumping in but I can not start my own thread yet,
Thanks
rrh2000

 

[tresslers]

I have that problem if my idle is too high.

 

[Phil]

Rrh2000
Does your clutch pressure gauge work? The pressure should drop off as soon as the "clutch" pedal is pushed down, for gear changing. Does the problem get any better when the machine is warmed up? What kind of oil is in your shuttle compartment? Phil

 

[rrh2000]

Phil,
The clutch gauge is in the green with the pedal out and yes it drops down to the red left hand side of gauge when I push the pedal in. I am using the case hyd oil that is called for in the book. But I have never drained and flushed the system or changed filter I have had the machine for about 1 year and it is just starting to do this.
I hope it's something simple and not a tear down? could the pump be bad? of pedal out of adjustment?
and thank you for the response I'm new at this and can use all the help I can get.

 

[rrh2000]

Tresslers,
Thanks I'll tried to drop idle down, but it only grinds slower, and I even went higher thinking maybe I didn't have enough hyd pressure on low idle, any other suggestions.
thanks

 

[CaptDave]

It is amazing what one finds in filter housings. I just did all mine on my 530. Two inches of muck in the primary fuel, water and crap in the shuttle and the list goes on. Well those are done, some hyd lines being made up as we speak, the fire in the boom is out. OOOPs look out for leaves and sawdust when heating fittings.
Cylinder head should go on Monday with some help from a Bobcat. Can't wait to hear it finally start.

 

[Phil]

Rrh2000,
I keep thinking you have a problem in the clutch packs with something causing the discs to drag. I don't think it's in the valve body but rather in the shuttle assembly itself. I never had to take one apart for that reason, usually they just won't drive.Phil

 

[rrh2000]

Phil, Thanks I'll try the fluid change and filter and hope that helps.maybe I can pull the cover off and look at the shuttle pack?

 

[Phil]

Picture shown is a Rockwell unit, I think. The discs can be seen through the slots in the drum. See if they move back and forth a little. Not sure if both drums will turn freely or not, both if it's in neutral I think, I can't remember the flow of power through the unit. Rear unit is forward drive, I think. The drum looks different on a Twin disc unit and they are much harder to repair. I'm not sure if you can split the B and just roll everything ahead(tank and steering unit attached), until the steering wheel hits the windshield or not. I did this on a CK and didn't require alot of work to access the shuttle. Phil

 

[ronspowertrain]

580b shuttle problem

I was hoping that YASMAR would report on how well his repair went and after working the machine if the shuttle held stong. Mine fades away after 20 minutes
My 580B sounds exactly like his.

 

[Phil]

Yes, I was hoping to hear from him too. Phil

 

[yasmar]

alright...alright...quit nagging

That indeed did seem to solve the problem(s) *knock wood*

I Haven't worked it real hard, but she was doin' wheelies!
Pressure held steady..it used to drop off real quick.
I've got some cosmetic stuff to do (new seat!) then I'll really work her.

Looks like it was a combination of bad pump/no shuttle filter/clogged pick-up screen.

I'd like to give a quick mention to Dale at TractorStuff
http://www.e-backhoeparts.com/

He's a great source of parts/knowledge/and a genuine nice guy.

 

[Phil]

Sounds like your cautiously optimistic. But it's sounding like a happy ending to me Yasmar:drinkup.

I had a JD dozer once that had to have major work done on the transmission. It was a month long job for me, with the drive-train components coming out piece by piece after the engine was removed. Parts were extremely expensive which had an affect what got replaced, and assembly was a pain. I think my nerves were shot when I got it back together....so after everything was done, I just let it sit there, on planks in the shop. I wasn't feeling very optimistic when my son walked in, said is it ready to go Dad, started it up and drove it out.

Sometimes difficult and lengthy repairs seem to leave one doubting and even if the machine works, one always wonders.

I always felt the big shops don't hesitate to replace anything that looks worn, "if in doubt, fire it out"(scrap bin), and for good reason, they have to guarantee it. The little guy working on his own machine usually takes chances, hoping that a little 'wear on this part' will probably be alright and is willing to gamble his time and effort on a hunch. So hats off to the home mechanic. Phil

 

[Phil]

Oh man I got rambling on and waited too long to delete that last post. To many beers, sorry about that.

 

[crs36]

Hey Phil your ramble is pretty much accurate antway!

 

[Phil]

Thanks,