1968 Case 580CK head gasket??

[Tinkerer]

I would never mix different kinds of bolts and /or studs for a head-gasket situation. I worry about the expansion rates being different among them when the temperature changes while the engine is running.
Be sure to apply sealant to all the block threads to prevent coolant seepage. Permatex 80632 is a good one.

 

[Juskatla]

I had an issue with a couple of studs that I couldn't get out. The machine shop took care of that and I called Dale at Tractorstuff and he had a used stud of the correct length that he sent me. Couldn't get any local so even at the Case dealer. Would have been a month through them anyway as they have to order anything I need in from CNH. Got it from Dale in 5 days.

 

[56wrench]

If the stud goes into the water jacket, it will require some type of thread sealer on it, otherwise it will leak coolant. Your best bet would likely be a heli-coil thread repair with sealer also on the outside of the thread insert, assuming there is enough material around the hole to allow drilling and tapping for the insert. On some engines, some studs are too close to the liner counterbore, although from your pictures there may be room. But first, try the new stud as far down as there are threads and if it is a blind hole, use a bottoming tap and thread right to the bottom of the hole to try and gain another thread or two. Some studs use a tapered end, so you may want to remove the tapered portion because the threads are not full threads and will not fully engage the threads in the block and you want as much thread contact as possible provided the stud is long enough overall. Start the thread clean-up with a taper tap and then after, change to a bottoming tap. Good luck

 

[Juskatla]

On the 188D, most studs go right through to the water jacket. When I got mine back from the machine shop, I used a tap to clean all the threads in the block and applied sealer to each one as it was threaded back. A couple could have been threaded down past where they were supposed to be, so watch the length above the block to have enough for the nut to fully go on.

 

[RadRob]

Thanks guys! I had a funeral yesterday and got back to it today. I got lucky on the stripped threads and bought a bolt that worked. It seems the stud was just catching a few threads in the block when it stripped and I got the proper length bolt and got it torqued down. I feel good about getting it back together and it should hold. Today was chasing bolts and belts. I have a local oilfield bolt/nut shop close and they had everything I needed so far to replace the bad stuff I pulled out.

I was dreading removing the hydraulic pump to replace the fan/alt belt but it came out easy. I had to buy a new alternator after having the old one tested and then went to fitting the belt. This thing came with a generator I think because the alternator bracket was scrapped together and the belt was so loose that the alternator was hitting the frame and no more adjustment. The guy also didn't use a plug, he wrapped the wire around the power lug and I think that may have grounded out the windings. 55 bucks later I'm out the door with a new alternator and a plug to wire it correctly.

I won't be able to get back to it till maybe Sunday but it's coming together slowly and it'll be right for the next guy to work on. I'll rewire the whole thing too, I found they used the relay for the intake heater for the starter, I might need that heater one day!!

 

[RadRob]

I've been slacking but I can blame the weather, too much wind and rain. I finally got the parts I needed in, I found a bent pushrod and ordered 4 new injectors. $108 for all parts shipped, I hope those cheap injectors work!!

 

[RadRob]

I've been busy with other projects and finally got it back together yesterday but it wouldn't start and that really ticked my off. I couldn't find any marking on the flywheel and I know it's timed right. Well today I go out and try to start it and still nothing but white smoke so I start looking thinking there's something wrong and found the fuel shutoff lever in the closed position. Bang she fired and after a few minutes I adjusted the timing by rotating the pump and I think it was assembled one tooth off because it could use a little more adjustment. The cheap Ebay injectors fit perfect and work fine.
BUT I'm still getting water in the oil so now I'm guessing it's a sleeve O'Ring or a cracked block.

So I'm here with my friend Jim(Beam) talking it over as to what I should do next. What a letdown of a day. I bought it to build a house and it's paid for itself but having it around is nice for those odd jobs that pop up.

Should I do a pressure test and find the sleeve that's leaking or dump some stop leak and hope for the best. I'm open to suggestions but I think I know the answer.

 

[Tinkerer]

First with engine running and pressure in the radiator remove the valve cover and look for any water there. If there is none take the oil pan off. Then pressurize the cooling system and look for the leak.

 

[RadRob]

I think I might've jumped the gun on water in the oil. I just went check the oil again and it looks normal except there's a little moisture at the top of the dip stick. I'm hoping that's from the left over water that was in it when I pulled it apart. I'll crank it back up in a few minutes and let it get back to temp and see if it works all the moisture out. Fingers crossed!!

 

[Delmer]

Are you running straight water in the cooling system? water is less harmful than glycol if it gets in the oil. Don't worry about the little condensation on the dipstick if the oil at the bottom looks clear. It should clear up after getting up to temperature and the rings sealing a bit.

 

[RadRob]

Yes just straight water. I pulled the valve cover to check inside and I don't see water coming from any where, I pulled the T-stat and the radiator was still full. I'll run it up to temp and see if it clears up some of the moisture.

 

[Billrog]

Run it up to temp. then let it sit a few hrs. pull the oil pan drain plug and catch some if there's water in the oil it will be on the bottom of the pan.

 

[RadRob]

Thanks for all the help!!! Good news on the water, there's no leak and it was just residual moisture.

NOW I have a new leak and I'm assuming it runs off the shuttle shift fluid because when it leaks about 1 gallon of oil the tranny won't engage, it's at the top of the steering box under the steering wheel. I looked in the book and can't find anything saying it runs off of shuttle shift and only off of the power steering pump. What am I missing here. I see in the book there's a repair kit but I'm still confused about the shuttle shift/steering connection.

 

[Tinkerer]

There is no no fluid inter-connection with the steering and shuttle that I can see in the service manual. The steering is a stand-alone system. Where are you replacing that gallon of oil that leaks out ?

 

[RadRob]

In the 4 speed shifter tranny. I didn't see a connection either, maybe it's leaking somewhere else and I can't see it.

 

[Juskatla]

The transmission is connected to the rear gear case and shares the same 17 qts of gear oil. Don't overfill as you will end up with oiled brakes or oil in the axle housings. I had a little of both on mine and replaced all the seals and brake linings for good measure. Your shuttle is separate and uses TCH or Hytran. The diagram that Tinkerer has posted shows the separate steering system. It also uses TCH or Hytran. If you are putting a gallon of oil into your transmission, I'd want to know where its going...

 

[Tinkerer]

The transaxle requires 80/90w gear oil. Is that what you see leaking ? Everything else except the engine requires TCH oil or better. You must be seeing hydraulic (TCH) oil.

 

[RadRob]

It's leaking from under the steering wheel and it seems to never stop leaking. I used it to spread gravel and knowing it would leak I still tried to get it done. I have to add a gallon of TCH oil to the fill plug in front of the gear shift on the tranny, it's the most forward plug/dipstick. If I don't add the oil the machine won't move so after about 10 minutes I have to refill it. I also checked the back dipstick and it's not over filled. I checked the power steering pump and it's empty but fluid is still leaking under the steering wheel and it's leaking down the lines from the top.

Two things that it might be is the oil is leaking from the starter or it just needs more fluid after sitting for 3 years. How much oil is in the bell housing or is it called torque tube?

I did notice after a little research is that the lines from the power shuttle valve to the filter are backwards from the book, does the filter assembly have a reverse flow check valve? I'll swap those around when the rain stops.
It's lines 20 & 21

 

[RadRob]

It's actually the torque tube that I'm filling, the plug on the left.

 

[Juskatla]

You may have several issues that are masking the problem. If you have the means, a good cleaning will help isolate the leak(s) and you can focus on them one at a time. The starter leak should be an easy fix, if its just the O ring. The Operators Manual shows 16 qts capacity TCH for the torque tube with power shuttle. If you have an oil cooler issue, it would transfer oil into the coolant as they run under different pressures. Check the transmission and rear end gear oil for level to be sure you are not transferring shuttle TCH into the rear gear case. There is a tube between the torque tube and the transmission case that is normally plugged on these tractors but on mine the plug and clamp had come loose and my levels were high in the rear causing seal leaks. May not be your problem but if you can't find anything else.... In my 68 Case Project thread, there are some pictures of this and other stuff that be of interest.