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1968 Case 580CK head gasket??

Discussion in 'Tractor/Loader/Backhoes' started by RadRob, Apr 19, 2017.

  1. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

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    I would never mix different kinds of bolts and /or studs for a head-gasket situation. I worry about the expansion rates being different among them when the temperature changes while the engine is running.
    Be sure to apply sealant to all the block threads to prevent coolant seepage. Permatex 80632 is a good one.
     
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  2. Juskatla

    Juskatla Senior Member

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    I had an issue with a couple of studs that I couldn't get out. The machine shop took care of that and I called Dale at Tractorstuff and he had a used stud of the correct length that he sent me. Couldn't get any local so even at the Case dealer. Would have been a month through them anyway as they have to order anything I need in from CNH. Got it from Dale in 5 days.
     
  3. 56wrench

    56wrench Active Member

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    If the stud goes into the water jacket, it will require some type of thread sealer on it, otherwise it will leak coolant. Your best bet would likely be a heli-coil thread repair with sealer also on the outside of the thread insert, assuming there is enough material around the hole to allow drilling and tapping for the insert. On some engines, some studs are too close to the liner counterbore, although from your pictures there may be room. But first, try the new stud as far down as there are threads and if it is a blind hole, use a bottoming tap and thread right to the bottom of the hole to try and gain another thread or two. Some studs use a tapered end, so you may want to remove the tapered portion because the threads are not full threads and will not fully engage the threads in the block and you want as much thread contact as possible provided the stud is long enough overall. Start the thread clean-up with a taper tap and then after, change to a bottoming tap. Good luck
     
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  4. Juskatla

    Juskatla Senior Member

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    On the 188D, most studs go right through to the water jacket. When I got mine back from the machine shop, I used a tap to clean all the threads in the block and applied sealer to each one as it was threaded back. A couple could have been threaded down past where they were supposed to be, so watch the length above the block to have enough for the nut to fully go on.
     
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  5. RadRob

    RadRob Member

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    Thanks guys! I had a funeral yesterday and got back to it today. I got lucky on the stripped threads and bought a bolt that worked. It seems the stud was just catching a few threads in the block when it stripped and I got the proper length bolt and got it torqued down. I feel good about getting it back together and it should hold. Today was chasing bolts and belts. I have a local oilfield bolt/nut shop close and they had everything I needed so far to replace the bad stuff I pulled out.

    I was dreading removing the hydraulic pump to replace the fan/alt belt but it came out easy. I had to buy a new alternator after having the old one tested and then went to fitting the belt. This thing came with a generator I think because the alternator bracket was scrapped together and the belt was so loose that the alternator was hitting the frame and no more adjustment. The guy also didn't use a plug, he wrapped the wire around the power lug and I think that may have grounded out the windings. 55 bucks later I'm out the door with a new alternator and a plug to wire it correctly.

    I won't be able to get back to it till maybe Sunday but it's coming together slowly and it'll be right for the next guy to work on. I'll rewire the whole thing too, I found they used the relay for the intake heater for the starter, I might need that heater one day!!
     
  6. RadRob

    RadRob Member

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    I've been slacking but I can blame the weather, too much wind and rain. I finally got the parts I needed in, I found a bent pushrod and ordered 4 new injectors. $108 for all parts shipped, I hope those cheap injectors work!!
    [​IMG]
     
  7. RadRob

    RadRob Member

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    I've been busy with other projects and finally got it back together yesterday but it wouldn't start and that really ticked my off. I couldn't find any marking on the flywheel and I know it's timed right. Well today I go out and try to start it and still nothing but white smoke so I start looking thinking there's something wrong and found the fuel shutoff lever in the closed position. Bang she fired and after a few minutes I adjusted the timing by rotating the pump and I think it was assembled one tooth off because it could use a little more adjustment. The cheap Ebay injectors fit perfect and work fine.
    BUT I'm still getting water in the oil so now I'm guessing it's a sleeve O'Ring or a cracked block.

    So I'm here with my friend Jim(Beam) talking it over as to what I should do next. What a letdown of a day. I bought it to build a house and it's paid for itself but having it around is nice for those odd jobs that pop up.

    Should I do a pressure test and find the sleeve that's leaking or dump some stop leak and hope for the best. I'm open to suggestions but I think I know the answer.
     
  8. Tinkerer

    Tinkerer Senior Member

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    First with engine running and pressure in the radiator remove the valve cover and look for any water there. If there is none take the oil pan off. Then pressurize the cooling system and look for the leak.
     
  9. RadRob

    RadRob Member

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    I think I might've jumped the gun on water in the oil. I just went check the oil again and it looks normal except there's a little moisture at the top of the dip stick. I'm hoping that's from the left over water that was in it when I pulled it apart. I'll crank it back up in a few minutes and let it get back to temp and see if it works all the moisture out. Fingers crossed!!
     
  10. Delmer

    Delmer Senior Member

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    Are you running straight water in the cooling system? water is less harmful than glycol if it gets in the oil. Don't worry about the little condensation on the dipstick if the oil at the bottom looks clear. It should clear up after getting up to temperature and the rings sealing a bit.
     
  11. RadRob

    RadRob Member

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    Yes just straight water. I pulled the valve cover to check inside and I don't see water coming from any where, I pulled the T-stat and the radiator was still full. I'll run it up to temp and see if it clears up some of the moisture.
     
  12. Billrog

    Billrog Well-Known Member

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    Run it up to temp. then let it sit a few hrs. pull the oil pan drain plug and catch some if there's water in the oil it will be on the bottom of the pan.