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Thread: Bobcat 763 Traction Lock Issue

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by greaseballx View Post
    need to get the heater blower motor out but seems like every way i go is a dead end i have the heater core and a/c pulled started to pull the whole duct work and all but seems like the seat needs to come out to get the heads of bolts gotta be doing something wrong any help
    this is copied from a thread on skidsteer forum for a t200 same problem. hope it helps.
    Well, I got the motor out after I found all the bolts. There are 4 bolts that hold the whole HVAC system to back/under side of the cab. 2 of the bolts are hidden under foam at the bottom edge of the HVAC unit. Once you drop the HVAC unit you will have access to the blower motor. As I said in my previous post, the bobcat dealer wanted $140 USD for just the motor. I took my motor to NAPA and found the motor for $75 USD. I will try to get that part number and post it. I also took the old motor apart because it just needed a bearing and after I got it apart I found that it does not have standard ball bearings. It is some funky bushing (junk) so repairing the old motor is not an option. I also found out that when the motor starts going out it will last about 5+ more hours if you beat on it and spray the shafts with wd40(a life saver while plowing snow at single digit temps). And when it starts to go out you might blow the 25 amp fuse.

  2. #32
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    863 bobcat, hydrostat issues

    New here, just found you guys while searching the net for answers. I apologise up front for not knowing the ropes here. I understand not being able to make a new post or topic or something like that for a while. Anyhow, I'm also fairly new to skidsteers and my 863 tracted pretty good until a hose sprung a leak, I shut it down, pulled the trailer over to it, loaded it, took it to a small shop, they replaced the hose, bucket was jumping and track control was slow to engage when i picked it up, they said it was air in the lines and would clear up, never did, in fact now it doesnt want to move, then it will begin to then wont move again, Hydro fluid looks great on dip stick prior to running, then it looks bubblely, appears to be sucking air into system. Can anyone shine some light over here for me? Thanks

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngelRock LLC View Post
    New here, just found you guys while searching the net for answers. I apologise up front for not knowing the ropes here. I understand not being able to make a new post or topic or something like that for a while. Anyhow, I'm also fairly new to skidsteers and my 863 tracted pretty good until a hose sprung a leak, I shut it down, pulled the trailer over to it, loaded it, took it to a small shop, they replaced the hose, bucket was jumping and track control was slow to engage when i picked it up, they said it was air in the lines and would clear up, never did, in fact now it doesnt want to move, then it will begin to then wont move again, Hydro fluid looks great on dip stick prior to running, then it looks bubblely, appears to be sucking air into system. Can anyone shine some light over here for me? Thanks
    If it looks bubbly I would guess it is still residual air coming through. If it were sucking in air more likely would be foam. Have you operated the boom and bucket cylinders a lot since the hose repair? If not do so and let it sit for a couple hours to let the air come out of the fluid in the tank and do it again. I think the shop should have had it in operating shape when you picked it up. If the drive system was drained the machine should be set up on blocks and run at idle forward and backward so the motors and pumps can turn easily and fill with oil. Check in the book on startup after rebuilding pump or motors.

  4. #34
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    Boobcat 863 Hydrallic issues

    I have tried to operate it, When you first start it now, it will not move bucket or wheels, after moveing levers back and forth 4 to 5 times, the wheels will slowly begin to move, then ever so slowly the bucket will begin to respond. you can then move around for 5 to 10 mins and then it will not move at all. shut it down and pull dip stick and it is pretty milky. after allowing to set for 30 min to an hour it will move again. ALSO, if you pull dip stick while moter is running, it will pour fluid out dip stick hole and I do believe it did that before. Man at that shop said it need seals in both drive motors and the Hydrostate. which he quoted $1200 for the motors and $3500 for the hydro. I dont feel good about letting him work on it any more for the machine never had any hydrallic issues prior to that hose springing a leak and it still drove better when I took it to him than when I picked it up. Thanks in advance for any and all feedback.

  5. #35
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    Boobcat 863 Hydrallic issues

    I meant to say that I do NOT believe it poured fluid out of dip stick hole before. Dont think it is suppose to do that.

  6. #36
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    It has been a couple years since I redid the hydrostat in a 632 but I remember the book being very specific on sitting the machine on blocks and and letting it operate slowly to get the air out of the motors and pump. If there is that much air in there to try to operate it under any load at all could cause damage I believe. Hopefully you will get a response from a actual bobcat mechanic on this.

  7. #37
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum AngelRock LLC.


    ALSO, if you pull dip stick while moter is running, it will pour fluid out dip stick hole and I do believe it did that before. Man at that shop said it need seals in both drive motors and the Hydrostate. which he quoted $1200 for the motors and $3500 for the hydro. I dont feel good about letting him work on it any more for the machine never had any hydrallic issues prior to that hose springing a leak and it still drove better when I took it to him than when I picked it up. Thanks in advance for any and all feedback.

    Wise choice if ya ask me, wouldn't let him work on it either.

    Check the suction hose going from tank to pumps very closely, sounds like you might have a poor hose connection that's sucking air when running.
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  8. #38
    Member wildhorse trnr's Avatar
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    If all was good prior to having the hose replaced, you might want to be sure the hoses are routed correctly (i.e. port A to A, port B to B).Also, if you are getting fluid out of the dipstick only when running you have excessive return pressure (improper hose position ?), if the motors are not leaking externally, pull the case drain lines and measure the amount pumped out in 1 minute (dealer can provide specs.), all will have some case drain oil flow, excessive means your motors are bad. As for the hydrostat, the Sundstrand sets are good for 5K hrs. normally depending on maintenance. If you doubt the pumpset, pull the hydraulic filter and cut it open below the threads, once open you can look inside for brass debris. Also, in the future, if you change a hose dead head the tilt cylinder in curl back position for 20-30 seconds, then recheck oil level, and raise boom to dead head those cylinders, while raised curl the bucket out, and dead head, this will work you hydraulic system over relief and remove the air, those older Bobcats replenish their oil at more than 2 times their reservoir capacity a minute (unrestricted), so they work their air out quickly, they also empty their reservoirs quickly when they lose a drive line or main pump to control valve line.
    Hope some of this helps.

  9. #39
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    Check to see if the fill screen is missing- under cap- if it is it could be at the bottom of the tank, resticting the oil feed to the pump and causing return oil to fill the tank. If screen is missing, drain tank and see if it in there.

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