I put another in vote for a mini-ex for steep trail cutting. If you're in hard ground I think you're going to find the mini-ex faster then a MTL.
I put another in vote for a mini-ex for steep trail cutting. If you're in hard ground I think you're going to find the mini-ex faster then a MTL.
minni ex.... and yes you will need uphill drainage. You should have the path leening into the hill a little bit so if your traveling on it and you loose traction, you go into the bank tather than over the bank. Now you path's contour is going to work like a diversion ditch for the water comming down off the slope, and unless you want that to erode your work, your going to need to catch it and send it off the downhill side of the path. You can do that with pipe and ditches, or you can use a small swale cut diagonal to the path to send the water over. If use the latter, you should seed it, and stay off it when its wet, and you may have to do maintence periodically on it. Using pipe cost more up front, but is less of a hassle.
My vote's for the mini-ex as well. A Cat 307, or comparable with a blade. The versatility is uncompromized with an excavator in terms of performing what you have described. Your spoils can be casted from the high side of slope to the lower to build the bench, as well as stumping, grubbing, etc. Plus the benefit of the grading blade gives you the "2 machines for the price of 1" concept.
"Vermont...7 months of WINTER, 5 months of TOUGH SLEDDING."
OK - the opinion is definitely going the way of the mini-ex. But I repeat my scepticism of the instability on the initial uncut, virgin, steep slope. Is this not a factor? I will be popping off a ridge-line, trying to cut a side-track down a VERY steep slope. remember, these are not for vehicles, just walking, quads, bicycles, motorbikes.
Last edited by pete40; 08-18-2008 at 06:25 AM. Reason: pop - not "poop", although I may be doing that too!
Pete
Remember this. When you drop over the side on a dozer or MTL, you have only the traction and stability of the machines tracks to stay on top. With the mini ex, you still have the tracks, but if you slip a little, you can use the boom to push yourself back. Also, as we have said, you can cut a bench into the hill BEFORE your tracks get to the location. One of the main reasons of using the excavator in these coditions is the ability to make sure the ground is stable before you get on it, and it is easier to dig into the hard bank while sitting in a stable location, and then push forward after the hill has a nice bench cut in.
Keep in mind, I have built many miles of steeeep roads with a dozer, but to do the small work you speak of, I would take the mini any day. I have put my 303CR Cat mini down some very steep banks, and always have the confidence of the boom to push where I need to go, as well as the blade to help hold me level while I work with the boom.
Jerry
Now that you put it in those words jerry I can see reason. I am going to probably try one of each on hire for a while before I buy. It'll be the only way to truly decide. But I know now that I'll probably end up wanting one of each!
Buy a small dozer thats what i use for pioneering work i have an older machine a John Deere 350c pat blade cuts about a 6' pass(perfect for ATV)very stable machine simple to work on. Pick one up for about $20K i also have a CTL with a 6way blade aswell great for regradeing trail terraces but just will never have the pushing power of a dozer. in short there is not one machine that will fit your purpose another option would be a small drott like a 931 or 933 will push a trail and can dig and carry not as fast as a dozer for cutting across a slope but will do the job once you hone you skills great for pushing heaps and building bike jumps, clearing scrubis a breeze with a 4 in 1
What pros and cons can you give for a 6-way blade as opposed to a bucket on the same type of tilting pivot on a CTL? A 4 in 1 bucket is obviously very handy and if you can also have it tilting for side-cuts as well, that could be ideal - couldn't it? What are the drawbacks?
itll do the job but a CTL just cant get the traction required due to its low ground pressure slow itll be slower and more wear and tear on the running gear i use my CTL for this application to save having to cart in both machines it also depends on soil type, amount of rock, tree roots, skill level, fear factor, budget in mind.
You could buy a good dozer and drott for the price of a CTL or a dozer and mini exc or SSL you need to way up what will be the bulk of the work. will you always have to maintain the steep terrain or only till your tracks are in if so buy a dozer to do the bulk work then sell it and buy a ssl/ctl and mini exc to do the on going maintainence i build alot of enduro/Motocross tracks in steep scrub land with the dozer and do the finish work and maintainence work with the ctl just my 2c worth
Know anybody in Qld who does similar work johnboy?
I like your idea there - buy a dozer (or hire someone to do the work) and then sell it and get a CTL for maintenance work. CTL's are bloody expensive though even second hand. I am a bit worried about on-going cost - I mean I will only use it occasionally but with a second-hand one, what are the main things to steer clear of when looking to buy? I don't want to buy one and then find out I have to spend 10k on something that is buggered on it. How many traps are there for the uninitiated?
i have owned ctls for about 3 years and would never go back to a ssl despite the added costs allow about $6-7K every 1500 hrs for maintainence (tracks sprockets, etc) a ssl will cost about half that amount in 1500 hrs but physio bills will make up the difference plus you'll never **** right again due to the poo compaction the ride gives you. also one week of work when a ssl is laided up due to weather more than pays the diff.
plus digging pass for pass a ctl will run rings around a ssl. a small dozer will cost about the $6K for chains and sprockets every 2000 hrs. I would go down the path of buying the small dozer rather than sub contract the work as you'll need to learn YOUR terrain if you intend on maintaining it. besides if your doing it for yourself you can take your time and do it the way you want not the most cost effective way. My only advice would be to take your time and learn the limits of the machine, my dozer has been on its roof twice in extreem terrain and it happens in a instant respect the conditions. Walk the site looking for blind cliffs, old mines, wells, dams etc i have found all of them and soiled many pairs of jocks. I'd come up from SA for a change of scenery if work wasnt so chaotic down here.
The dozers i would suggest for small work are
Kom. D20 D21 D30,
Mits. BD2,
JD 350c,
Cat D3,
all are small enough to do a neat job of small tracks and are cheap to run Ive owned a
D20 great for tight work still have the JD as it has 3pl too and just sold my 931c to a fella in Armidale D3 size drott same as D3 dozer Great power in a small package
Appreciate your input and advice. What does "3pl" refer to - excuse my ignorance.
3 point linkage so you can hook up implements and use the PTO to run slashers post borers etc
On the small dozer front - you got any knowledge of those "Eastwind" dozers - chinese small dozer about same size as a D20. A guy on the Sunshine Coast sells them, but I haven't spoken to anyone with one for a true opinion. Brand new about $30k.
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