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Thread: 580B Filter and fluid question

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    580B Filter and fluid question

    I want to swap all the filters and fluids possible on my '75 580BCK. What am I looking at for fluid amounts? Number of filters?

    What about fluid and filter types...Case only or are there options. Short of going into the Case dealer and asking for every filter and fluids to fill the machine what are my alternatives?
    Sometimes it's better to ask someone who's "been there done that"

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    from Wix's website using wix part numbers

    Air Filter 42222 580B w/G188 Engine
    Hydraulic 51760 580B w/G188 Engine
    Oil Filter 5145253 580B w/G188 Engine
    Power Steering 51653 580B w/G188 Engine
    Primary Fuel Filter 33381 580B w/G188 Engine
    Secondary Fuel Filter 33380 580B w/G188 Engine
    Transmission Filter 51518 580B w/G188 Engine

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    As for fluids right now i am running 15W-40 in the engine. Hy-trans in the transmission and final drive. plain old power steering fluid in the power steering, and hydraulic oil in the hydraulics. Visit your local walmart and get a cart. They have all the fluids you need. As for fluid levels everything has a dipstick or a fill line. so that is easy also.

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    Senior Member Phil's Avatar
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    Yasmar, is your B direct drive or does it have a torque converter? I use #80-90 gear oil in my B's transmission/ diff compartment and a transmission type hydraulic oil in the shuttle compartment. Phil

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    Phil,
    The oil i drained out of the final drive was too thin to be a 80-90 weight oil. I don't know what is best to use, I was going to use hytran.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    Yasmar, is your B direct drive or does it have a torque converter? I use #80-90 gear oil in my B's transmission/ diff compartment and a transmission type hydraulic oil in the shuttle compartment. Phil
    Mine has the torque converter (I think Forward/Reverse lever on column.
    Jeeps are really more my thing...I'm really new to this heavy equipment.

    I'm having an issue with the machine moving forward or back after working it which would lead me to suspect the power shuttle. I'm going to drain all the fluids, change the filters, clean the pick-up screen, etc...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Phil's Avatar
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    I think I have a book showing oil types used, I'll check this morning.

    Yasmar, what is your shuttle problem, does it slip? Phil

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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil View Post
    I think I have a book showing oil types used, I'll check this morning.

    Yasmar, what is your shuttle problem, does it slip? Phil
    The more I work it the more it feels like the Fwd/Rev lever doesn't do anything. The machine moves fine upon start, then begins get "weak" feeling, then refuses to move at all. The fluid was milky, so I figure that's a good place to start.

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    The 580B takes 80/90 GL5 gear oil in the trans/diff compartment. It can use Dexron III in the power shuttle or Hytrans or Hydraulic/Transmission fluid.
    Regular hydraulic fluid can be used in the hydraulic tank. ISO 32, 46 etc are fine.

    Remember the shuttle filter up in front of the rad when doing the filters.

    The "slipping" of the shuttle when warm can be caused by various issues. The most common issues are bad seal rings, bad piston seals, bad torque seals and bad pump. If you still have a working guage on the dash you can check the pressures. If it is still in the green then the pump is most likely OK.
    It is very hard to check/clean the suction screen as it is deep in the torque tube. Alot of dissassembly has to happen to get to it. I have seen more than 1 580B pickup plugged with silicone causing lots of problems.

    Hope this helps.......Elast

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elast View Post
    The 580B takes 80/90 GL5 gear oil in the trans/diff compartment. It can use Dexron III in the power shuttle or Hytrans or Hydraulic/Transmission fluid.
    Regular hydraulic fluid can be used in the hydraulic tank. ISO 32, 46 etc are fine.

    Remember the shuttle filter up in front of the rad when doing the filters.

    The "slipping" of the shuttle when warm can be caused by various issues. The most common issues are bad seal rings, bad piston seals, bad torque seals and bad pump. If you still have a working guage on the dash you can check the pressures. If it is still in the green then the pump is most likely OK.
    It is very hard to check/clean the suction screen as it is deep in the torque tube. Alot of dissassembly has to happen to get to it. I have seen more than 1 580B pickup plugged with silicone causing lots of problems.

    Hope this helps.......Elast
    I've got the floor removed right now...I figured (hoped) that there would be an access plate under there for the pick-up screen.

    The "Bads" that you list...are they all componants of the shuttle?

    What would your next step be?

  11. #11
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    Everything I listed is relevant to the turque/shuttle powertrain. The torque is in the front of the torque tube next to the flywheel. The power shuttle is at the rear of the torque tube right below the steering column. The pump and pickup are centre below the fuel tank.

    It is not uncommon for the 580B not to move immediatly when first started before the pump "get its prime" but they usually work fine after that. Poor performance after startup/warmup/use is usually a symtom of a very poor pump or bad seal rings

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elast View Post
    Everything I listed is relevant to the turque/shuttle powertrain. The torque is in the front of the torque tube next to the flywheel. The power shuttle is at the rear of the torque tube right below the steering column. The pump and pickup are centre below the fuel tank.

    It is not uncommon for the 580B not to move immediatly when first started before the pump "get its prime" but they usually work fine after that. Poor performance after startup/warmup/use is usually a symtom of a very poor pump or bad seal rings

    Does the machine have to be split to replace the pump?

    Anyway to tell if it's the pump rather than the bad seal rings? I'm assuming the pump is a remove/replace where as the seals are a rebuild?

    Local CASE dealer quoted me $2700 to rebuild the shuttle.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Phil's Avatar
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    I believe it is possible to get the pump out without splitting the tractor. It's the fuel tank that makes it difficult and alot of other parts to remove too. The pump can be tested up front by blocking the line going to the filter and installing a gauge, I believe. I'm guessing it is about 275-300 psi at that point without checking the manual. The dash gauge, if it's accurate, should read be in the green, 160-190 psi, I think. The pump is not rebuildable and the last one I got was over $500. Case lists it around $900 I believe.

    The problems tend to be in the shuttle itself and I'm sure I posted pictures of one here somewhere. There are two types, the Rockford and the Twindisc. If you are not going to pull the big cover off the top of the shuttle housing, access to just the shuttle assembly is alot easier I think. The tank and the steering column can be left attached to the housing and the whole assembly rolled ahead, far enough to get the shuttle out. I just did this to a 580CK, with a cab, so I'm not sure about the B model cab clearance. B's are hard to work on and any work around the rad or the shuttle is a pain. Phil
    Last edited by Phil; 04-11-2008 at 06:52 AM.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Phil's Avatar
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    Checked my 580CK manual re pump and it said this: "disconnect the upper hose from the converter oil filter. Install A22179 pressure gauge. With the transmission in neutral and the clutch engaged, engine warm and operating at 600rpm, the pressure gauge should read between 275 and 325 psi."

    "If the pressure is too low check for a plugged oil filter, defective relief valve, line restrictions, worn pump, air in system, low oil level, incorrect oil viscosity, missing of leaking gaskets".

    Clutch pressure check: "With the transmission in neutral, engine warm and operating at 1500 rpm, engage the power shuttle clutches in both forward and reverse direction...The pressure gauge reading should be between 170-190 psi".

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    I'm at a disadvantage...the machine is at my woodlot still covered in snow. I only ran it for a day before I put it away. If I remember correctly, the pressure gauge dropped off, which made me assume pump. The fluid is milky, making me think (hope) that maybe it's a combination of viscosity/filter. Fresh fluids/filters and Pressure tests will be the first order of business.
    We still have a few weeks of snow followed by a few weeks (and then some) of mud...trying to decide a course of action so it'll be ready to run when things dry out.

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