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Thread: 74 case 350 crawler loader resortation

  1. #46
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bronco71 View Post
    LOL, those are stout little engines. Would be a good idea to use new rod bolts, if not then locktite them good......they like to loosen and fall off on that motor throwing the rod thru the block....
    Red locktite on order. Thanks! It was a MF to get them loose, literally had to use an impact. After all, diesels are notoriously smooth and quiet.

  2. #47
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    I came to the conclusion that im not goint to weld on new teeth to the bucket, instead I plan to band everything back in shape, reinforce it where needed and install a rezloh edge. I would like teeth for digging, however, I REALLY bought this machine to make a road... seems like the best of both worlds.
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  3. #48
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    More parts rolling in. Im planning on machining out a small switch panel with text and using these latching back-lit buttons. And somehow this OEM-ish temp gauge took like 2 weeks to get here.

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  4. #49
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Im working on cleaning up the mating surfaces, have any of you guys done this? Mine has some rust, how did you get rid of it?

  5. #50
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    usually some sand paper, a wire brush and some elbow grease worked well. If I could get a flap wheel into it or the sanding disc on a grinder that really helped.

  6. #51
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redneckracin View Post
    usually some sand paper, a wire brush and some elbow grease worked well. If I could get a flap wheel into it or the sanding disc on a grinder that really helped.
    I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks!

    I considered a ball hone but really don't want to risk changing the dimensions in any way.

  7. #52
    Senior Member fast_st's Avatar
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    So did you find out if your LED lights were rated by the pair? if they are the 2x6 lights they should be plenty bright but they send the light in a 180 degree sphere. decent cheap flood lights. I like the latching switches.

  8. #53
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fast_st View Post
    So did you find out if your LED lights were rated by the pair? if they are the 2x6 lights they should be plenty bright but they send the light in a 180 degree sphere. decent cheap flood lights. I like the latching switches.
    I found out the chinese are good a the old bait and switch tactic. They were 61W per piece, but barely came up to.. 47? No big deal, they refunded me a portion and I was on my way. The small pods I got that were supposed to be 47? that were 21, they also refunded me over half of my money back and said keep them. So even though they are under the power I wanted, at that price, ill use them for now. I have seen LED's especially for headlights are rated as a pair when it comes to wattage.

    I went by the machine shop yesterday to check on the head, should be ready by friday. I looked at the valve and it appeared it just broke and that was it, no damage to the valve seat. woo hoo.

  9. #54
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Worked on it a bit tonight. Got the water pump apart with a ton of heat and air hammer, cleaned the bore and scraped gaskets. Went to install the bearings in the rods and they are too short �� gonna call them tomorrow. I need 1.125 wide bearings, they sent 1" ones.

  10. #55
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Sorry for not updating pics, I do most of my work from my phone, and if any of you have ever tried to use the upload function.... its VERY clunky at best.

    Does anyone have any idea how this oil pickup tube keeps from sucking air when its running? There is no seal, its just slips in and is held with a cotter pin.

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  11. #56
    Senior Member fast_st's Avatar
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    I've see that oil setup before. My guess is that its not running in air but rather an oil spray environment that seals it enough. Though, I wouldn't object to a little dab of sealer on the cotter pin ends to keep it from vibrating and wearing out

  12. #57
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    I think I might put a piece of waterproof heatshrink over the connector, pin it and shrink it, that will provide a good seal for years to come... assuming the oil doesn't break down the tubing.

  13. #58
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Its close now! Finally managed to assemble to connecting rods, matched bearings, torqued the rod caps (with red loctite) to 45 then 50ft/lbs. Hammered the sleeves in with a 4x4 and trailer hitch "my sledge hammer walked off". Cleaned the head and block really good and bolted it down. One thing I did notice is when I put some insta-gasket on the water pump housing gasket to hold it in place, I couldn't get the head in flat down on the block without smashing the pump housing gasket.... so I left it out and made one with just insta-gasket. Fingers crossed it doesn't leak.

    One thing I thought of after the head was on is... I wonder if the piston rings are clocked 120 degrees apart? I never pulled them from the sleeve since I don't have a ring compressor that big. Ill call the supplier tomorrow and ask. Another thing I need to ask is why the hell are the bearings they supplied starting to form rust?

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  14. #59
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    did you plasti guage all the bearings to check clearance?

  15. #60
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    I read about that in the service manual, however after measuring both sets of bearings, I didn't bother since they were all identical.

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