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Thread: 74 case 350 crawler loader resortation

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by hvguy View Post
    They are wet, problem is I don't think anyone ever used coolant, and the block is rusted to death
    can you pull the block and have it boiled?

  2. #32
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Too much work for what it's worth.

  3. #33
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Dear baby jesus, finally got the liners pulled. Gotta clean the block, possibly paint the inside? Clean up all the seal surfaces, blow out the crank, and make for DAMN sure there's no rust on the bearing surfaces when I push it all back together.

    I pulled the injector pump to be cleaned and re-sealed (since it literally has a ****** of fuel shooting out of the throttle lever) I read through my manual; and it says that you should be able to just pull it from the block.... heh, yeah..... right. I had to use 2 flatheads prying to get it loose.

    https://youtu.be/K4blEiqsQbs

    the ****** in the above sentence is the word str3am.... somehow its censored?

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    Last edited by hvguy; 10-09-2016 at 06:11 AM.

  4. #34
    Member bronco71's Avatar
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    Great progress! Definitely need to get the block cleaned good where the liner o rings contact so they don't get damaged. On my 450B the whole nose shroud with the radiator, oil cooler etc tilted forward giving lots of access to the front of the engine. At that point there isn't much to getting the block out of there ....
    Case 450B loader
    Case 1150 dozer
    Case 430CK loader/backhoe
    JD755 loader
    Cat D7 3T dozer
    MF1080 tractor
    MF265 tractor
    Int B414 tractor

  5. #35
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    I had about an hour of free time today, since it was chilly (59F) I closed the doors on my container and turned on a small heater... I realize this sounds bizarre, but I was in a t-shirt and standing still. Popped the top off my injector pump and couldn't for the life of me figure out how to pull the throttle and fuel shut-off levers.... I think Im going to out-source the pump for safety. However after poking around on the interwebz, I figured it out... gonna take a stab at it tomorrow.

    I cleaned the top of the block and vacuumed out all the rust only to find the top 3 webs between the cylinders are cracked. Other posts on this forum seem to have the same issue. Im going to look into this further to make sure the base of the block isn't cracked as well.

    Does anyone know how to separate the water pump from the pulley? I hit it in all directions with an air hammer... nothing budged.

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  6. #36
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    also forgot to mention, I cover the engine with a trash bag and random metal plates to keep it in place in case it rains... I found a full un opened champagne bottle in cylinder 1 today... somebody is trolling me. After its all together, new gauges and running... ill break it over the bucket.
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  7. #37
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    On the injection pump.. pull the black clips on the throttle/shut off shaft and pull the shafts apart.. 2 separate pieces.
    If you send me your email addr. I'll send you a pump breakdown w/ p#'s..
    send it to my personal addr... just put an.. a o l . c o m after my handle..

  8. #38
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Ill try that this evening if I get a chance.

    I went and had a look in the daytime, the base of the block isn't cracked. Full steam ahead!

  9. #39
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    I would pull that block have it boiled and then magna fluxed for cracks,you cant see all the cracks with the naked eye... your dumping a bunch of money into this, you may as well make sure the block is in good shape and if not replace..... so all that time and money on an engine rebuild doesnt goto waste...

  10. #40
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    while a normal sane person would do that, im going to opt out and just rebuild it; pretending everything is A-OK lol.

    It worked, had good oil when taken apart, had anything else been wrong, I would pull it and replace the whole block.

  11. #41
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    thats the issue now, you dont really know what else may be cracked or wrong, just because it ran doesnt mean it wasnt going to go boom soon after..just my .02 cents...it would be a darn shame to rebuild and then shortly after have the block fail...

  12. #42
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobbytime View Post
    thats the issue now, you dont really know what else may be cracked or wrong, just because it ran doesnt mean it wasnt going to go boom soon after..just my .02 cents...it would be a darn shame to rebuild and then shortly after have the block fail...
    Iv'e done all the inspecting I want to do, I poked around looking for a block, best I could find was a complete engine. If something is wrong with the engine, its already too late to abort; the rebuild kit has been purchased. But to be honest, all the bearings and surfaces are in good shape. I dont see anything coming up in the foreseeable future.

  13. #43
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    Have at it... you already know what the worst case scenario is.

  14. #44
    Senior Member hvguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zbo2 View Post
    Have at it... you already know what the worst case scenario is.
    Throw it away and start over. Seems fair.

  15. #45
    Member bronco71's Avatar
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    LOL, those are stout little engines. Would be a good idea to use new rod bolts, if not then locktite them good......they like to loosen and fall off on that motor throwing the rod thru the block....
    Case 450B loader
    Case 1150 dozer
    Case 430CK loader/backhoe
    JD755 loader
    Cat D7 3T dozer
    MF1080 tractor
    MF265 tractor
    Int B414 tractor

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