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Thread: Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

  1. #16

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangerfreak View Post
    thanks a bundle for your help
    Not a problem. Take care.

    RL

  3. #18
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    Question dozer question

    i have just a few questions about my d20A-5 dozer

    A:is there a fuse box and where is it

    B:does anybody have an colored picture of the grease fitting area where you tighten the tracks.

    C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.

    Thank you for your time and have a nice day
    Last edited by rangerfreak; 06-06-2007 at 05:38 PM. Reason: fragmented sentence

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangerfreak View Post
    A:is there a fuse box and where is it
    It's under the rectangular black cover on the left side of the dash panel...at least that's where it is on a -6...you have a -5, right?

    Quote Originally Posted by rangerfreak View Post
    B:does anybody have an colored picture of the grease fitting area where you tighten the tracks.
    Look at the long steel cover that covers the side of the track frame. There's a smaller cover built into that big piece of steel. The zerk is under there.

    Quote Originally Posted by rangerfreak View Post
    C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.
    I think that uses a large allen wrench...maybe 12mm or 14mm? You can get one at NAPA. They're used to remove differential and transmission plugs on foreign cars.

  5. #20
    Super Moderator Orchard Ex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rangerfreak View Post
    :C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.
    I have a -6, the plug has a square hole that fits a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet nicely. (I.E. ratchet with no socket on it) If it's not square it may be an 8 point which still fits a square drive of the ratchet/b. bar.

  6. #21
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    I have a '96 D20P-7

    To tighten the tracks remove the ram plate with a 17mm wrench. Theres a zerk in there. Pump a few squirts in there until the track droop is 20 to 30mm.

    Here's the lubricants guide for the D20/21 -6 and -7 Models.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  7. #22
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    Arrow Hi Steve

    Thanks for the upgrade.
    If anyone needs any book info on the D21, I got the books.
    Pete

  8. #23
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    Getting ready to purchase. Any advice?

    After a few months of checking around, I think I have narrowed my dozer of choice down to either the D20 or D21 Komatsu. As a newbie, many, many questions remain:

    1. Is the D20 transmission stronger and more reliable than the D21?
    2. Have you owners found the Japanese Komatsu grey market dozers to be well maintained off the boat?
    3. Is there any one major problem on this dozer to be careful of?
    4. When purchased should I renew all fluids and filters automatically, or go by the hour meter?
    5. What would be a good loaded mile charge to transport the dozer to my home?
    6. Is the price of $14,000 to $18,000 too high for this dozer in the 2,000 hour range?

    I have about 130 acres in central Mississippi and the dozer would be used for light grading off of old terraces and small tree and brush clearing. I have looked at two JD450B's but both were junk with smoking exhaust and 0% track time left.
    Thanks for the help.

    WD

  9. #24
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    D20 observations...

    I'm really new to this and am, by NO means, any sort of expert. Here's what I've found out in my research:

    I wouldn't buy a 'D21' ...it's too easy to abuse that shuttleshift tranny and expensive to fix when it breaks.

    Look for rust..my '20 has a lot of rust around the radiator and the deck plate is rusted to the point that I'm probably going to have to weld on a backing plate. The belly pan has a rust hole too.

    The '-5' is pre 1989 (I think). I have heard that they are more difficult to get repair parts for.

    I don't know if I would trust the hour meter. My hour meter is broken (or disconnected) and shows 2190 hrs. The PO thought that it had about 3000hrs on it.

    If possible, I'd do an engine oil analysis before purchase. I did on mine and I know that there's no bearing metal or coolant in the lube oil.

    Overall, mine is in pretty good shape — 60-70% undercarriage, fairly new sprockets, the pads have had grouser bars welded onto them and the hood and other covers aren't beat-up. I paid $13,800 for it too...and, best of all, I found it only 45 miles from the farm. The PO hauled it to me for the cost of fuel.

    Some good stuff in this thread about the little Komatsus

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by wdnewman View Post
    4. When purchased should I renew all fluids and filters automatically, or go by the hour meter?
    First off, Welcome to HEF wdnewman!

    The only thing I can comment on is the one I quoted. I would change all fluids, filters and such after purchase. While changing the fluids, take some samples and have them sent off to the lab. This can tell you any unseen issues with the internals of the components.

    If you can, get some samples before purchase. This can give you a heads up of problems, and could ultimately tell you if the machine has problems already. If the results show multiple issues then you might need to keep looking.

  11. #26
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    Thanks for the quick get-back!

    Thanks for the insight guys! I have already decided to stay away from the re-painted units, and to try to stay near the 2000 hour mark, but as noted, you can't always trust the hour meters. There is a Mitsubishi (sp?) BD2F for sale nearby, an early 70's model, but the hour meter only shows 1,100 hours! (Yeah, right!). But checking on the web, it looks like the Mitsu parts are few and far between, so that dozer is not an option.
    The oil check is a good idea, but the units I am checking on are some distance away and I may have to wait after purchase to get that deep into the dozer. It WILL be done though, either before or after purchase. I WILL check for rust, as a lot of those Japanese units are worked near sea water.
    FOPS with sweeps is a requirement of mine also, but will probably have to be done later. That will be a subject of a later post.

    Thanks again.

  12. #27
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    Also consider what type of tracks you need. Lots of them come with swamp tracks which are great for soft dirt and mud but not so good on rocks. For $14K to $18K you should be able to get a decent -7 model with <4000hrs. The -7E models are 12V systems which are nice for jumping and finding cheap off the shelf lights and accessories.
    Last edited by machineman; 06-07-2007 at 09:58 PM.

  13. #28
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    Ah yes, the tracks!

    I meant to bring that up too. Although the local conditions vary between packed clay and soft mush, we don't have any rock to contend with. However I did hear that the standard tracks on the 20A are much easier on the undercarriage which I don't know to be a fact, but it seems to make sense. I would like whichever type has the best push to it. Any suggestions? And thanks for that information about the -7E model. I didn't know about the 12 volt for that series, and that would sure be a plus.

  14. #29
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    Question dip stick question

    when i get done on my dozer the oil level is at low i checked it the following morning and it was at full, im guessing that this was because there was still oil in the rockers when i shut is down.
    to get to my point i added oil after i turned it off (fearing running out of oil) until it said full,next morning i checked i the oil again and it was past the High mark covering the letters on the dipstip that said engine stoped. is this ok

  15. #30
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    It's no different than any other engine; you need to let it sit for a while on level ground before checking the oil.

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