Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Help needed: Case 1845C Uni Loader Driven Chain Replacement

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    5

    Help needed: Case 1845C Uni Loader Driven Chain Replacement

    Help needed: Case 1845C Uni Loader Driven Chain Replacement

    <Sorry but I am unable to include the diagrams noted below. A copy of this post with the diagrams are available at this link: http://ul.to/9ma38cpl . Thank You.>

    I am an independent ASE Certified Mechanic with 3 decades of experience but I am a newcomer to skid steer repair.

    I am seeking technical assistance in replacing the front-right driven chain on a 1995 Case 1845C Uni-Loader. I have purchased the Service Manual, Parts Manual and Owners Manual (in PDF Format) but the Service Manual does not offer a procedure for replacing the Driven Chain, etc.

    Please refer to the diagram enclosed below.

    Summary of repair to date:

    I am servicing this 1845c in the field, in Springfield MO., 52 Miles from my shop.

    Symptom: Suddenly the right side front wheel no longer received power from the drive train.

    Diagnosis: Removing the front and rear Chain Access Covers (right side) revealed that the front chain (B or 27) missing from the front driven sprocket (33). The right Chain Case was also contaminated with 5 ~ 6 gallons of rain water due to faulty Chain Covers and Cover Gaskets. This water had frozen solid and was covered with a 2-inch layer of thick gray emulsified oil. Chain failure was most likely due to the ice lock-up previous to operation.

    Service performed to date:

    I jacked up the front of the uni-loader to facilitate thorough drainage toward the rear drain plug. Using a heat gun I melted the ice and drained the chain-case. Found and removed the broken chain. It had broken across 4 sequential links.

    I rotated the front-right wheel while examining the teeth of its driven sprocket (33). The teeth looked good. Using a flash light and examination mirror I examined the center Drive Sprocket (25a, that drives the broken chain) and the teeth that I could see looked good but I could not properly view the teeth at the top and bottom apex using this method. Hoping that I could get a better view of the center Drive Sprocket (25a) I removed 4 nuts (19) and then slid out the Shaft Assembly (20) until it cleared the mounting studs (about 1.5 inches). Unfortunately this did not afford me any view of the Center Sprocket (25a) and its teeth. Since the viewable 80% of the Center Sprocket looks good I am assuming that the Center Sprocket is good altogether.

    I stopped repair at this point and placed an order for the following parts:

    Part No Description Qty Ref #
    D131410 Driven chain, 80H, 64 pitch, endless 1 27
    H436964 Gasket, Cluster Sprocket 2 23
    H438173 Cover, Chain Access 2
    D125759 Gasket, Chain access cover 2






    Putting the new chain on the Driven Sprocket (33) will be easy but getting the chain on the center Drive Sprocket (25a) and then aligning and reassembling the Shaft Assembly (20) is causing me much concern.

    To explain:

    The entire Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly (Ref. 19 thru 26) is unreachable via the front and rear Chain Access openings. The Shaft Assembly (20), which I have already loosened and slid-out by 1.5 inches, travels thru the center of the entire Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly and appears to hold everything related to it together.

    Side Note: When I slid the Shaft Assembly (20) out 1.5 inches past the mounting studs the outer end of the Shaft Assembly (20) moved down and to the rear. By hand, I tried to lift the outer end of the Shaft Assembly (20) back onto the studs but the internal tensions applied by the Drive Chain (A) and the rear Driven Chain (B) provides too much resistance and this attempt failed. I figure that this can be remedied by relieving the tension on the remaining 2 chains and then use a floor jack to lift the end of the Shaft Assembly (20) into place.

    I am assuming that, in order to seat the new chain onto the center Drive Sprocket (25a) I will have to fully remove the Shaft Assembly (20) first. But if I do this I am afraid that the entire Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly (Ref. 19 thru 26) will fall apart and leave me with a nightmare to reassemble. Therein lies the crux of the matter.

    I have considered fabricating a pipe or pin that is the same diameter of the Shaft Assembly (20) with a brief taper and then removing the Shaft Retainer (22, opposite of the Shaft Assembly 20). Then with the pipe/pin inserted in place of the Shaft Retainer (22) I will tap it against the inner end of Shaft Assembly (20) thus removing it while simultaneously inserting the pipe/pin into its place, thus holding the Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly in place while allowing passage of the new chain over the end of the Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly. However, I am not sure that there will be enough room to pass the chain around the end of the Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly and currently I am not at the job site so that I may confirm this. My instinct is that there is not enough space at the end of the Center Cluster Sprocket Assembly to do this.

    Another possibility would be to remove the master link in the new chain and then reassemble the master link after seating the chain on the sprockets. This sounds like it would be the best option but getting a press tool/device, much less a punch and hammer, into the chain case in order to reinstall the link pins seems an impossibility due to the lack of space necessary.

    If you know the proper procedure for this operation or have some good advice or tips for me please respond. You can also reach me via email at westek12@yahoo.com or 870-278-9076.

    My thanks in advance,

    Wes

  2. #2
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    QLD Australia
    Posts
    1,663
    Welcome to HEF westek12!
    I hope you realize the cabin on the 1845C slides forward & makes this type of repair a whole lot more bearable........
    If you purchase new chains I don't think it will be an endless chain.
    You can connect the joiner links using visegrips.
    There are thrust washers on each end of the cluster sprocket - make sure you locate these to refit.
    The rear chain will have to be removed from the sprocket to assist the cluster shaft being refitted.
    I usually sit the cluster sprocket on a small piece of timber to hold it in place to fit the shaft & thrust washers.

    PS - Keep a box of band aids handy
    Hope this helps
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

    Have you updated your user profile yet?

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by alrman View Post
    Welcome to HEF westek12!
    I hope you realize the cabin on the 1845C slides forward & makes this type of repair a whole lot more bearable........
    If you purchase new chains I don't think it will be an endless chain.
    You can connect the joiner links using visegrips.
    There are thrust washers on each end of the cluster sprocket - make sure you locate these to refit.
    The rear chain will have to be removed from the sprocket to assist the cluster shaft being refitted.
    I usually sit the cluster sprocket on a small piece of timber to hold it in place to fit the shaft & thrust washers.

    PS - Keep a box of band aids handy
    Hope this helps
    Wow, thanks for the superfast response!

    I do know that the cabin will slide forward but was hoping that I wouldn’t need to do that unless I had to remove the Shaft Retainer (22).

    Thanks for the advice on the chain.

    If I understand you correctly, the cluster sprocket does not need to be disturbed in order to replace the driven chain. If this is true then I should not have loosened the cluster shaft as I did (whoops). So if the cluster shaft did not need to come out then maybe I can reseat the cluster shaft without disturbing the thrust washers…? With the cluster shaft 1.5 inches removed, I have probably pulled the shaft past the inner thrust washer but I am hoping that it is still in position and that I can reinsert the cluster shaft into place without having to remove the inner Shaft Retainer. What do think?

    I will stock my tool case with some band-aides in the morning!

    I really appreciate your help.

  4. #4
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    QLD Australia
    Posts
    1,663
    Quote Originally Posted by westek12 View Post
    If I understand you correctly, the cluster sprocket does not need to be disturbed in order to replace the driven chain. If this is true then I should not have loosened the cluster shaft as I did (whoops). So if the cluster shaft did not need to come out then maybe I can reseat the cluster shaft without disturbing the thrust washers…? With the cluster shaft 1.5 inches removed, I have probably pulled the shaft past the inner thrust washer but I am hoping that it is still in position and that I can reinsert the cluster shaft into place without having to remove the inner Shaft Retainer. What do think?
    I have not used a genuine Case chain for many years - I am pretty sure they are no longer 'endless' when purchased... (don't quote me on that....)
    If the chain you want to fit has a joiner link, then you do not need to remove the cluster - if it has no link, then the cluster has to be removed for fitting.

    Re the thrust washer - I think you need to see if it is still in position before you push the shaft back in. If it isn't in position, fish it out of the muck & put it back.
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

    Have you updated your user profile yet?

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by alrman View Post
    I have not used a genuine Case chain for many years - I am pretty sure they are no longer 'endless' when purchased... (don't quote me on that....)
    If the chain you want to fit has a joiner link, then you do not need to remove the cluster - if it has no link, then the cluster has to be removed for fitting.

    Re the thrust washer - I think you need to see if it is still in position before you push the shaft back in. If it isn't in position, fish it out of the muck & put it back.
    Hey alrman,

    Thanks again for all the help. You are right, the part number that I listed is not the endless chain.

    Two more questions.

    1. You mentioned that you have not used a genuine Case chain for many years, are there aftermarket chains available for the 1845c? If so could you direct me to a source please? I am trying to save my customer some $$ on the repair and Case is wanting $175 for theirs.

    2. I have found a used D131410 chain online for $66 but they tell me that it does not have the joiner (or master link). In other words, its an endless chain. Would it be possible to say drill out a link in the used endless chain then replace it with a new master link purchased from my local case dealer? Or is that a bad idea?

    Thanks again my friend.
    Last edited by westek12; 01-28-2013 at 06:01 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    QLD Australia
    Posts
    1,663
    Go to a bearing supplier & ask for a length of 80H chain. Normally sold in 10' lengths - I use 'Diamond'; 'Tsubaki'; or ' Reynolds' brands. You can get extra joiner links.
    1 x length can get you 2 x chains for a 1845C. (one long & one short or 2 x short)
    In the old days, Case always used Diamond brand - not sure now......

    Easy to fit a joiner to an endless if required - grind of the peined ends of a link & drive the link out.
    In theory an endless chain will last longer than one with a joiner. Most times a chain breaks, it is at the joiner - but some guys cheat a little by filing out the holes on the joiner link to make fitting easier
    As they say - a chain is only good as it's weakest link.

    Joiner links are dirt cheap - depends how much of a budget you have & how you value your time, if doing your own repairs.
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

    Have you updated your user profile yet?

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    midwest
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by alrman View Post
    Go to a bearing supplier & ask for a length of 80H chain. Normally sold in 10' lengths - I use 'Diamond'; 'Tsubaki'; or ' Reynolds' brands. You can get extra joiner links.
    1 x length can get you 2 x chains for a 1845C. (one long & one short or 2 x short)
    In the old days, Case always used Diamond brand - not sure now......

    Easy to fit a joiner to an endless if required - grind of the peined ends of a link & drive the link out.
    In theory an endless chain will last longer than one with a joiner. Most times a chain breaks, it is at the joiner - but some guys cheat a little by filing out the holes on the joiner link to make fitting easier
    As they say - a chain is only good as it's weakest link.

    Joiner links are dirt cheap - depends how much of a budget you have & how you value your time, if doing your own repairs.
    Hey Alrman, I did just as u said and bought a 10' length (enough chain to replace 2 drive chains) and it cost me 1/3rd the cost of a just 1 new genuine case chain.

    I will be installing it tomorrow.

    Your veteran help and advise has been priceless to me as I am sure it has been to many others. I really appreciate you taking the time to help out a stranger. If you are ever in Branson, MO let me know; the beer is on me.

    Cheers mate!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •