Don't know if this helps. It's from the service manual not very clear.
Quite new to these, was using my 68 CK backhoe in the clay, using the brakes for steering a ton, started having trouble with the left side binding after it sat a while, did some research and learned to check the brakes. Tore it apart and found one of the band linings had come off. Got new ones, cleaned everything with brake cleaner and put it all back together, seemed good for a minute, then started working it and found if I tried to use the left brake it would immediately lock the wheel and if under pressure won't let go without going opposite direction. quite sure it is a brake problem bc if i don't use the left brake it never has any problems. Everything seemed in fine condition, thinking possibly either put the drum on backwards (put the splined unit against the tractor) / springs worn out or assembled incorrectly (band springs seemed a little loose, do the ends of the springs go in the holes or the slots on the bands... i put them in the slots). Any help would be much appreciated.
Don't know if this helps. It's from the service manual not very clear.
My brake experiences are in "Roughest 580ck is a leakin'" thread. Sounds to me like they are getting cocked in the housing when they don't release properly. But, I don't know much. Packratc
well the illustration makes it sound like I have the drum on the correct direction. I ordered a new set of springs to see if that helps anything. there was no oil leakage into the unit and it was very clean inside, probably b/c the tractor has a full cab so no water gets to them. I am wondering if the pads on the side of the drums could wear to the point that the bearings roll out further than are designed to ?? I put a few drops of soy lubricant on each ball when I put it back together, but if anything I would think that would help them roll back. If it makes any difference, I can usually get the brake to release if I hit the pedal a few times quickly. It also makes a clunk when it releases or grabs, but it could just be the backlash in the gears.
I have to apologize as I forgot to look at the manual today. I'm looking at a parts book that has a blow up illustration. What I'm thinking is that the springs that make the discs return to the resting position, wherein the balls are in the "pocket", they are probably working. I'm thinking of the springs that are in cover that keep the bands aligned. The manual calls them "SPRING-return, brake band (in cover)...............4. The "4" is the number required. Are these in place in your housings? I'm not getting a picture in my mind but it seems I remember something about their holding the brake band mechanism aligned/centered & thinking that if the brake rod where pulled too much & got cocked it could hang up. Have you adjusted your brake pedals so there's only about 1/2 inch or so needed of pedal travel before the brakes engage. I have extra springs rigged to the pedal linkage to insure they disengage. The pedals should be level with each other. When everything is right the brakes apply when you apply the "clutch". I'm not feeling as if I'm expaining this very well. The brake system works two ways. The discs expand and press against the outer cover I the torque tube, they are probably working. What I'm talking about is the brake band assembly that closes around the drum. Good luck. packratc
Sorry should have looked closer to illustration above. Please refer to picture #50 above. It says "attach band retractor springs to the band ears." Are your band retractor springs in place? packratc
.......... quite a description packrat ....... keep away from that corn product .........
To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research
Have you updated your user profile yet?
Here he is, finally, the Grand Pooh Pah of the 580CK and all others of yellow color, he finally shows up to render aid to a friend in need. And what does he do? He comments on my lame attempt to help and he comments on my writing. AND, advises me not to drink corn whiskey. Give me a brake! Majakarot, if you can get Alrman on the Case, instead of on it like he is on mine, he can get it fixed for you. He has mystical tools that can reach all the way across oceans and twist your nuts for you. And, have you priced corn product lately? I ordered some for kin folk the other day and it cost half my Social Security check. (Alrman, Social Security is a monthly stipend for old folks from the gooberment. Mine's not enough to buy hydraulic fluid.) Packratc
I had no idea what an interesting crowd I was getting involved with
I ordered all new springs, the springs that hold the bands back were very suspect to me when I put it together, I expected that they would hold the bands tight back to the case, but they barely pulled them off the drum. The new bands I ordered had holes and slots where the old ones had just holes for the springs to go into, (i possibly incorrectly used the slots because they were closer to the original location) it is possible the spring ends pulled through the slots. As soon as the new springs arrive I will take it back apart hopefully learn something.
I read something about the clutch applying the brakes on full throw, and most assuredly mine does not, I have an actual clutch though and not the torque converter, don't know if it makes a difference. I believe my brakes apply somewhere around 3-4" but I just set it to match the other side.
That illustration is a bit different than mine though, is that the hydraulic unit? mine just has a rod passing through the case where that case appears to have some mechanism there.
Thanks for all the help.
I should have been paying more attention. I don't know if the brakes have anything to do with the manual clutch setup. Do you Alrman? I do think you'll be better off with the new springs to keep the linnings in place. If Alrman gets on the job, he knows his stuff. Good luck, Packratc
It's been a long time since I've worked on those, but if memory hasn't went "poof", the drum retainer springs have a round, conical end and an end with a hook on it. Drop the end with a hook into the hole. It will drop until conical end "sits" in hole. Then you extend the spring with a tool and hook it in the slot in opposite drum. This arrangement does two things, 1) holds the drum halves together and 2) provides "retract" spring action to force balls to roll back down ramps when you release the brakes.
The springs that go on the brake bands keep bands from "riding" on brake drum when brakes are not applied and provides "retract" spring action for brake bands as well.
Yes, there should be good "brake lining" on the outside of those drum halves. If the linings are excessively worn, or missing, it can cause drum to expand too far causing balls to get stuck at end of ramps. The surface of the ramps and condition of balls are important as well. Flat spots on ramps or worn balls can cause brake "lock up".
Cleaned everything real well, replaced all the springs and put it back together with the peddle set a little higher. All seems well so far. Thanks for all the info.
Ahh, Again you're a lucky man, majakarot. Willie 59 is a major contributor of knowledge, wisdom, & kindness. Between he, alrman of the down under, and some other folks like oldman, you get anything fixed on an old Case on this forum. Merry Christmas to you all and may all your leaks be small ones. Packratc