Gravel Cocktail

[Effinay]

I could use some input from the more experienced members ....Here goes; I have a gravel driveway, approximately 800' long x 8-10' wide. The variation in width is due to my lack of landscaping the boundries, and just kind of driving where I want to. Another interesting feature is that there is approximately a continuous 2-3% grade over its length. This varies a little also due to snow removal, and feeble attempts of back dragging trying to make a smooth/flat surface. Over the years I have purchased the occassional load or two of reprocessed asphalt from our local quarry, and spread it around to fill the ruts and help minimize the run-off of the fine materials. I've been doing a bit of homework to get familiar with creating a crown, providing drainage along the sides, and who knew there was so much to all of this. Most of us just drive around without giving this stuff a second thought. I've recently come across one of those "How to" sites, and it recommends using a "blend" of materials to help bind things together as it's being compacted, and also to minimize losing all your "fines" when we have those occassional flooding cloudbursts. Creating the crown will be challenging as I'll be using my rubber tire loaders to push the stuff around, then probably do the finish with one of those gynormous loam rakes I've got. Information, tips, and tricks are very welcome....Head shaking, finger pointing, and the appropriate tsk, tsk, is anticipated and I'm ready for it. Thanks for your time and help!

[lgammon]

sounds like you have the info you need....now for the fun part, put that info to the dirt and see how it works out!

[Scrub Puller]

Yair . . . Effinay. I have recently reconstructed our drive about the same length as yours. All I have in these retirement days is a little eighteen HP tractor with a rear grader blade. Rear blades are usualy pretty hopeless but years ago I found that if you fit them with castered wheels they become a pretty handy tool and I was able to build a crown and shape the formation pretty good.

I wouldn't get too technical about the gravel, I think the main thing is having the drive formed up with reasonable drainage is the main thing . . . as well as having a machine to keep it maintained.

Cheers.

[Bluetop Man]

he main thing . . . as well as having a machine to keep it maintained.

Don't use 610 road base, or you will never cut into it with an 18 hp tractor after it sets up.

I'd get some siliceous rock, which will stay loose, with a few fines in it and let it go at that.

[mark edwin]

Would it work to use 610, and then after it is compacted, comeback with about a 1" layer of washed 67 stone for dust control and maintenance purposes

[Bluetop Man]

Yes. That will work very well. I've even seen farmers use cheap pea gravel on top of a good base as they could haul the pea gravel in their grain trucks, whereas the larger grades of stone will not unload easily from a hopper bottom. Pea gravel is easily reworked and gives a good ride. Just don't put it where there is a high potential of washing away by heavy rain of flooding.

[buckfever]

Is the driveway elevated form the surounding ground? If not maybe you could fill and bring the drive up a couple of feet. This would help to keep standing water off the driveway and reduce the chance of a washout in heavy rain.

[CM1995]

A small crown and good drainage is the key. If you have any washboards or potholes, these need to be ripped up and prep'd before you put any gravel down since they will transfer through any gravel you lay down.

Obviously without seeing the drive first hand it makes it difficult to give any advice. I like to use 3/4 crusher run as it has a nice mix of larger stone (3/4") down to fines. It sets in and at least has some resistance to washing. As with any surface, the real key to longevity is the sub-base. If you put gravel down over crappy sub-soil, you will just waste your money. Make your crown out of dirt and then place your stone, don't make the crown out of stone because it will deteriorate over time.