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Thread: Charging problem

  1. #16
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    Sounds like Regulator/rectifier to me. And or bad connections. Some isopropyl alcohol and and acid brush would tell for sure. I never spend $50.00 when $1.00 does the trick. Keep me advised...

  2. #17
    Senior Member NCPIPELINE's Avatar
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    Ok so the new voltage regulator has arrived, still showing the dumbie charging system light on console.... What next...

  3. #18
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    What is the stand alone voltage on your battery (not connected to anything)? Must be at 12.5 to excite the engine coils to create the feedback to recharge the battery. I know sounds wrong because we are all used to starting a car with a low battery and they charge up while running. These don't as far as I was told. Gotta have a good battery to get a good battery. Also connections! Check and clean all connections. I just got my regulator today $135.00 going to put it in and hope it works...

  4. #19
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    NCPipe, that's a permanent magnet alternator, it produces alternating current (AC), not direct current (DC). They have a low amp output therefore don't charge real hot at idle, engine has to be revved to get a good charge from them.

    You should test those two blue output wires with multi tester set on AC current, can't remember what voltage should be though, thinking it should be more than 20 to 25 volts AC.
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  5. #20
    Senior Member NCPIPELINE's Avatar
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    So will check both wires for AC and repost, thinking the alt is bad?

  6. #21
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCPIPELINE View Post
    thinking the alt is bad?
    Don't know at this point, only saying you need to test it to find out. Since it only has two wires going to it tells you it's a permanent magnet alternator, does not have an external exciter wire, meaning, when it's turning, the permanent magnets create the magnetic field to generate current. Being that it's an alternator, it generates AC current. And since AC current does not have the equivalent horsepower as DC current, it has to generate at least 20 to 25 volts AC to produce required 13 +/- volts DC output at the rectifier.
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  7. #22
    Senior Member NCPIPELINE's Avatar
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    Ok so alt tested fine, checked the ground checking everything seems good. But I am still getting the dumby charging system light on console and after a few days of use battery is dead....

  8. #23
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    Do you have the electrical schematic?

  9. #24
    Senior Member NCPIPELINE's Avatar
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    No.

  10. #25
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    see if this helps. it's for the model 322= dingo. http://www.imarksweb.net/aws/view.ph...ZfV1BNLnBkZg==

  11. #26
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    battery not charging = charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Or the battery is bad. If the battery is good; then the charging wire is not supplying power or enough power. Mine was a bad rectifier and harness. You just bought a new rectifier... wired correct?? don't go by the last guys wiring.... The last guy that wired mine had his head up his butt.

  12. #27
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    sorry just read this guide and it doesn't explain the dingo.. it said it did. ill keep looking

  13. #28
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    I think you can download the schematic here but you have to sign up. http://www.blitzdownloads.com/search...dingo+322.html

  14. #29
    Senior Member NCPIPELINE's Avatar
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    Which one is the charging wire?

  15. #30
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    The one that returns from the regulator/rectifier to the starter solenoid (same side as the battery connection) usually a white wire.

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