I have a manual with the parts breakdowns is all . Not a repair manual. I'll get a pic today and get it up here. Thanks !! What would you make your own pullers out of ?
I have a manual with the parts breakdowns is all . Not a repair manual. I'll get a pic today and get it up here. Thanks !! What would you make your own pullers out of ?
SteelOriginally Posted by chambie
Seriously though, it depends what the challenge is. If you're trying to pull something where you can hook legs behind it, or clamp a grab in behind, you're probably better off with a conventional puller set.
I never seem to have those sorts of problems come my way so I've developed a range of techniques over the years. I used to make one, break it, then make it stronger etc, etc until I got the job done. These days, I've got better at assessing the problem (or sick of doing the job twice!) so they usually work first time.
A basic pulling task comprises a centre shaft and some sort of round thing on it. Generally the manufacturer will have made some provision for dismantling and there'll be some means of getting hold of the object you wish to pull off, usually two or three threaded attachment holes. Sometimes it's possible to screw through those holes on to the surface behind (suitably protected with a bit of scrap) and push it off without a puller at all.
The alternative is you need to pull it off. My basic puller these days comprises a piece of steel plate, ranging from 1/2" through to 1 1/2", depending on application, a threaded hole in the centre and non threaded holes to correspond with the attachment holes. I favour a coarse thread with a bit of slop in it for the centre bolt. Means you can tap it with a hammer to break things free. With a fine thread you might get a bit more power from the thread but they're too tight and the tapping doesn't work. The coarse thread still exerts a good force and then a tap with a 4 lb hammer exerts a lot more. Mostly I tap to 7/8" UNC, simply because that's my biggest tap.
However you do it, be kind to those attachment holes. Strip them and you're in trouble. I've seen the results where someone put a piece of flat bar over the centre shaft and tried to use the attachment holes to pull against.Not a pretty sight!
Yair . . . all good advise there from nutwood I reckon. Next step up for pulling sprockets on tapered splines and the like is to use an ordinary ten to fifty ton hydraulic jack. Most will work on their side provided the puller is assembled with the pump on the bottom.
As nutwood mentioned most sprockets/flanges that need pulling will be provided with three attachment holes. I use appropriately sized high tensile threaded rod through these and a circle of (say) inch plate drilled with three generous clearance holes at the same pitch circle as the holes in the sprocket.
The threaded rods are assembled to the sprocket (ensuring there is at least a full nut behind the sprocket) the plate is slipped onto the rods and the nuts run down to position it to the dimension of the closed jack.
Provided the pump is down the jack can go in either way. If you have the jack base against the end of the shaft always use a piece of plate to spread the load across the base of the jack.
With the jack in place give it a couple of pumps to take up the slack. Now adjust the nuts on the puller plate to get all the rods the same length.
This will take a bit of messing around but you need to get them close and then check the jack for centred and that every thing is square.
Most assemblys of this type have the sprocket or the flange retained by a large fine thread nut and it is assumed that it is removed? If so dismantle the jack again and run it on to within about an eigth of an inch of the sprocket or flange. It is absolutely vital that this is done.
This type of pulling with the forces involved is inherintly dangerous and if you havn't done it before you should proceed with caution. The set up as described is fine but substitute a piece of mild steel threaded rod and potentialy there's a problem, jack off centre maybe a problem.
The biggest mistake you can make though is leaving off that retaining nut. I have seen it several times and what usualy happens is that every one gets a hell of a fright and that fine retaining thread gets badly damaged . . . in the worst case I saw a bloke badly hurt when the whole assembly popped of the end of the shaft.
Back to the pulling. Put a bit of pressure on and step back and check that every thing is square. If it's all okay keep on pumping till close to maxing on the jack. If it doesn't come "ring the bell" as we used to say by giving the sprocket or whatever a good whack with a fourteen pound hammer . . . they usualy pop with a helluva bang.
Best of luck . . . and be carefull.
Cheers
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I got it off !!! I ended up using a 3 arm puller that i borrowed from a friends garage. It just fit !! he laughed when i told him what i was up to, and said he had 2 pullers that were in the garage when he took it over, that he had never used. Said they were laying under a bench for the last 30 years !! I stuck it on the hub.. cranked it up tight, and then "rang the bell " !! That mother came off right now i tell ya !! Glad i wasn't standing in front of it !! So .. i'm down to pulling the bolts that hold it to the frame and sliding it off. Naturally the bolts won't budge with just a socket and ratchet... or breaker bar. haven't put a piece of pipe on it yet... i think i'll try and get an impact from work and see if that works for me ! So close .. yet so far !! Thanks for all your advice !! It's perfect !!
Lindsay
Last edited by chambie; 06-01-2012 at 06:02 PM.
Well done.How come it never works that way for me
One of my most useful tools for working on machinery is a 5' length of 1 1/2" steam pipe. Don't know where I'd be without it!
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