Case 450 with Fuel Problems

[mr hurt]

ohh didnt even think about bolt in back.

thanks will they to post better pictures of disassembly and installation in a couple weeks when i come back home.

[thepumpguysc]

keep the throttle tied back to the full throttle position..

[mr hurt]

ok, explain further. tied back while taking off shaft or just tied back the whole time off?

[thepumpguysc]

While taking off and putting back on, otherwise the flyweights inside the pump may become dislodged and all hell will beak loose when you start your engine.

[mr hurt]

ok will do, and i looked in the case manual under "all hell breaks loose" and didn't find anything. But it sounds expensive.

thanks for the help.

[mr hurt]

ok,
i'm going to feel real stupid after i ask this, but i have never hear the expresion "Bob's your Uncle"

What does that mean?

[thepumpguysc]

It means, "there you go" or "your done"..
EVERYONE has an uncle Bob..so there you go..lol

[alrman]

Here you go Mr hurt - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob's_your_uncle

I didn't mention about wiring up the throttle to full - as it is going to a shop to be overhauled - when ever you collect them from a shop, they will always be wired up.

[mr hurt]

ok,
i made it back from korea, and i spent the afternoon working on my dozer, nothing helps jet lap like grease under your finger nails.

so i took a picture before i started.

then i rotated the motor till the timing marks lined up.

then i took a picture of all the extras taken off the pump.

before i removed the pump bolts i stamped the body and pump to line backup with.

then a shot of the shaft after taking pump off.

[mr hurt]

then i found a tag, dont think motor is original case, might be a rebuild at sometime.

then i took a picture of my special modified 9/16" wrench. flap wheel grinder made it just the right size.

then i got a shot looking into the pump, showing the dot in the tab.

any special tips on how to get the seal to go back into the pump on the reinstall?

[thepumpguysc]

NICE JOB. Those pictures are worth their weight in GOLD for someone whose never done it before.
Stanadyne[roosa master] makes a special "front seal installer" tool and that too is worth its weight in gold. Its a small, thin "pliers" that go around the seal and collapes it to allow for insallation into the "pilot tube".
You can do the same thing with your fingers tho..Just lube the seals and tube WELL, I use vasoline, because its soluble and will wash-out quickly and not clog anything.
Good luck and keep us posted. TPG

[mr hurt]

next question is do i replace the copper washers that go to each individual fuel injector? the was one on each side of the banjo bolt going into the fuel pump.

and on the injector end of the line is there a seal or o-ring there or just flare fitting seals it?

[thepumpguysc]

They come in the kit and will be supplied with the overhaul. Just put one on the screw and slide the other under the line and tighten to 25ftlbs.[or snug enought not to leak]
Flare fitting on the line is all.

[dwloop]

Mr Hurt, when I replaced the pump seal on my case 188, I found that an OTC #4494 fuel line tool would hold the seal down until the pump slid over. Be carefull not to roll that seal over or you will have a lot more engine oil than you need in a short time (Diesel in the oil).

HTH

Dave

[thepumpguysc]

Loop, you are correct, I never connected the two. The tool looks VERY similar to a fuel line tool. IDK what the OTC tool costs but I think the OEM tool is about 15.00.

Hurt, they changed the "copper washers" to "teflon[steel] washers" so dont freak when you dont see abunch of coppers in your kit.