Streering Clutch repair Cat 931b
I want to start the replacement of the streeing clutches, should i jack up the loader to do the job ? Does anyone have experence with this type
of loader and the clutch brake system etc. . Thanks wosama931b.
i purchased a service manual on ebay, it is in great shape and what i need to know is there, but some stuff is unknown, i guess that will be the experence of the work
i'll try to post some photo as i get back to it and let everyone know how its going. wosama.
hi everyone, wanted to catch up on this thread, after power washing the cat 4 times to try and get it clean i started to take it apart. The first thing i noticed was that
the brake leaver pin hole was worn where it comes to the leaver to the brake. Also the carier bracket was loose, where the hyd. lines connect, and the rods were
about all the way ajusted that connect to the brake pedal, Tomarrow i hope to remove the cover and proceed to remove the brake and clutch, I have been taking
photos and hope to post them, so everyone can see what ever i run across, wosama931b.
Update on clutch repair/brake band replacement, I have reinstalled the left side, it was a job for me, my first Cat operation. What i found out was that i had wet
clutch and a half worn out brake band that had been greased with moly, there was no oil in the case. It looked to me like they used a couple of tubes of grease on
the brake, insted of putting in oil, like TO-3 or 4. I guess that i did the best i could with it, Ill know for sure when i get it back to running. My next step is the right
side, now that i know halfway what iam doing it should be easer, Thank god for my magnet on a stick, Be sure you have one. I have a few photo that i will try and post. The left clutch was still in good shape, i took it to the Cat Part Dealer and got the opinion of them, there was an old guy there that had a lot of experance.
The clutch itself requires some special tools to take apart, How i found out the deifference between the dry and wet clutch is the pronges that go in the groves in
the brake drum, dry ones are wide and short triangle shape and the wet clutch is sharper with metal tips that are squire on the end, but its hard to tell unless you
have oil in the case, otherwise you have to remove it, slide the brake drum off to see. More talk soon, wosama931b
Here are a couple photo, Try and send more later,
Hello, Getting to the clutch, Lots of stuff had to be removed, The left side was the weak side, I did get a small chain hoist to put it back in, getting the holes lined up
was the hard part. I had the come along hooked to the track to move it so it would line up the holes, and a chain wraped around the top of the cab to hook up the small chain hoist. The right side looks good except for the leaver and needing some adjustment, the center compartment with the ring gear was full of oil and looked ok so i resealed it after cleaning the gasket surface, and taking care not to drop anything in it. i would like to thank Rigandig for his pointers, his information on the repair was a great help, i'am greatful for some good sound advice and knowledge, but i think he is a better wrench bender than i am.
I love threads like this....we need more pics!!!
I have a D3 79U series here. I don't think the wet clutches came until the C series. Your 931 looks like the same base tractor. I have been in the steering clutches of my D3 in the past. The photos of yours on here looks just like mine inside. THis is not a real bad job. Pull the seat, battery and battery pan as you have done is all that needs to be done for access to the clutch compartment covers.
The brake pads for the brake bands are available separate from the bands. Saves lots of money. If you have to replace the fabric discs they are a lot of money. Should not be any moly grease or any other type of grease in there.
Check the o rings on the actuating cylinders while you have it apart. Quick and easy, might as well put new ones in while you have it apart.
When back together tighten up the brake band till snug than back of a half turn or so. There is also a procedure in the manual to adjust the brake band from the bottom of the compartment housing.
Like I said. THese look like the dry clutches on my D3 79U series.
DON'T FILL THEM WITH OIL TILL YOU KNOW FOR SURE. If you do fill with oil and they are really the dry clutches the clutch discs will be ruined and you will be back at it again with a big bill for the clutch discs.
Good luck with it.
Hello Greg, The Cat people said that i had wet clutch's, I had purchased dry clutch for it, but when i put the dry clutch up to the brake drum it did not match, that's
when i went down to the cat parts dealer. From what i understand, the later model 931b had wet clutches, i think they must have changed about 87/88 year model.
Also the number of fiber disk on the dry clutch are less than the wet disk, I though for sure that i had dry clutches, fooled me.
One way to check is dry clutches will have the brake band support screw under the steering clutch housings (under tractor)...oil clutch/brake do not have this feature.
Lots of confusion over this as dry and wet options were used even in later models.
Thanks, Old Magnet, That explanes a lot, i do not have that adjustment screw, only drain plugs, i was wondering why i did not have the adjustment screw.
One other thing that i wonder about is the oil, TO 3 or TO4, what is the difference and what should i use ?? Thanks.
The universal tractor transmission oils TO2, TO3 etc. are obsolete designations as of 1990 and have been replaced by TDTO (tractor drive train oils). Use the TDTO oil or equivalent with Cat's recommendation of SAE grade for your temperature conditions.