Ok, i get what your saying now. There is no banjo bolt on the top right fitting, its a barbed fitting the rubber hose slides over. I will try to pressurize this tomorrow. Thanks!
So i pulled off the outlet side of the injection pump, used a jumper wire to the stop solenoid and pressurized the fuel tank. There was no fuel coming out of the outlet of the pump. What does this mean?
Not to be rude, but you DONT get what I'm saying. The BARBED FITTING is held into place by a BANJO BOLT[17mm] THAT IS the return fitting[17mm banjo bolt]
REMOVE the entire bolt, energize the solenoid, and pressurize the tank, wait till you get fuel spilling out the top of the pump[banjo bolt area/return]
Keep me posted.
are you even getting fuel to the filter when you pressurize the tank?
I really dont think i can get that outlet banjo bolt out the way this thing is shoe horned in there. Thats why i removed it from the hose barb. I was able (i think) to get about a quarter turn on it. As it is, i think the radiator will have to go to remove that or the whole pump.
Yes i am getting fuel to the filter when its pressurized. All the way to the inlet of the pump.
Ok, so today we removed the outlet banjo bolt and connected a inline pump between the tank and filter. We have fuel from the tank to the outlet of the injection pump. Any ideas?
Solenoid "jumped" and lines loosened at the injectors? and still no fuel squirting at the injectors?
Sound like the IP needs to come off.
Let me backtrack to a previous post to get the pump # and I may be able to assist you in the removal.
IF you have fuel in and fuel out and the solenoid is opperational, and the pumps not pumping, thats about all the diagnosis you can do.
Acording to the pump breakdown, the drive shaft on the pump is keyed and is driven by a gear in the engine, so the pump will only go on 1 way. BUT the pump itself is bolted to the engine block "on slots" for fine tuneing timing. See Voodoo's picture..
Make a scratch mark on the pump and block OR trace the outline of the pump onto the block BEFORE removing any bolts!!
Your going to have to access the plate infront of the IP to remove the nut that holds the gear to the IP driveshaft.
IF you have some "white-out" mark the gears to oneanother incase the pump gear moves away from the drive gear.
The pump gear and pump driveshaft are "tapered" so you will need a puller. Normaly there are 2 or 3 threaded holes in the gear to aid the puller. Just remove the nut and washer, screw the nut back onto the driveshaft FLUSH with the driveshaft end[keeps from messing up the threads on the shaft when puller is screwed down] Install the puller and pop the gear off the shaft. DONT REMOVE THE GEAR, leave it in the engine. Send pump to pump guy for repair..lol
Incase you were thinking about getting a service manual, the engine manuf. is KOMATSU..and the model is..S4D95L