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Thread: 580SE Lucas Injector Leak

  1. #1
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    580SE Lucas Injector Leak

    Name:  Diesel_Leak_480_11-20-11 002.jpg
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    I bet several folks have this problem.
    I finally found the fuel leak by cleaning the injector pump.
    It leaking underneath the throttle lever right there on the top right of the photo.
    But when I go to the case parts there is no seals etc available. Seems I have to buy a reman unit ($1100) just for a small leak.
    I found a manual on the injector although it's not the exact one, and shows no seal/rebuild kits etc part numbers.
    It looks like the cover has to come off as the stem seal is underneath the cover.
    This means I need the gasket for the cover plus whatever seals.
    Has anyone found these parts available?
    Mine is a CAV (Lucas) U3042F152. S/N 25250417
    Also A50L800-1-2400 on the unit which I believe settings used.
    I think the current Case # is J908645 or JR915882

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    I got seals and gasket for mine from my local diesel shop, these pumps are extremely common so they should have gasket and shaft seals.

    Hope some one will cone on and confirm this as its been a while since i did mine, the throttle lever shaft had a spring connection onside, so take the lever off the shaft and then as you lift the cover push on the shaft so it stays with the pump, that was the only little tricky bit. That is how I remember doing it.

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    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
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    Case do not supply any parts for these pumps except for the shut off solonoid. Like Bala said, speak to local fuel injection shop & they can supply parts. Pumpguysc is the local guru & has helped other members, come on thabull where are you now?
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

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  4. #4
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrman View Post
    Case do not supply any parts for these pumps except for the shut off solonoid. Like Bala said, speak to local fuel injection shop & they can supply parts. Pumpguysc is the local guru & has helped other members, come on thabull where are you now?
    I have looked online and finding replacement parts is not easy to find. I found enough to see that they do offer rebuild kits although mine is working great, just leaking.
    Seems the places I have found wants to "rebuild them" and reset/recalibrate or whatever they do.
    That "A50L-1-2400" stamped on the side related to how they set them up, and I don't understand all this.
    I just want diesel fuel to stop leaking down onto the engine.
    I actually tightened the little nut today on the throttle linkage and helped this leak I think. However now one of the bleeder screws is also leaking.
    I would like to have all new seals for the unit.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Goose's Avatar
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    You can reseal the shaft with seals from your local pump shop, but the housing and shaft are worn and will probably leak after awhile. Our pump shop rebuilds the covers and installs a new sleeve in the housing and a new shaft. We stock 2 rebuilt covers so check your pump shop to see if they can rebuild your cover or have a rebuilt cover on the shelf. We get about $175.00 for the rebuilt cover and needed gaskets.

  6. #6
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goose View Post
    You can reseal the shaft with seals from your local pump shop, but the housing and shaft are worn and will probably leak after awhile. Our pump shop rebuilds the covers and installs a new sleeve in the housing and a new shaft. We stock 2 rebuilt covers so check your pump shop to see if they can rebuild your cover or have a rebuilt cover on the shelf. We get about $175.00 for the rebuilt cover and needed gaskets.
    I don't really have an injector shop close, but I am looking. Do you have one rebuilt that I can buy for $175, and is this fairly easy to remove and replace?
    And if so are there any adjustments that will need to made later that are critical?

  7. #7
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Injector Rebuild Kit

    I did find this...
    But I am not 100% sure it's the correct one. They offer just the upper gaskets/o-rings for only $9 + shipping. The whole rebuild kit is $34.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/390359206687...WAX:IT&vxp=mtr

  8. #8
    Senior Member Goose's Avatar
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    I have a couple on the shelf or I can get you in contact with my pump shop and have them ship you one. There is a core charge on the cover also as they want the old cover back. As far as installing it is a little tricky as you have to lift the cover up about 1/2 inch and unhook the spring between the lever and the governer. As far adjustments the only thing to adjust after the cover is replaced is the idle and full throttle settings.

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    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Same thing happens on Bosch pumps on Deutz engines. Throttle shaft wears housing so new seal is not effective in making a seal, have to fit bushing in worn housing so seal can do it's job.
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

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  10. #10
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie59 View Post
    Same thing happens on Bosch pumps on Deutz engines. Throttle shaft wears housing so new seal is not effective in making a seal, have to fit bushing in worn housing so seal can do it's job.
    Do I understand correctly that I should not buy a $45 seal/gasket set and do this myself?
    What does replacing the bushing involve? Drilling? Pressing in?
    I suppose the $175 price includes $15 of gaskets/seals for the top and the labor to replace the bushing and insert the o-rings.
    That $34 complete rebuild kit I found on e-bay has some form of stem showing in the picture.

  11. #11
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Pump_Plus.pdf
    I'm not sure this is exactly what mine looks like inside, but it has to be similar.
    I suppose the spring mentioned is the governor spring that connects to the throttle lever that is leaking.

  12. #12
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    I have the same exact problem with my machine, it is leaking really badly, but the pump works fine. Goose, I would like to buy the parts to replace it from you since you helped me identify my ghost controls problem in another thread. Please pm me or post how I can get in touch with you to get the parts ordered. Thanks, Chuck

  13. #13
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowen View Post
    Do I understand correctly that I should not buy a $45 seal/gasket set and do this myself?
    We don't really know what you're cabable of bowen. You need to decide if you are going to do this. It may need a bushing fitted to the throttle shaft to make it 100%, but I have resealed many of these without the need. The injection shop I use to get parts won't sleeve them any more, as the brass bush is not as durable as the original alloy, so new covers (cav # 7180-872N) are fitted when they are needed. A new shaft may also be req (cav 7123-770L ) - these are a little different to the original as they are no longer available. The supplier will hopefully advise you.

    Some pump shops like to play their cards close to their chest, they won't give any advise as they want the pump in their shop........

    If you decide to do this, you need to be VERY CAREFUL lifting the top cover off the pump as the spring can go on in a number of different configerations & if you get it wrong, the pump won't run the same. Also there is a small clevis pin & a tiny spring involved that can go missing.

    Here is a pic supplied by another member, THE SPRING & PIN LOCATIONS ARE DIFFERENT TO YOURS. But it shows in inside fairly well.
    As you lift the cover - note the correct mounting points for your application & don't drop any of the small parts. Long nose pliers are a must have.

    Goes without saying - you want NO DIRT in your injector pump - so clean the work area thoroughly.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by alrman View Post
    We don't really know what you're cabable of bowen. You need to decide if you are going to do this. It may need a bushing fitted to the throttle shaft to make it 100%, but I have resealed many of these without the need. ...
    If I can find the correct kit for mine I am going to order a kit and try this myself. I have fixed lots of stuff I never worked on before. I actually almost have my stem leak fixed just by tightening the shaft nut a bit.
    But at least one of the the bleeder plugs are leaking after the engine get real warm.
    If I decide to take the head off, I have a guy to help me. I likely would NOT try drilling and pressing in a new brass bushing, unless a new cap was really expensive. I already got one response from a shop in MI wanting $350 to $550 to repair my unit and I would need to ship it there. Unit down for at least 10-14 days.
    I think you are right about the shops. They DO NOT want to sell the parts, which are relatively cheap. They want to get the units into the shop so they can use $25 worth of parts and charge $400 as "rebuilt". I just have some small leaks.
    I will check the stem closer later to see if I can feel any loose axial motion.
    Many thanks for your advice.

  15. #15
    Senior Member bowen's Avatar
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    Wow. Looking for these part numbers you listed is wild.
    This one on the shaft...
    http://www.omsdiesel.com/product.php?grup_id=3does not list the part number ending in "L" but they do show an oversized version.
    This place is in Turkey!
    I found the cover you note on Ebay but the picture does not look exactly like mine. It's cheap!
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=p5197.c0.m619

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