Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Cat 416c IT steering cylinder removal?

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    11

    Cat 416c IT steering cylinder removal?

    Gents,
    I am trying to remove my steering cylinder. leaking.
    How much force is acceptable to apply to the cylinder to remove it?
    Spanner nut off, snap ring removed. Tap on the spanner nut end? with what?
    Any good tricks her to get the cylinder out?
    I think I can pull the piston out from the left end (snap ring side) if I push the end back inside to remove the internal snap ring per Cat diagram.

    Your thoughts are appreciated. I will try to attach photos.



    Name:  Cat 416c left side steering cylinder.jpg
Views: 1331
Size:  61.6 KBName:  416c_right side steering cylinder.jpg
Views: 1248
Size:  70.2 KB

  2. #2
    Senior Member Nige's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    G..G..G..Granville...........!!
    Posts
    4,207

  3. #3
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    11
    Thanks Nige,
    Yes I have been following that thread. I will try to just pull the piston from the snap ring side. I was wondering how much force to apply to the spanner nut end to get the cylinder out and how best t apply that force? - Lee-online or Jeremiah - comments?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    In a van, down by the river
    Posts
    1,023
    They can be real stubborn to get out. I would try a big dead blow or a sledge with a piece of oak to protect the cylinder. Once it starts to move it should come right out.

    If all you are doing is resealing it then just pull the rod out and leave the can in the axle.

  5. #5
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    9,811
    I agree with Lee. Remove outer snap ring, knock gland in a bit to access and remove internal snap ring, then go to opposite end and whack rod end with sledge on hardwood block. Over time pressure on the internal snap ring can cause a kerf on gland head or cylinder barrel where snap ring fits causing the gland to hang up when sliding out. I've had single acting cylinders of that type that I've had to push rod back into cylinder and shoot piston port with air making the rod zing out and whack the gland with piston to remove them. Gets interesting sometimes.
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

    http://www.bluediamondattachments.com/

    Read Forum Rules Here

    Please don't respond to spammers...makes our job tougher mopping up their mess

  6. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    11

    Cat 416c reassemble front steering cylinder

    Lee-Online and Willie59 -
    Many thanks. I did give up on the getting the cylinder out. I did just as you had suggested and pulled the rod out from the other side after releasing the inner ring.
    Inner barrel of the cylinder looks fine - no rust or corrosion.
    Before I reassemble ( the machine is 900 miles from the house) any thoughts on aligning the inner male end of the tie rod so I don't cross thread the piston? The 'ball joint' on the inner part of the tie-rod (see photo) is really stiff and due to bent shape of the outer end of the tie-rod I cannot rotate it due to spindle interference...suggestions?
    Thanks Jon
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  7. #7
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    9,811
    If you greased up the cylinder and seals real good for assembly, just turn the rod on the cylinder to make threads on tie rod.
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

    http://www.bluediamondattachments.com/

    Read Forum Rules Here

    Please don't respond to spammers...makes our job tougher mopping up their mess

  8. #8
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    11
    Thanks Willie59
    I was thinking about that approach. I'll have to work both ends since they are both right hand threads. One will undo the other - I assume.
    What grease do you recommend for assembly?
    Will the system burb any air out - or do I need to do anything after assembly but before finalizing?

    Jon

  9. #9
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    9,811
    Since they're both right hand thread ball joints and the rubber seal boots are busted, I would connect ball joint of one tie rod by turning cylinder rod and turn it until it's almost set. Then connect opposite tie rod by turning rod until you grab enough threads to hold. Go back to first joint and lock it down by turning ball joint and holding rod. Then complete fitting ball joint #2. They will be snug to turn, but your alternative is to knock the ball joints loose at steering knuckle. If the seal boots are intact, I don't think they will take twisting and you would have to knock joint loose at steering knuckle.

    I use Loctite Viper Lube assembly grease on seals and to press piston inside barrel and spray some WD40 or similar lube inside barrel to make it slippery for piston so it's not dry until oil gets in there.

    Air will purge itself out as you begin operating the cylinder.
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

    http://www.bluediamondattachments.com/

    Read Forum Rules Here

    Please don't respond to spammers...makes our job tougher mopping up their mess

  10. #10
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    4
    I have the same job going on but the seal kit my book showed is wrong. Can any of you give me the right seal kit number?
    Thanks

  11. #11
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    11

    Cool

    1more4me - if your steering looks like mine - see photos in the thread - I used seal kit - 178-7189
    I also replaced the snap rings inside and outside - 095-0928 and 130-6884

    I was new to the game so it took a bit of doing to get everything apart - but went together quite smoothly. The center seal (middle) on the piston was very tight. I worried it was going to break - but made it. If there is a "Next time" I would lightly heat it in a cup of boiling water to make it more supple. Reassembly - per - Willie59 I was able to rotate the steering piston on the first tie rod (right side from driving position) and then after some adjustments to the tie rod end - I was actually able to rotate it by hand making up the left side of the piston - and then still got the tie rod end to drop into the spindle hole. Also B&B diesel service (Jeremiah Sr. and Jr.) in Houston was great!
    See the link above from Nige for the original thread.
    Best of luck
    jon

  12. #12
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    4
    Gaynojm,
    Thanks for the reply- completed the job yesterday. That was the correct seal kit number. I did put the piston seal and all the gland center seals in a thermos of very hot water and it did make it easier. Both boots were busted so they unscrewed easy enough. If I had to offer any helpfull tip- it would be to use 3 phillips screwdrivers to bend the inner seals into a U. After 20 tries I realized the seal and 3 big fingers just wasn't going in there...
    Then to top it off- after I got it all cleaned up and ready to take front end off the block- I pushed bucket down to lift front end and blew the flex hose right under cab/over fuel tank. And the never ending saga continues....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •