Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 31

Thread: 580ck coolant blowing out rad cap

  1. #16
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Britsh Columbia Canada
    Posts
    71
    Is the oil in the radiator engine oil or Hydraulic oil?? I might suspect the hydraulic oil cooler in the bottom radiator tank.

  2. #17
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    oil in coolant

    The machine came with the rad with the cooler at the bottom of the rad but I replaced it with one with no cooler. I added an external cooler so is not possible for the hydraulic oil to get in the rad. Thanks

  3. #18
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    580ck

    I suspect the torque wrench I used when changing the head gasket may have been out of calibration. My question is: Can I just tighten the head bolts to the right specs without changing the head gasket and see if that was the issue or do I need to change the head gasket? Thanks

  4. #19
    Senior Member Tinkerer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,096
    Check your head bolts with another torque wrench that you know is accurate. Those bolts may be tighter than you think. Did you change the head gasket because of the oil/coolant problem ? Or was there another reason for the gasket change ?
    Did you do a real through radiator flush after you swapped it for the new one ? The engine block may have retained oil in the water cavity and then contaminated your new radiator.

  5. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    580ck

    I put the new/used rad in because the one that was in it was leaking. I changed the head gasket because it was leaking, coolant in the oil. Both were changed last year and had no issues until working the machine this summer. The problem did not start right away but after maybe 40 hours of use. It actually was working well. This time there is oil in the rad, coolant was blowing out the rad cap and that was when it was noticed there is oil in the rad....I did do a flush after finding coolant in the oil. The guy I bought it from says there was work done to one of the cylinders. I had a seized valve and bent rod but I corrected that problem when I changed the head gasket.

  6. #21
    Senior Member Tinkerer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,096
    Quote Originally Posted by steve loving View Post
    The pressure tester is a good investment. Before starting with everthing cold hook up radiator tester and start the engine. If pressure starts building before the water starts to warm up you have problems because heat is what builds pressure in the cooling system so if nothing is warm yet its coming from gasket/crack somewhere
    Have you followed Steve's recommendation. That is the first thing that should be done.

  7. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    580ck coolant

    Upon removing the head bolts, I noticed they were not very tight. Found out my torque wrench is defective. There was coolant all across the head. So I assumed my problem was due to the defective wrench and bought a new one and changed the head gasket. Well seems I am back to square one.......No longer than 3 seconds after firing the machine up, coolant starts squirting out the rad cap. I might be wrong but am not convinced the head is warped, had it checked at a local machine shop. Any other things I should be looking for? FYI, the motor is 188 diesel. Thanks

  8. #23
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    QLD Australia
    Posts
    1,663
    Sometimes the problem is at the block. Check liner protusion & then place a straight edge across all the liners & see if they are the same height. If there is any difference, it will allow the gasket to leak. To repair properly the block must be decked (machined) & all counterbores for liners checked/machined. BUT, I have had some success where machining was not an option & I have cut some shims to intall under the liner flange of lower cyls to even out the height problem.
    If the liners are even, it is possible a liner is cracked, allowing compression to escape to cooling system. Never actually seen this myself, but worth looking at.
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

    Have you updated your user profile yet?

  9. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    580ck coolant

    Pulled the injector from the second cylinder from the fan and the coolant stopped blowing out the rad. That cylinder had work done to it before and there are chunks out of the head at that cylinder. Might be a hairline crack in the head? The piston and sleeve were also changed on that cylinder prior to me owning it....

  10. #25
    Senior Member Tinkerer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,096
    FWIW this is the proper way to check the sleeve protrusion. I learned this in one of Phil's threads. The instrument is called a Uni-Mike Micrometer. Mine is made by Mitutoyo. Phil wanted to buy it form me when I was done with it.. But I have not been able to contact him. I wonder what happened to Phil. I miss seeing new posts from him.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  11. #26
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    QLD Australia
    Posts
    1,663
    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer View Post
    FWIW this is the proper way to check the sleeve protrusion. I learned this in one of Phil's threads. The instrument is called a Uni-Mike Micrometer. Mine is made by Mitutoyo.
    Huh! After all these years I always thought my fingernail was good enough!
    Good onya Tinkerer!
    To steal ideas from one person is plagiarism. To steal from many is research

    Have you updated your user profile yet?

  12. #27
    Senior Member Tinkerer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,096

    Wink

    Thats a good one about the fingernails Alrman !

    Quote Originally Posted by skidoomanott View Post
    I had a seized valve and bent rod but I corrected that problem when I changed the head gasket.
    skidoomanott ,
    What caused the valve to seize ? The head must have had a lot of stress put on it if you had a seized valve that would bent a connecting rod. Those rods are really tough.

  13. #28
    Senior Member dwloop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    St. Louis, MO & Wayne Co, MO
    Posts
    196
    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer View Post
    Thats a good one about the fingernails Alrman !



    skidoomanott ,
    What caused the valve to seize ? The head must have had a lot of stress put on it if you had a seized valve that would bent a connecting rod. Those rods are really tough.
    I assumed he meant it bent a push rod...

    Dave

  14. #29
    Senior Member Tinkerer's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    1,096
    Quote Originally Posted by skidoomanott View Post
    Pulled the injector from the second cylinder from the fan and the coolant stopped blowing out the rad. That cylinder had work done to it before and there are chunks out of the head at that cylinder. Might be a hairline crack in the head? The piston and sleeve were also changed on that cylinder prior to me owning it....
    Chunks out of the head ??? It must of had a broken off valve bouncing around in the combustion chamber. That would explain the reason for a new piston and rod. If it were me I would be looking for a replacement head to rebuild. Or better yet a remanufactured head with a warranty.

    dwloop, I also am sure he meant a pushrod . I took the statement he made for what it meant.

  15. #30
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    canada
    Posts
    40

    580ck

    Gonna try and start from the beginning but want to say I appreciate all input.
    580ck 188 D motor. When I bought it, the rad was leaking and seemed to not be running on all cylinders. I changed the rad, bought a used one and installed an external cooler to save money. Also installed a mechanical temp gauge. After some use, there was coolant in the oil, blown head gasket. I pulled the head off to change it then noticed the seized valve and bent push rod. It was just floating around. I bought a used rod and some used valves. My friend ground down the valves to resat them. I have a good service manual so we followed the manual when we did any repairs. The bent rod and seized valve were in the cylinder closest to the fan. Also noticed that the second cylinder had damage to the head, score marks. Rather big ones. The guy I bought it from told me that one cylinder had a piston and sleeve changed and by seeing the score marks in the head, it was easy to see that it was cylinder two. Got it back together and no leaks but still not full power. A guy came out to take a look, Phil from this forum and said it looks like my valves need to be adjusted, he was right. Thanks Phil. So now it is running good, full power. That was last year and got to use the machine a bit. Then this year, used it for a bit when all of the sudden the coolant starting shooting out the rad. That happened after using it for an hour or so and only when I parked it and it was idling. So this time there was oil on the inside of the rad cap. Another head gasket. So off it came only to find the bolts were not tightened to spec, defective torque wrench. There was coolant across 3 cylinders when we opened her up. So I assume if I buy a new head gasket and new torque wrench, it should be good to go. Not the case. About 10-15 secs after firing her up, coolant comes out the rad. This time, no oil in the rad cap. So we remove the injector on cylinder two and not coolant coming out the rad. I put the injector back in and coolant starts to blow out the rad. So I now know it is that cylinder that is giving me the problem. Pressure is getting from the cylinder to the cooling system. Everyone says the head is notoriously tough so I want to rule the head out. My question is/are: Is there anything to do to diagnose before I pull the head off? When pulling the head off what should I be looking for. I am not a mechanic and my friend helping me is a "backyard mechanic" and never worked on diesel but is good and getting his hands dirty and trying to figure stuff out. I appreciate all the help here and look forward to some more feedback. Thanks

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •