Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Ford 4500 Backhoe Diseal pump problem

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    1

    Ford 4500 Backhoe Diseal pump problem

    Hi I am new here. I have a 70s Ford 4500 3 cyl diseal hoe. This machine has run great since I had it. This winter after some extreme cold I found Ice in the fuel filter even though I had run fuel conditioner thru the machine. I brought the machine inside emptied the fuel tank, changed the filter, blew out the lines, drained the pump by the bleeders. I installed fresh fuel,new filter, bled lines, and pump. I can not get the pump to work. I have disconnected the lines going to the injectors at the pump, but I get no fuel coming out. Also can someone tell me how to check the position of the timing gears which drive the fuel pump. I have looked around and can not seem to find a CAV pumpfor this machine, or anyone in the Maine area that repairs them. Thanks one and all for any help.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    220
    the pump timing on this engine is pretty muck idoit proof ..Take the 5 bolts out of the front cover in front of the pump .Inside there are 3 bolts that hold the pump drive to the gear take them out .Notice there is a pin that locates the position of the pump drive ...It can only line up one way ...Next take lines loose and before taking the 3 nuts loose from the front cover plate look at the one nut thats about 2 oclock there will be degree marks ...make note for a reference on your install ..take them nuts out and pump will come out .....If you notice the 3 mounting lugs are slotted this is so you can rotate the pump and change timing ...dont know who to tell ya send it to in your part of the world ..I'd start asking some equipment and truck deealers in your area who they use for pump work ...Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Senior Member daman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Bad Axe,MI
    Posts
    237
    There's a bleed bolt on the side of the pump crack that wile cranking should have fuel spitting out(bleeds pump),close that then crack each line up at the injectors wile cranking should start to flow.

    have a batt charger on so your not stressing the battery.
    1975 FORD 4500 TLB(740/755) Industrial 201 ci Diesel 2236 original hrs

  4. #4
    Senior Member frogfarmer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    South East Missouri
    Posts
    234
    I have seen those pumps go 10,000 hrs plus and still work. If you had water in the system for a long time some of the parts may be scored or pitted and the pump is weak. I have seen several of these pumps that didnt pump much fuel at all. Make sure the pump is bled, throttle is wide open, fuel shut of is in the run position, all high pressure lines to injectors are open(may take a full turn of the nut), and have someone hold it in the start position. You should see spurts of fuel at the injectors. It may take several spurts to clear the air from the lines. When the spurts are strong and steady lock the nuts down one at a time with the engine turning. You should hear the sound of the engine change with each nut you tighten and it will likely start with only two nuts tight. Once it starts back the throttle down to half and open and close the nuts one at a time and watch the spurts and listen to the engine. If the spurts are all strong and the engine changes noticably with each injecctor all should be well. Reduce throttle to an idle and all shoud be well. Those pumps can take a ton of abuse and for one to crap out all at once is unlikely.
    Cat D6; Bobcat 843; S185; 811 Backhoe; Rock Grapple; Forks; Massey MF175; MF202; New Holland 3930; Case 580k; Scag Wildcat; F550 4x4

  5. #5
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    9,809
    My experience with those old gravity feed Fords are if you run them dry, or clear the lines like you did, they can be a bear to get going again because they don't use a lift pump to force fuel into the injection pump. Try putting an air nozzle wrapped in rags into the fuel tank fill and give the tank a few psi of pressure while cranking.
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

    http://www.bluediamondattachments.com/

    Read Forum Rules Here

    Please don't respond to spammers...makes our job tougher mopping up their mess

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by ATCOEQUIP View Post
    My experience with those old gravity feed Fords are if you run them dry, or clear the lines like you did, they can be a bear to get going again because they don't use a lift pump to force fuel into the injection pump. Try putting an air nozzle wrapped in rags into the fuel tank fill and give the tank a few psi of pressure while cranking.
    When I bought my 5550 from the local Ford dealer, his mechanics did the same thing with the airhose and rag. Never having been around diesels, I didn't quite know what they were doing. But the 5550 has a lift pump, I have to loosen that screw on the side of the injection pump and work the pump lever until no more bubbles are in the fuel dripping out of it. I only had to crack the injectors one time, when I ran out of fuel. Just changing the filter, I had to bleed the injection pump and it started.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Delaware
    Posts
    146
    On the 4500, you have a bleader on top of the fuel filter that needs to be bled first. once it is bled, there is a bleeder on the injector punp. Open the bleeder on the injector pump, and with the stop knob pulled out, crank the engine until fuel comes out of the bleeder without any signs of air. Tignten the bleeder on the pump. At this point I try and start the tractor. If it does not start, crack the injector lines at the injector one at a time and crank the engine until air free fuel is coming from the injector. Do this with all three injectors. At this point the tractor should start.

    John

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Va.
    Posts
    220
    Quote Originally Posted by shopteacher 1 View Post
    On the 4500, you have a bleader on top of the fuel filter that needs to be bled first. once it is bled, there is a bleeder on the injector punp. Open the bleeder on the injector pump, and with the stop knob pulled out, crank the engine until fuel comes out of the bleeder without any signs of air. Tignten the bleeder on the pump. At this point I try and start the tractor. If it does not start, crack the injector lines at the injector one at a time and crank the engine until air free fuel is coming from the injector. Do this with all three injectors. At this point the tractor should start.

    John
    STOP KNOB IN RUN POSITION ...let fuel flow ..

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    new york
    Posts
    10
    If you drove the machine inside which it sounds like you did. Then you are just fighting to get the air out. Small amounts of moisture, water in the filters is common and cannot be avoided (condensation is always going to happen) and diesel fuel systems are made to catch and hold this moisture. Many have bleeders under the filter to let the water out, which should be checked monthly.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    32
    I also put an air hose in the line and that worked for me. Also not to got off topic, but on my 4500 with the CAV injector pump, I have a fuel leak on the fuel pump. It is on the small plate right where fuel enters the pump. This plate is held on with two bolts, with some wire through them.

    Can I simply bolt on a new plate, and connect my fuel line. I was just wondering if there was anything behind the plate I might mess up.
    Thanks!

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by csthompson12 View Post
    I also put an air hose in the line and that worked for me. Also not to got off topic, but on my 4500 with the CAV injector pump, I have a fuel leak on the fuel pump. It is on the small plate right where fuel enters the pump. This plate is held on with two bolts, with some wire through them.

    Can I simply bolt on a new plate, and connect my fuel line. I was just wondering if there was anything behind the plate I might mess up.
    Thanks!
    I meant in the tank not line

  12. #12
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Knoxville TN
    Posts
    9,809
    I don't see anything behind that plate that looks like it would be an issue by taking the plate off. Probably just needs a new gasket. I take it you're talking about item #54.



    Name:  Ford 4500 injection pump.gif
Views: 7484
Size:  74.9 KB
    A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless!

    http://www.bluediamondattachments.com/

    Read Forum Rules Here

    Please don't respond to spammers...makes our job tougher mopping up their mess

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    usa
    Posts
    32
    Yes it is #54, thanks for the diagram.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •