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Thread: Case W20 loader question

  1. #1
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    Case W20 loader question

    There is a 78 Case W20 loader in the are for sale at a pretty reasonable price. Havent really been around Case loaders that much except for an old W14 feedlot special we loaded manure with. Is the W20 a fairly good machine would mainly just load gravel with it? Is it stout enough to dig pit run and no get torn all to heck? Looks like its in really good condition for being over 30 years old just dont know enough about Case to know to stay away or not.

  2. #2
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    i have owned one since 1999 it is a pain to start when it gets under 40 degrees and the brakes do not work other than that it has been a good machine

  3. #3
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    I've had one for 6 months. Starts in the winter fine if it is plugged in. I like mine, but I will like it more if I can get the water out of the hydrlc oil. I don't now if it will dig in hard packed stuff or not. If I need to dig in virgin ground I use an old Cat 955 track-loader.

  4. #4
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    i have a 1986 w 20 c case loader , it runs fine but seems slow and not allot of power !!! im looking for a manuall and some parts !!
    i live in chilliwack bc canada, anyone got a used servese manuall or a line on parts ??? thanks

  5. #5
    Senior Member gggraham's Avatar
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    The W20 at least has the 401 not the 336 grenade. They are a pretty simple machine to repair. Some parts especially engine wise may be getting a little scarce but still around. The cylinders are all chevron packings so easy to come by. Make sure you keep air tanks drained of water or add an after market desicant dryer.
    Heavy vehicle mechanics have bigger tools.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/98203149@N08/

  6. #6
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    Just picked a 20c open cab for $7500 delivered, the engine and tranny seem to be in good shape but the brakes are toast, looks like the front axle seals need to be replaced as well. Hoping to rebuild the calipers and turn the rotors, anyone have any luck doing this?
    Also what is the difference between a w20, w20b and w20c?

  7. #7
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    The case w20 and 20b used the 401bd engine, w20c used the 504 engine, w20 had drum brakes and the B/C had disc brakes, lots of change in the elect system, 20/b/c hyd system stayed at 48 gpm and steering at 23 gpm, the paint also was changed from case and black to power tan.

  8. #8
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    Shaffer's in IL is your best bet for used parts.
    Just got my brakes working - never knew there was a rear master cylinder!
    Mine has an orange AG engine in it. If I post pix and #'s, can somebody tell me what engine it is??

  9. #9
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    I have an 85 w36 front brakes will not release! Any suggestions? Brake fluid is fine and there is air pressure to the master pot thing! Is there a way to back the brakes off so I can still use it? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

  10. #10
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    I would first check inside the cab for material under the brake pedals, these machines with the pedals on the floor have a history keeping the brakes applied if the floor is not kept cleaned up. While working the workers boots push mud, dirt,stones under the lower edge of the pedal causing the brake pedal not to release fully and can lead to your problem. First alway's is safety with you and workers around you, this machine is about 4 yard size and rear brakes alone will not stop it very good with a full bucket and will trash what is left of you rear brakes. Once the pedals in the cab are checked, check main air line to the booster for air flow( engine off, air system charged) crack the line and lisen for air flow to the chamber, if there is alot of air pressure there the foot valve is leaking by inside or the pedal is still not releasing fully. Next remove the bleeder screws from the rt/lt calipers or crack the line to allow the fluid to bleed off, if machine moves now the problem is the master cylinder not allowing return, bent crimped tube/line. If brakes still do not release the calipers are stuck or material has built up behind the pads causings it not to release and the only thing you can do is remove the wheels unbolt the calipers and repair them. Have you checked you parking brake for release also. Keep wheel chocks close by and use them while repairing. Brakes need to be fixed.

  11. #11
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    I checked to air line to the master cylinder and it was kinda wet and oily so I took out one of the bottom bolts on the air pot and there was an oily sludge that came out. So I took master cylinder off and brakes released. Think it is either build up of compressor sludge or brake fluid or both. Any other suggestions?
    Thanks

  12. #12
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    i'm a young man that grew up in family sawmill and logging and i want to start my own logging outfit. i'm on tight budget and i'm looking for a loader of any kind {that you still can buy parts for ** to put me over the top and jump start me to work. if there is any out there please send me an email at hondaking0@gmail.com thank you

  13. #13
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    71cometgt, sounds like you found the problem, need to bleed your air tanks several times to try and get the oil and sludge out of the system, some of those had a auto drain on the prim tank and a bleed valve on the second. We did rebuild those brake actuators at one time and they are not to bad to do if kits are still in the case system. The actuator may only come as a complete unit also now. I would carefully brake the unit apart first to see if the inside is any good before ordering parts, may get lucky and pull it down and clean and put it back together. Your m/c may be alright to reinstall if it's not leaking on the plunger end. If you don't have a parts book, type in casece.com, you can go to the parts look up and type in w36, it should have several listed, just watch the machine S/N. You will need to service your compressor soon if oil and sludge dosen't stop showing up while bleeding the air tanks, might want to remove the auto bleed and put in a manual drain for awhile if you think it's not doing it's job.

  14. #14
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    Thankyou sheepfoot! I drained the air tank and it had a fair bit of sludge only see one air tank though.

  15. #15
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    Hey I thaught I would give an update onmy W20C purchase, turns out the axlle seals were toast and the oil built up on the pads and calipers. After cleaning them up the pads had a ton of meat left and the rotors looked great, replaced all the axle seals and put it together. Brake pedal did not have much movement and the shuttle valve and air horn did not work so we pulled the pedals assemblies apart and found a ton of dirt had fallen down in the valves over time so we cleaned all the air valves up in including the horn and everything came back to life, brakes work great now.

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