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Thread: Repairing creeping Bobcat

  1. #16
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usediron View Post
    Is the adjustment procedure basicly the same on the 773 and 863's. I have a 863 1999 vintage.

    thanks
    Your machine should have the same components. Being a '99, I'd say you have the aluminum pintle arms.

    BTW, welcome to the forum usediron.
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  2. #17
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    Not sure what years, but some of the older 863's used cables to control servo spools in the pumps, instead of manual linkages......way different procedure for adjustment.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrfixitpaul View Post
    Not sure what years, but some of the older 863's used cables to control servo spools in the pumps, instead of manual linkages......way different procedure for adjustment.

    Yeah, been a while since I've seen one of those cable jobs, I would think by '99 it would use the link system. Not certain about that myself.
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  4. #19
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    Would this fix work on a t180 that one track is going faster than the other?

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by punchlist View Post
    Would this fix work on a t180 that one track is going faster than the other?

    Welcome to the forum punchlist.

    You mean one track faster than the other, like, when you have the drive levers all the way forward, one tracks is faster than the other, making the machine turn?
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  6. #21
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    This is the problem exactly and I havent looked at the adjustment but the machine seems slower in forward than reverse. But the right control seems to go farther fwd than the left?

  7. #22
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by punchlist View Post
    This is the problem exactly and I havent looked at the adjustment but the machine seems slower in forward than reverse. But the right control seems to go farther fwd than the left?

    Common adjustment problem on Bobcats, easy to fix. For this, you would adjust the flat linkage bars that go from the drive lever control rods at the front and connect to the pintle levers on pumps. The drive levers typically go foward until they hit the cutouts in the front plate behind your legs. If the right seems to go farther forward, I'm guessing you need to make your left drive linkage bar shorter.

    With engine off, raise the cab. You'll see those two linkage bars in the center of the machine. About the midpoint of the bars, the two piece bars are connected with 3/8" bolts in slotted holes. Facing from the front of machine, the left drive bar would be the one on your right. Take a Sharpie, and put a mark on the forward portion of that bar about an 1/8" from where it joins the rear section of bar. Slightly loosen connection bolts, wiggle the bar connection while lightly pulling back on left drive lever until the rear section of bar meets the mark that you made on front bar, lock bolts down. Make sure you have the linkage bar straight and not a dog leg angle at the connection. You simply adjust the bars until the machine tracks straight when you have drive levers thrown all the way forward. If it still travels faster in rev than fwd, and you want the fwd speed, shorten both bars (left and right) until you achieve this.
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  8. #23
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Well, time to post an update to the creeping Bobcat thread. We have an S185 that we purchased new, has right around 1000 hours on it now. The spools and centering bars have already been replaced twice by dealer during warranty service. Now, it's creeping again, more wear on spools and centering bars. Dag nabit! This is about annoying! Damn Chinese steel! I called my Bobcat dealer and talked to the Service manager. Told Issac what was happening and asked if there was anything we could do to fix this annoying problem. He said "yeah, I'll put together a parts list for ya and fix you up". Our machine has the two piece steel pintle arms, but I suspect if you have the aluminum pintle arms that have these worn spools and bars, these parts may work on them as well.

    Safety Warning: Never perform these repairs unless machine is raised of the ground and resting on sufficient stands/blocks with all wheels off ground and free to turn.

    While waiting on my go-fer to go get parts, proceeded with removing components. Now this S185, unlike the 753 at beginning of this thread, has a hydraulic driven fan. These components make it really difficult to reach in work on the drive centering plate components, removing the spools would be difficult. So, instead of repairing centering spools with pintle arms attached to drive motors, I opted to remove pintle arms.

    Cage the centering spring as shown in post #1 of this thread, remove centering spring/bolt, and remove the centering plate. You now have access to the pintle arms.

    Remove the nut that attaches links from drive levers to pintle arm, you have to hold the bolt head from underneath or bolt will turn on this model. Then remove the two 3/8" bolts that attach the pintle arm to the drive pump lever.

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    Now you simply lift the pintle arm off of the pump shaft lever. Yeah, there's those junk worn centering spools.

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    Flip the pintle arm over and clamp centering spools in a vise, remove the retainer bolts and remove spools from arm.

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    Your going to have some wear on the centering bars as well, remove the bolts that mount them and turn them around 180 degrees and you'll have a new surface to work with.

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    Ok, here are the goodies. Stud mounted cam follower bearings, 4 flanged nuts, 4 thick shim washers, and 8 thin shim washers.

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    Here's your parts list from Bobcat and todays parts prices per each:

    (4) #6673789 cam follower bearing $29.14
    (8) #25E17 thin shim washers .98
    (4) #6557831 thick shim washer .78 (less than thin washers?)
    (4) #98D6 flanged 3/8-24 nut 1.38
    Or use a Timken CRSB-14 cam follower bearing from a bearing supplier, appx 17.00 each
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  9. #24
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Here's the assembly process. Place one thin shim washer and one thick shim washer on each cam follower studs. This makes them the approximate same height as the old spools.

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    Mount the cam bearings to the pintle arms with new flanged nuts.

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    Install the reversed centering bars using one thin shim washer between centering bar and centering plate. For the centering bar that has two round bolt holes, lock that one down tight. On the opposite end with slotted holes, push centering bar away from opposite bar and lightly tighten bolts, they will be adjusted later.

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    Now re-install the pintle arms on the pump levers, lightly tighten the two bolts that fasten the pintle arms to the pump lever. Fit the drive lever link bars to the pintle arms, make sure the pintle arms are parallel when locking down nut on drive lever link bolts. If you have pintle arms forward or rearward and lock down nut on link bolts, the torsion bushings in pintle arms won't be set properly. Go back to post #4 of this thread for drive neutral adjusting procedure.
    Got everything back together, cam rollers contact centering bars perfect. You can see two of the cam rollers in left side of pic. Don't think I'm going to have a problem with this for a while. Sweet!

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  10. #25
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Time for an update to this thread. One common problem with Bobcat drive pumps is leaking seals on the pump control shafts. It's an easy fix, doesn't require drive pump removal or major disassembly. If you happen to be in there doing repairs to the pintle arms or drive centering and you see leakage of the pump shaft seals, you should consider replacing the seals while you have things apart. This one is on a T200 track machine.

    Once you have the drive centering plate and pintle arm removed, simply remove the 4 bolts that mount the centering plate guide bracket.


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    Remove the guide bracket, you'll then be looking at the seal plate.


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    Lift the seal plate off of the pump.


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    There's the lip seal you need to replace.


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    There's also a ring seal that seals the shaft seal plate and pump housing. Some models use an o-ring seal, others use a square cut lathe ring seal, you're Bobcat dealer may ask which one your machine uses, so you might want to get a peek and see which one you have before you order/pickup your parts.


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    One thing to keep in mind, there's going to be some oil leaking out when you remove the seal plate. On this one I wasn't terribly concerned because it has already made an oily mess in the area. But for one that's just seeping oil, and you don't want to make a big mess, keep the hose from your suck bucket evacuating the oil from the area while you have the plate off and are replacing the seal in the seal plate.

    Also, be sure and polish the pump control shaft with fine emory cloth to remove rust or roughness of shaft before re-installing the seal plate. Use your suck bucket to remove the rusty oil caused by cleaning the shaft.
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  11. #26
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    Very clever use of zip ties. I will file that idea away for use whenever I disassemble components with springs in tight spots.

  12. #27
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    Thank you for posting Atco. If you were to put all this information in a book. Put me down for a couple of copies.

    Have a nice day.

    Sam

  13. #28
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam_French View Post
    Thank you for posting Atco. If you were to put all this information in a book. Put me down for a couple of copies.

    Have a nice day.

    Sam

    LoL...me thinks I'm already in the process of putting together the book here Sam.
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  14. #29
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    Would that be the same on my T190 2003 bobcat

  15. #30
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    would that be the same on my T190 2003 as it is here for the creeping bobcat?

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