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Thread: 580k brakes

  1. #1
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    580k brakes

    I have a 1988 case 580k backhoe that needs new brakes and am looking for info on how much it would cost for parts and how bad of a job this is to do. i work on cars and whatever but didn"t know how much i would have to take off to do this. Any Help is greatly appreciated!!!

  2. #2
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    gggraham or alrman should be able to give you a rough idea of the cost as well as what's involved. The good part for you is the 580 Case has the brakes outside the transaxle housing for easy service, unlike other machines that you have to take the rear axles apart to service brakes.
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    Senior Member gggraham's Avatar
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    What makes you think you need new brakes? Are you sure the master cylinders are good and both slave cylinders are working? How far off the floor are the pedals? Possibly you just need to adjust them up these brakes did not adjust automatically. When the brakes are applied you should just get the toe of your steel toed work boots between the pedal and the floor. Thats our technical spec ..haha Do not adjust them to high off floor or brakes will grab when hot. See included diagram for adjusting nuts. If adjusting up doesn't help they are not bad to service, drain transaxle, remove the adjuster nuts, remove the bolt and clamp holding slave cylinder on. Remove slave cylinder, remove bolts from outer brake cover (see pic) remove cover and drop brakes out. I think last time I did brakes the plates and discs were about $100 each. depending on how many are bad what the cost will be. After servicing brakes I put new transaxle fluid in and we always added an extra litre of limited slip to help prevent brake squeal.
    The 580K brakes were pretty good, not too many worn out that I've seen.
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    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Hi Gil, now that I think about it, I haven't even been into K brakes before. I have had to adjust as you mentioned. I've been into plenty of the old brakes like on the D with that cam drum and the little springs that like to break. Looks like the K is a much better design, no wonder I haven't been into them. I will say I didn't mind working on the Case brakes, didn't have to drop the axles ya know.
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  5. #5
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    580k brakes

    Thanks alot guys. There are definitely a lot of experience on this web. I tried to adjust them but didn't help. You have to press pretty hard on the pedal to stop. Also when you step on one pedal and it pushes the other one up, is that normal? Shouldn't be to bad with all the info. Thanks Dave
    Last edited by fasstang65; 10-08-2009 at 02:45 AM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member alrman's Avatar
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    If you have good pedal & the brakes are not pulling you up, it could be that there is the wrong oil in the transaxle. 85w140 will stop the brakes from working properly. The case oil is called 'wet brake oil' - pretty clever eh! Its a heavy type oil with additives specially made for case. Some people use a new holland oil, similar name - its a lighter grade but works well. I've seen big hours on 580K's here where it has been used since near new.
    There is a pipe which links the 2 master cyls together to equalize pressure, so the rocking feeling of the pedals is normal.

  7. #7
    Senior Member gggraham's Avatar
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    alrman: Is that what they call it overseas...here it is called Transaxle fluid. Comes in a brown labelled pail and has additives for the brakes. Seen a lot of people put plain old gear lube in a have brakes screw up. I have seen a lot of 580K's with tons of hours and no brake wear at all given that the fluid is changed regular. Our biggest problem has always been rotted brake lines, slave cylinder leaks or master cylinders in need of a reseal.
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    Have a brake related problem with my 580B CK with shuttle transmission.The oil seal is leaking in my brake housing. Removed the cover and the brakes. Tried to remove the plate that holds the seal by taking out the two flathead bolts, but could not get the plate to come off, so I stopped that not wanting to damage anything. Pulled the seal by putting sheet metal screws into the seal and pulling it with visegrips and a bar. Installing the new seal did not go well at all and it leaks. Am I going about this the right way? is there tooling that I can make or buy to make the job go better? Thank you for your advice. These threads are very informative, I really enjoy reading them.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator willie59's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eljay View Post
    Have a brake related problem with my 580B CK with shuttle transmission.The oil seal is leaking in my brake housing. Removed the cover and the brakes. Tried to remove the plate that holds the seal by taking out the two flathead bolts, but could not get the plate to come off, so I stopped that not wanting to damage anything. Pulled the seal by putting sheet metal screws into the seal and pulling it with visegrips and a bar. Installing the new seal did not go well at all and it leaks. Am I going about this the right way? is there tooling that I can make or buy to make the job go better? Thank you for your advice. These threads are very informative, I really enjoy reading them.
    Welcome to the forum Eljay.

    gggraham is a Case mech, but he's like me, very little experience with the B Case. The guy you need to help you is Phil. He's in the sack by 9:00. When you make three posts to any thread (except TGIF), after a short period of time, you'll become a Junior Member and be able to start your own thread. Once you can do that, start a thread that mentions "580B" in the title, and I'll promise you Phil will spot it and respond.
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  10. #10
    Senior Member Phil's Avatar
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    Eljay,
    I've had a hard time getting those bearing carriers off in the past, if the machine has no cab. Rust will bind the carrier in the bore of the transaxle housing. Lots of WD40 and driving screwdrivers in from all sides. Try and avoid the corners, it is cast iron. If it moves a little, then tap it back in and repeat the process. The shims can usually be repaired, if they are not rusted too badly, or replaced with the identical thickness. No one likes to talk about using a hammer and a screwdriver but we've all done it.

    When oil soaks the brake linings they have to be replaced.

    It's a good idea to reseal both sides, including the carrier o-rings and the 2 differential lock seals. If just doing one side, there is a possibility the other side will start leaking because you have disturbed it unless you lock the brake on.

    With the brake assembly off on one side, lift the side gear shaft up and down, noting any play. There should not be any. Use short bolts to hold your carrier tight against the transaxle housing for this test. Phil

  11. #11
    Senior Member Ando's Avatar
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    Does anybody have the min thickness specs for the fibre brake disks?
    My transaxle has some pretty evil looking sludge on the bottom, can the unit be flushed with diesel?

  12. #12
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    great info. This is exactly what I was after. Does Hytran equal MS1317?

  13. #13
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    With regards to the min thickness spec for the fibre brake discs, I looked in the factory service manual and can't find anything with regards to min thickness. The only thing I find is the procedure for changing them....not any specs.

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    Does the emerg brake work off the wheel brakes?

  15. #15
    Senior Member bill onthehill's Avatar
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    On my 580 K it is a pinch caliper grabbing a disc separate from the service brakes. The lever has the cable adjustment as part of it.
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