02-07-2010, 10:58 AM
Hi Joe, will start a new tread, guess that will be open a long time until model is finished.
About the scale, itīs 1 to 5.6 .
Why, because when planning for the model, I thought that there should be some comercial available track/chain that could be used. 1,5" pincenter on chain are a standard and when translated to pincenter on D8R , thatīs where 1to5,6 comes from!Well, ended up not finding anything that looked like the original so had to do them from scratch. Had already made drawing on the model so did stick to this scale.
Today Iīm regretting this choise, have big problem to fit everthing inside that small car body.
More pics from the begining will come on seperate thread.
Keep ut your wounderful work Joe!
02-07-2010, 11:02 AM
02-07-2010, 06:03 PM
Great work. I will be keeping an eye out for your own thread. Your D-8R and 463 look great.
I have been following Joe's D-9R for a long time, and it performed top notch when completed. I am sure yours will as well.
How's your pan coming?
02-10-2010, 09:03 AM
Jerry, I'm waiting on some hydraulics stuff to come in for the pan, then I can finish major fab work, and start the detail. Been working on some stuff for another guy,lately.
02-14-2010, 12:52 PM
doing some hydraulic cylinder for my D8R now, I have a question:
Do you have any safety valve or compensating valve on the blade cylinders when using the tilt cylinder?
When looking at the real machine, The blade cylinders has to move up/down to compensate for tilting. have not found any small valves that can be used.
02-14-2010, 01:14 PM
The lift cylinders are connected in parallell on the real thing so if you do that on the model too you'll be fine.
02-14-2010, 02:51 PM
Per, last week looking at the real machine, when only using the tilt cylinder, the blade/lift cylinder was going one up and one down! This must be possible, to make blade higher in one end. According to CAT parts manual there is a "valve compensator" donīt know if this make movent possible.
02-14-2010, 03:54 PM
When one cylinder goes up it pushes oil into the other one making it go down, ie making it able to tilt without sending or recieving oil from the valve bank.
The only time this wont work is when the cylinders reach the end of their stroke, then this valve comes into play and opens a channel inside the cylinders.
Like if the blade is lifted very high up or low down when tilting.
02-15-2010, 07:14 PM
The way I done mine was ''T'' off the feed and return lines of the lift cylinders and it takes care of itself.
02-15-2010, 08:24 PM
woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooow very incredible......
02-16-2010, 07:19 AM
Hi did some drawing,
guess it should look like this. Now only to find a small valve for this!
thanks for the input
02-16-2010, 07:43 AM
did it little to quick, now when studying the drawing and oil flow, it shouldnīt be a problem.
As Joe said earlier, the T coupling will take care of the differnt movment.
So it should look like this!
02-16-2010, 06:27 PM
That's it Dan.
As far as valves go, Ric at GardenTrucking.com can fix you up, if your not going to be pushing to much volume. Which, you may be to big on scale, because these valves are only a 3 mm port. But he has single up to 6 valve blocks.
I'm running a 2 valve, 174psi or 10bar, 350ml pump, and I would like a little more volume. Good luck.
02-20-2010, 08:57 PM
Well I have a little progress done on the pan, but for some reason it will not allow me to post pics anymore. Does anyone else have this problem?
03-01-2010, 04:24 PM