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Thread: BD2G steering problem

  1. #16
    Member kneelo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonezz View Post
    i have a bd2gII, does anyone have the diagram for pulling out the steering clutch,? ive ordered the manual from rhine , but may take some 2 weeks to get it. any info greatly appreiciated???
    thanks
    Diagram of the steering clutches can be found here

    http://www.tpaktopc.net/PDFs/BD2G%20...CH%20PARTS.pdf

    I assume you have removed the seat, panels and top covers and disconnected the brake bands. Then you need to remove the bolts from each side of the drum. They are part 34 on the drawing and there are 10 each side from memory. You will need to rotate the track a little to get to them all. I do this by using a jack under one of the track grousers at the back of the tracks. Once all the bolts are out the drum and clutch pack need to be loosened and moved away from their attaching flanges before you will be able to lift them out as there are steps in both mating faces.

  2. #17
    Administrator Squizzy246B's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Heavy Equipment Forums Kneelo!
    Regards from the Scrub somewhere near Karratha, Western Australia

    Squizzy


    _____________________________________________

    Its better to be ignorant and ask a Stupid Question than to be plain Dumb and not ask at all - Screamed by High School Maths Teacher, 1979

  3. #18
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    I cannot post new thread, so can i ask where to get a hydraulic filter for our BD2G?
    It is about an '86. I will check books and serial number, but where do you get parts, etc?

    Thanks,
    Jerry

  4. #19
    Member kneelo's Avatar
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    I have found aftermarket replacements for the engine oil, fuel and air filters but not the hydraulics. I have the details at home and will post them in the next few days.

    For the hydraulics I ended up having to buy a genuine replacement filter as no one I tried was able to match it. Genuine parts generally seem to be available though dealers of mitsubishi graders/excavators etc. In australia that is BT equipment and in the states I believe Rhine equipment supply parts, but there is probably others.

  5. #20
    Member kneelo's Avatar
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    Baldwin filter numbers for a BD2G:

    engine lube - BT292
    fuel - BF1110
    air - PA1667-FN

    The genuine mitsubishi hydraulics filter part number is 58873-12200.

  6. #21
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    I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .

  7. #22
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    wont turn left

    I have a strange problem with my bd2g . the right steer and brake work fine . the left will not release the clutch - if pulled back fairly hard , it will actually want to stall the motor with brakeing on the left side . anyone have an idea where to go with this ? The rear left hose has constant psi after the hydrolic valve with the steer lever pulled back or not pulled back . the right side has no psi until the steer lever is pulled , then has high psi .

  8. #23
    Member kneelo's Avatar
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    I had the exact same problem with the left steering clutch which turned out to be a siezed up clutch pack due to corrosion. I never checked the hydraulic pressures but if you have bought it with this problem perhaps someone has previously has had a go at adjusting the linkages to fix the problem and now the clutch pressure always stays high on that side. I knew I had a problem for a long tame before I decided to fix it properly.

    As well as the frozen clutch the linkages for my brakes were also quite stiff so the brake band wasn't releasing properly. I found someone had put an extra spring on the linkages to try and fix it. I have stripped both clutches and replaced clutch plates on the left and spacer plates on both sides as there was a fair amount of corrosion on the other side too. I have freed up all the brake linkages and am just waiting for the band brakes to be relined before it goes back together. When it does I'm going to put some silica gel desiccant pouches in both sides and keep an eye on them as this has been a fairly expensive and time consuming exercise.

    Aftermarket steering parts are available from www.steeringclutch.com and John is very helpful. If you have any trouble getting the frozen clutch pack to come out let me know, I had to make tool up in the end to compress mine and get it out.

  9. #24
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    Wont turn left

    Thank you for the reply . I ordered a service manual for this unit so i could inspect it further . I did not want to just start taking it apart and hoping that i would just run into something . How hard (time wise) was it to get to the clutch packs on each side ? I am guessing that they must be a dry clutch due to the corrosion and yourself putting in moisture absorbing bags ? Again , thank you . I anyone has any tips while working on this , please let me know . Thanks a million .....Roger

  10. #25
    Member kneelo's Avatar
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    I'm not sure of your background but I found these fairly straight forward to get out, but it is always a bit slower when youre flying blind. I did try to get a service manual but after sending a couple of emails to rhine equip they never bothered to respond... It would be good to have I think but they are very expensive in aus.

    Getting the clutches out was easy for one side and very difficult for the other. Half a day or so to get it all opened up and take the first one out then a bit over a full day and a lot of swearing to get the second one out. If its pretty well siezed I would guess you will have the same difficulty as me. Mine would steer in first gear but in the higher gears would start to stall the machine. If its too far gone you may even have to cut the splined drum to get it apart i suspect. I almost got to this point before it finally came out.

    Yeh its a dry clutch setup so the dust make the job all the more pleasant.

    good luck and let us know how it goes.

  11. #26
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    Why does komatsu have such a huge forum and mitsu has such a small one? As far as i can tell mitsu is the superior dozer. Just not the parts support here in the states. I would love to see a ot more mitsu posts

  12. #27
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    I have a bd2h dozer that i will be replacing the steering clutches and replacing the brake band friction discs as soon as i get my service manual in, just wanted to see if anyone had any pointers? I was going to do it without the manuals, but quite frankly i was stumped as best as i can figure the clutch pack is inside the drum that the brake band grips? Also can anyone tell me what the last letters in the dozer number means? Such as g , h , j?

  13. #28
    Senior Member JimInOz's Avatar
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    Hi JeremyH72,
    The Mitsubishi letters started at the BD2A & progressed thru to the J series,which were the last made with the Mitsubishi badge.
    The BD2 were bulldozers & the BS3 were Bulldozer-Shovels.
    There was also a BS6 made,which is a little larger than the ones you generally see .
    Mitsubishi crawlers were sold in Australia up until the F series in the 80s.
    There is also a few Ag crawlers here ....like the 5 tonne FA 80.

    Your H series is the second-last made & is more modern than some of the early machines.Some were equipped with a more versatile 8 way blade.

    Jim

  14. #29
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    Thanks for the info jim. Now just waiting for my manuals to get to work on the dozer. If anyone needs any info out of them let me know. I ordered the operators , service and both parts manuals( engine and drivetrain). I will try to help any way i can.

  15. #30
    Senior Member amunderdog's Avatar
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    All i can tell you about the BD mitsubishi is to check your side boxes.
    Large square panel just below where you step into cab.
    All your hydraulics go into the right one some into the left.
    They do not drain well and will fill with wet dirt (mud) eventually rotting out the hard lines within.
    Just takes a few minutes to pull the cover and hose it all out occasionally.

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